I did my valve check on my 2020 ATAS at the start of December. Its a right old faff. 1st order of business off with the seats.
Then lower the crash bars and remove the fork tunnel and side panels.
Off with the tank, one screw, fuel line, two electrical connectors and two vent pipes.
Then off with the airbox, couple off clips to the throttle body 3 or 4 bolts and a few vent pipes. Then the throttle bodies two clips and several electrical connectors.
Then off with the pair solenoid and coil tray.
Two piles of parts.
Fork tunnel side panels seat and horn (removed to get access to the bottom rad mount on the RHS throttle side radiator). Allows access to remove the rocker cover.
Throttle body, airbox Pair solenoid, tank, toolbox and coil tray.
Exposed valve gear.
Valve clearances were as follows.
Cylinder 1 Clutch side Cylinder two
Exhaust Exhaust
0.24 ish 0.23 in easy 0.25 no 0.23 Tight 0.23 went in but draggy 0.23 0.23 Spec is 0.23mm+/- 0.02mm
Inlet Inlet
0.16 Loose 0.18 0.16 0.16 Spec is 0.16mm +/- 0.03mm
I was not going adjust anything as I want to see if the measurements have moved next time at 30-40K but I relented and made sure all of the exhaust valves were exactly 0.23mm. Your honda dealer would not have touched them as they are all in spec.
Fun fact.... the screw and locknut valve adjuster for the exhaust valves is the same tool as my old Honda lawnmower and generator PN 07708-003-0400
The only difficulty was connecting the short S shaped valve cover ventilation hose to the airbox when putting everything back together. I ended up attaching it to the airbox and lubing the inside of it with ACF 50. I put the sprung wire retainer over the valve cover connecting stub, pressed the airbox down into position and manovered the hose over the valve cover connecting stub (coil tray is sort of in the way) with long nosed pliers. Then used said pliers to compress the sprung wire retainer and lift it up over the hose then push the hose down over the stub to the top of the valve cover. About a 45min delay working that one out.
Then lower the crash bars and remove the fork tunnel and side panels.
Off with the tank, one screw, fuel line, two electrical connectors and two vent pipes.
Then off with the airbox, couple off clips to the throttle body 3 or 4 bolts and a few vent pipes. Then the throttle bodies two clips and several electrical connectors.
Then off with the pair solenoid and coil tray.
Two piles of parts.
Fork tunnel side panels seat and horn (removed to get access to the bottom rad mount on the RHS throttle side radiator). Allows access to remove the rocker cover.
Throttle body, airbox Pair solenoid, tank, toolbox and coil tray.
Exposed valve gear.
Valve clearances were as follows.
Cylinder 1 Clutch side Cylinder two
Exhaust Exhaust
0.24 ish 0.23 in easy 0.25 no 0.23 Tight 0.23 went in but draggy 0.23 0.23 Spec is 0.23mm+/- 0.02mm
Inlet Inlet
0.16 Loose 0.18 0.16 0.16 Spec is 0.16mm +/- 0.03mm
I was not going adjust anything as I want to see if the measurements have moved next time at 30-40K but I relented and made sure all of the exhaust valves were exactly 0.23mm. Your honda dealer would not have touched them as they are all in spec.
Fun fact.... the screw and locknut valve adjuster for the exhaust valves is the same tool as my old Honda lawnmower and generator PN 07708-003-0400
The only difficulty was connecting the short S shaped valve cover ventilation hose to the airbox when putting everything back together. I ended up attaching it to the airbox and lubing the inside of it with ACF 50. I put the sprung wire retainer over the valve cover connecting stub, pressed the airbox down into position and manovered the hose over the valve cover connecting stub (coil tray is sort of in the way) with long nosed pliers. Then used said pliers to compress the sprung wire retainer and lift it up over the hose then push the hose down over the stub to the top of the valve cover. About a 45min delay working that one out.
