Classic Bikes and Dolomites

Day 8 - Cortina D'Ampezzo to Lake Garda

Last night over dinner I'd booked myself into the Hotel Sole on Lake Garda in Limone sul Garda so that was the destination for today via a couple more passes, I really do love this part of the world.

I left the hotel Da Beppe Sello just after 9:30 and the SatNav was telling me I'd be in Lake Garda by 1pm. Unlikely, because I had no intention of following its advice for a while with both the Passo Pordoi and Passo Sella on the itinerary first. I could have punched these into the SatNav but I'm enjoying just going point to point and making it up as I go along. It might take a bit longer than a well planned route in Basecamp but I prefer things this way. I've been over to France plenty of times on the bike and done Northern Spain on the bike many years ago but I've never done what I guess you'd call a European tour before. I'm pleased with how my approach is working out. Given a clearly mapped out route up front I might have got to see a bit more of the place but I'm happy to have to return!

Farewell Cortina



But all is not lost



Falzarego first although I'd done this one in the other direction on the way in a few days earlier, still spot on though. A quick stop at the top for some pointless tat (gifts for the kids) and I was away and heading up Pordoi. Lots of undulation and camber changes on the ascent made this one particularly good fun.

It was around 11am when I reached the top and given the easy schedule for the day decided to stop at the cafe for some tea and apple struddle.



Not too much more land left up here



Once again all quiet.



After Pordoi I decided to head up Sella even though I knew I'd only have to come back down the same way unless I fancied a real detour.



I nice couple of old ladies at the top.



Stickers and tat acquired from the shop I headed back down the say way I came up.



After the Pordoi and Sella I was still looking for opportunities for just one more pass as I really didn't want to leave the Dolomites behind yet. Although there was nothing stopping me from staying I also wanted to keep moving and as I've already said a few times there's always next year. Whenever I saw a road sign for a Pass I'd look at google maps on the phone to see if it was doable or in completely the opposite direction. Unfortunately after the Passo Sella they all were. Hopefully I'll be as lucky with the weather when I return next year.

Onward towards Lake Garda I passed through a beautiful town called Moena?. Whilst all of the alpine towns are picturesque in their own way this place was just off the scale, complete with of course it's own idilic lake





Erm no please, after you!



Feeling somewhat dejected as I knew the Dolomites were firmly behind me (dejected is a relative term here), my spirits were lifted as I hit what can only be described as motorcycling nirvana from the perspective of anyone that enjoys fast sweeping roads with a sufficient dose of technical. Or as Italy likes to call it the SS612. Dear god this was just divine, sweeping turn after turn along the side of the mountain. I looked at the satnav and a huge grin appeared on my face as I saw the next significant turn was in 16km heading into Trento, bring it on.

A quick stop on the SS612 for snaps and another water bottle top up.





It felt strange seeing Trento appear in the distance as this was the first city I'd seen since passing through Chur in Switzerland what seemed like a lifetime ago.



With the temperature rising I had a quick stop in Padergnone for a late lunch and coffee



Before heading on and getting my first glimpse of Lake Garda.



Unfortunately this was closely followed by a long queue of traffic to the hotel in 36 degrees. But we got there eventually.



The hotel is right on the promenade with vehicle access only permitted for offloading. However, as I pulled up one of the waiters from the hotel restaurant came out and directed me to park the bike up the side entrance to the hotel. A tight fit and a slightly dented pannier saved me a long walk in the heat. A small price to pay, along with the 5 euro tip.

41 euros for the night and not a bad view from my balcony!



After heading out for an evening stroll...





If this were the only source it would have taken a while to fill.





...before returning to the hotel restaurant for this.



And this.



A storm was brewing over the lake and within minutes we'd gone from bright sunshine to the owners quikcly hitting the button on the hugely impressive electric awning.



Over dinner I was giving some thought to where I was going next and found myself flat out of ideas. So I posted this http://www.ukgser.com/forums/showthread.php/429810-Some-on-the-road-advice-needed on here and JB came to my rescue pointing out that the Stella Alpina rally was happening this weekend, that'll do nicely!

So, Bardonecchia is my rough destination for tomorrow. Goodnight.

 
Day 9 Lake Garda to Oulx

After a half decent breakfast at the hotel I was away for 9:30 and thankful of it as the temperature was already 31 degrees.





The "coast" road around the lake was busy so I was pleased to finally get clear of the area. I certainly wouldn't want to be anywhere near this place in high season.



A quick break in the traffic



Today was a transit day to get me to Bardonecchia so nothing exciting with regards scenery. Having jumped onto the Autostrada I noticed the cruise control wasn't working. Frustrating but no big deal, I can certainly live without it. I then realised that the whole left cluster was knackered so no trip readings, ESA adjustment, lights or indicators. The latter I wasn't best pleased about so jumped off the AS to see if an on/off would maybe reset it. It was a long shot and this is what it turned out to be proving utterly useless.

I decided to use the Nav 4 BMW dealer listing to see if there was one nearby. Misani Motorrad just 5km away, that'll do nicely. I'll give them a try expecting they may at best be able to give it a squirt of contact cleaner. A long shot but nothing lost and at the end of the day I'm in Italy where nobody indicates anyway.

Anyway, upon arrival I'm greeted by a top bloke who speaks very little English but seems keen to help me out. To cut a long story short, after providing a copy of the V5 and extended warranty paperwork they had ripped the left hand switchgear off a brand new bike, fitted it to mine and waved me on my merry way within an hour and a half. Top service!

Back on the road and smiling at my shiny new switchgear



I schlepped across Italy to Bardonecchia stopping only for fuel of both varieties





This one was significantly better value than the 1.72 euro I paid for their unleaded. Next time I'll remember to check the price. :eek:

Somewhat unsurprisingly upon arriving in Bardonecchia there was no space at the inn due to being the weekend of the Stella Alpina. Whilst parked up checking my phone for accommodation I managed to knock my glasses off the tank bag and tread on them.



I decided to head over the border into France to find some digs but got immediately stuck at the tunnel (Bardonecchia is right on the border) due to a fire. Long day, I'm tired, this isn't going so well.



I left the bike in the queue and headed into the petrol station for some water. On the way back to the bike I asked someone in a high viz if I could do a u-turn in the customs area. He looked somewhat nonchalant to the idea so I jumped on the bike and headed to the front of the queue where he directed me into the customs area where I doubled back on myself and headed to the town of Oulx. I saw a sign for a municipal campsite and for the reasonable rate of 16.50 euros a night I was directed to my quarters.



I need to speak to the guy in charge tomorrow morning to see if I can get another night at this place. If I can I'll leave the luggage in the tent and have a look at the Stella Alpina. That should be "interesting".
 


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