Clutch bite point

[Bendy toy]

Brake fluid won't damage rubber so it's likely rubber is used in the seals. Mineral oil will rot rubber so it's likely they use different seal materials.
Best test is to drop a replacement seal into the oil for a few days. If it comes out unchanged its good to go.

 

[Joca]

Sounds good. I've sourced some syringes from work to remove some of the fluid and try again to find bubbles.

 

[Pukmeister]

Sounds good. I've sourced some syringes from work to remove some of the fluid and try again to find bubbles.

When Diplomatic Dannys' clutch went very soft whilst touring Southern France recently, we found his clutch hydraulic oil was black and dirty and the lever came back to the bars. We had cable tied the clutch lever the previous evening which only gave a temporary reprieve but it did prove a decent clutch feel was possible and led us to believe a fluid change/bleed was needed.

A litre can of green coloured LHM+ hydraulic fluid for Citroens (Vive La France!!) was bought at a supermarket on a Sunday morning for ten Euros and the team then assembled to flush/bleed his clutch in the car park, at which point we saw small bubbles rise in the reservoir. Once the old fluid was eventually flushed out of the bleed nipple on the slave cylinder, normal service was resumed. The bike then ran perfectly for the rest of the trip. (FWIW you won't find any Vitamol V10 fluid on a Sunday morning at a supermarket anywhere).

I suspect yours is probably a similar issue.

 

[Joca]

My fluid is green, beautiful crisp and clean.... (I almost put my tongue in it as it looked so tasty... )