K1300GT ABS pump failure

[Nin]

Hi all

My new to me ‘09 plate 1300GT has bricked its ABS pump - I’m consistently getting the 24048 pump motor defective and 24049 power supply to pump motor faulty codes.

I’ve tried hitting it with a hammer (srsly) and was quite motivated while doing so. But that hasn’t fixed it.

I recall there was a place that could repair the ABS unit, does that ring any bells with the cognoscenti?

Cheers aye!

 

[squibb34]

IIRC the ABS pump gets stuck, maybe lack of use & Ford Fiestas use the same inner works - I'm sure there was a thread on here somewhere if you delve into 'search'.

 

[nicholsonj2252]

I had the same issue on one of these a few years back and turned out to be a very simple fix , the biggest job was removing and reinstalling the ABS unit

I split the ABS motor off the unit and opened it up to find one of the brushes dislodged . I re-installed the brush , cleaned everything and put it back together and it ran fine with no error messages

Might be worth a punt before you send it off for repair


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[Nin]

I had the same issue on one of these a few years back and turned out to be a very simple fix , the biggest job was removing and reinstalling the ABS unit

I split the ABS motor off the unit and opened it up to find one of the brushes dislodged . I re-installed the brush , cleaned everything and put it back together and it ran fine with no error messages

Might be worth a punt before you send it off for repair


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Good call, ta. I’ll have a go at that


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[knutk]

Good call, ta. I’ll have a go at that


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If anyone has gets the urge to open the ABS unit, it is actually not a big deal, and there is nothing that will pop out and scare you.

This is the new generation of ABS units, and they are built just like what you will find in most cars.

It consist of three types og components. The aluminum block in the middle section is where you attach all the plumbing. This block is like a Swiss cheese, with several holes drilled into it. This is also where all the solenoids and hydraulic pump is located.
The solenoids are pushed into their respective holes, and from the outside it looks like a group og top-hats. Their only mission is to open and close a valve by moving a tiny pistion up or down.
The electronics are positioned in a separate housing, and a bounch of tubes are soldered to the circuit board. The tubes are actually coils that are pushed onto the tophats and thus operates the solenoids.
There are no wire connection between the circuit board and the solenoids.
All the software and Canbus signals are handled by the electronics, and there will be some contacts that connects the circuit board to the Alublock. This is power to the motor on the opposite side of the block, and also a pressure sensor that monitors the pump-pressure. Separating the electronics from the alublock is merely a matter of a gentle and careful pull... No springs, no surprise..

On the other side of the alublock the motor is pushed into it. It connects to the power plug, and there is an eccentric steel wheel attatched to the shaft that is pushed into the block and drives the pump.

The hydraulic pump is merely two opsing springloaded pistions with a checkvalve for each. Thus, when the pistion is pushed, it push brake fluid into the system, and when it pops out again by spring-force, the check valve allows it to refill the chamber. The eccentric wheel does the pumping, end it may be required to push the pump pistions apart when reasembling the motor.

All in all it's straight forward and no hidden quirks...

 

[DrFarkoff]

Hi all

My new to me ‘09 plate 1300GT has bricked its ABS pump - I’m consistently getting the 24048 pump motor defective and 24049 power supply to pump motor faulty codes.

I’ve tried hitting it with a hammer (srsly) and was quite motivated while doing so. But that hasn’t fixed it.

I recall there was a place that could repair the ABS unit, does that ring any bells with the cognoscenti?

Cheers aye!

I did a repair with this later system where in the end I changed out the ABS electric motor as thr brush guides must have been warped or something like that If your brushes are stuck and you free them it can happen again and I did it 3 times and got 20 miles and once you tried an emergency stop the Fail light came on a half mile later

After some research I replaced it with a Fiesta Mk9 ABS motor I think I still have part number somewhere

My advice is to do a motor swap its a much more sensible option and a more durable repair and 5 years later is still operating fine and has done a couple of tours to the continent, Alps etc etc

The motor is held in place by crimps in the alloy housing

I drilled in m5 holes and threaded them and fitted M6 studs nyloc nuts and half washers

I did the 4 corners but that was overkill all you want to do is hold the motor down into the machined square area to stop it spinning

Two would have been plenty

 

[Nin]

That’s very helpful Dr. If you could find the part no that would also be very helpful!

 

[Nin]

No need

It’s all in here:

Fixing ABS with Fiesta motor

On my 2008 GSA I have fixed the dreaded brake fail warning (non servo) a few times by cleaning and opening out the brush holders in the ABS motor. I am getting a bit tired with this now so am looking for a more permanent fix. I have acquired a late model ford fiesta ABS unit and removed the...

www.ukgser.com

 

[DrFarkoff]

No need

It’s all in here:

Fixing ABS with Fiesta motor

On my 2008 GSA I have fixed the dreaded brake fail warning (non servo) a few times by cleaning and opening out the brush holders in the ABS motor. I am getting a bit tired with this now so am looking for a more permanent fix. I have acquired a late model ford fiesta ABS unit and removed the...

www.ukgser.com

Not the part number though
Check this part Number 4-CV21-2C405 I seem to recall Mk 9 fiesta But that Number rings a bell

 

[Nin]

Thanks Dr.


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[Nin]

That’s for a Mk7 Fiesta. Plenty on eBay for £70 ish.

 

[DrFarkoff]

That’s for a Mk7 Fiesta. Plenty on eBay for £70 ish.

NI Phil had the photo buried in his messenger account

He sent it through this morning

The things that I would do different would be Not milling the surface flat an requiring me to make 4 half washers

Basically the motor slips into a milled square of which only the 4 corners remain and that is to retain it from spinning It is held in to these corners by a press crimp to deform the alloy

To get the ABS bushing in an out into the hole requires a spigot of the same size as the Motor shaft

This was the most awkward bit and you need to insert the bush at an angle on the spigot and get one plunger started and twist and rotate and it will go home a little bit of **rubber grease on the bush helped and a small dab of grease on the motor shaft end when reassembling Bush in first then the motor fitted after

**I was worried about mineral grease in the proximity of rubber seals

 

[Nin]

Cheers Dr. Here’s my experience of fixing this - pretty straightforwardly after all.

We started with this:



So on the good Drs advice I bought a Fiesta Mk7 ABS unit. See if you can guess which one it is?



But I’m getting ahead of myself.

First I took all the bodywork off, mainly because I’m also removing the shock absorbers to get them serviced.

The pump is front left, dead easy to get at.



Three nuts hold it to the chassis, four hoses incoming and a big multiblock connector to the ecu - which is easier to remove and refit with the abs unit off its mount. Very little fluid comes out when the hoses are removed so no drama there.

I cut away the pressed stakes holding the motor to the body, and prised it off, fitted the new one after I’d put a tiny but of grease on that roller bearing.

I held it in with some bars clamped down with short collar bolts I tapped into the alloy body of the unit.

 

[Nin]

The moment of truth - run a quick pump output test with the GS911 - bingo, everything works, no fault codes.



Job is, as they say, a good ‘un.

Took me about 3 hours all in, next one would be much quicker.