This post summarises my experience re the above. I was rather nervous taking on this job and widely researched previous advice before starting so I hope my experience is useful to others looking at this.
I detected slight movement on the rear wheel with hands at 3 and 9 o clock which remained with rear brake applied thus pointing to para lever wear rather than final drive bearing. These bearings are supposed to adjusted and greased as part of the service schedule but by the time movement occurs probably too late. The taper needle rollers are under heavy load and only move through a limited arc. In my case and seen elsewhere this creates dimples in the bearing race, introducing sideways movement and eventually the bearing race itself may turn on the locating pin as opposed to moving around the rollers. Replacement bearings are around £140 for the pair and not available through bearing factors only motorworks etc. It may be a design weakness and using up to date materials technology a replacement plain bearing in nylatron is available from the US for about £50. These are the nylager nushings with full details and positive application experience here
https://advrider.com/f/threads/bmw-paralever-pivot-bushing-replacements-nylager-nushings.1149024/
I decided to go this route because a) maintenance free b) easier to install c) possibly a better design d) work better with slightly worn bearing pins saving replacement cost with taper rollers and e) cheaper
There are two good you tube videos for this job that I watched a few times
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=L0_j8SuiFQI
and
https://www.youtube.com/watch?time_continue=6&v=5896qiDY6xc&feature=emb_logo
First issue when doing the job is removing the pivot pins which are very tight and loctited. The risk in just heaving on them is that you will damage the thread in the swing arm, or slip in the location entering a world of pain. I used a heat gun to heat the pins which avoids the risk of burning the rubber boot with a torch. I purchased an infrared laser temperature gun from ebay for £12 which told me when the pin was at 100 degrees c and both loosened without problem. No Loctite is used on re assembly with nushings
Next issues is removing the drive stub from the final drive. This was harder than it looked in the videos and to avoid damaging the casing make sure the bar to be malleted is braced against the thick part of the casing. DAMHIK
The old bearings drive out easily from the inside using the correct socket and extension shaft. I thought a lot about freezing bearings,heating the case in an oven, taking them to a garage with a press, not getting them in straight, damaging the nylatron with a mallet etc. In the end I bought a length of threaded bar and three nuts and washers (£8) .Lock two of the nuts together on the bar and pressed both bearings in simultaneously from two sides. the old bearings were used to press against the nushings for perfect contact. with no heating/ freezing it worked a treat.
The toughest part of the job is getting the final drive extension to relocate in the propshaft. in the videos and and on 1150's there is a master spline so the orientation is correct but not on the 1100's like mine. The propshaft and final drive shaft have to be phased so that ujs at each end are a mirror image. Photo and explanation is here
https://www.ukgser.com/forums/showthread.php/474436-Driveshaft-phasing?highlight=phasing
With the bike on the table it was reasonably easy to shine a torch down the and figure out the position of the propshaft, get the correct uj position at 1200 and then put the bike in gear to lock it in place. I then used the trick of wrapping a rag round the propshaft to hold it in the bullseye position in the casing. This is harder than it sounds you need to use plenty of thin rag push it well in behind the propshaft and still leave a thin tail you can pull out when finally locates. You can get a free finger through the mounting pin holes in the casing to help guide the final drive shaft into place. Support the final drive with a jack while doing this.Took me quite a while.
A good advantage of the nushings is that setting the torque on the adjustable pin is a simple matter of finding the point where the drive housing doesn't fall under its own weight. mark the position of the pin with a marker pen line onto the casing. As others said when tightening the adjustable pin locknut the pin did not move. Support the final drive when tightening to avoid pulling the bike over.
So it all went smoothly, the movement was completely eliminated and all should be good for my remaining mileage on the bike. Hope this helps others contemplating the job.
I detected slight movement on the rear wheel with hands at 3 and 9 o clock which remained with rear brake applied thus pointing to para lever wear rather than final drive bearing. These bearings are supposed to adjusted and greased as part of the service schedule but by the time movement occurs probably too late. The taper needle rollers are under heavy load and only move through a limited arc. In my case and seen elsewhere this creates dimples in the bearing race, introducing sideways movement and eventually the bearing race itself may turn on the locating pin as opposed to moving around the rollers. Replacement bearings are around £140 for the pair and not available through bearing factors only motorworks etc. It may be a design weakness and using up to date materials technology a replacement plain bearing in nylatron is available from the US for about £50. These are the nylager nushings with full details and positive application experience here
https://advrider.com/f/threads/bmw-paralever-pivot-bushing-replacements-nylager-nushings.1149024/
I decided to go this route because a) maintenance free b) easier to install c) possibly a better design d) work better with slightly worn bearing pins saving replacement cost with taper rollers and e) cheaper
There are two good you tube videos for this job that I watched a few times
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=L0_j8SuiFQI
and
https://www.youtube.com/watch?time_continue=6&v=5896qiDY6xc&feature=emb_logo
First issue when doing the job is removing the pivot pins which are very tight and loctited. The risk in just heaving on them is that you will damage the thread in the swing arm, or slip in the location entering a world of pain. I used a heat gun to heat the pins which avoids the risk of burning the rubber boot with a torch. I purchased an infrared laser temperature gun from ebay for £12 which told me when the pin was at 100 degrees c and both loosened without problem. No Loctite is used on re assembly with nushings
Next issues is removing the drive stub from the final drive. This was harder than it looked in the videos and to avoid damaging the casing make sure the bar to be malleted is braced against the thick part of the casing. DAMHIK
The old bearings drive out easily from the inside using the correct socket and extension shaft. I thought a lot about freezing bearings,heating the case in an oven, taking them to a garage with a press, not getting them in straight, damaging the nylatron with a mallet etc. In the end I bought a length of threaded bar and three nuts and washers (£8) .Lock two of the nuts together on the bar and pressed both bearings in simultaneously from two sides. the old bearings were used to press against the nushings for perfect contact. with no heating/ freezing it worked a treat.
The toughest part of the job is getting the final drive extension to relocate in the propshaft. in the videos and and on 1150's there is a master spline so the orientation is correct but not on the 1100's like mine. The propshaft and final drive shaft have to be phased so that ujs at each end are a mirror image. Photo and explanation is here
https://www.ukgser.com/forums/showthread.php/474436-Driveshaft-phasing?highlight=phasing
With the bike on the table it was reasonably easy to shine a torch down the and figure out the position of the propshaft, get the correct uj position at 1200 and then put the bike in gear to lock it in place. I then used the trick of wrapping a rag round the propshaft to hold it in the bullseye position in the casing. This is harder than it sounds you need to use plenty of thin rag push it well in behind the propshaft and still leave a thin tail you can pull out when finally locates. You can get a free finger through the mounting pin holes in the casing to help guide the final drive shaft into place. Support the final drive with a jack while doing this.Took me quite a while.
A good advantage of the nushings is that setting the torque on the adjustable pin is a simple matter of finding the point where the drive housing doesn't fall under its own weight. mark the position of the pin with a marker pen line onto the casing. As others said when tightening the adjustable pin locknut the pin did not move. Support the final drive when tightening to avoid pulling the bike over.
So it all went smoothly, the movement was completely eliminated and all should be good for my remaining mileage on the bike. Hope this helps others contemplating the job.
