Scoots In The Sahara Ride Report

Asking a local man the way at a junction that wasn't supposed to exist, we found the road down into the Valley of liquid shite.....

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The road was variable with large amounts of mud in places....picking your line was essential but from time to time the battered Mercedes taxis or even more battered tractors forced some evasive action which became 'interesting' :rolleyes:

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Zoumi's not a big town but it was market day so the population had trebled..the smell of the market rose up the hill as we approached....

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As we moved into the market place, unsure of which road to take out of town, the slippery mud turned into a couple of inches of liquid effluent....wheels slipped and we paddled through it at walking pace amongst the throng.......

Jaq's small yet perfectly formed, so with her ikkle legs she had problems paddling- the look on her face when we got out of the market and worked out that we had to turn round and go back through the lake of shite was something to be scared of for a very long time :D

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We made it out again, all intact apart from for the loss of an umbrella :confused:

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As ever on the trip, we were the source of great amusement for the kids.....

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Realising that we were well short of our target Fes and it was getting on, we decided to head towards the main road at the next junction, and an hour later we rejoined the proper tarmac and picked up speed.

Running very short on fuel though (the C90's tank only hold enough juice for 70 or so miles flat out and we were pushing on) we stooped at a cafe to find out where the nearest petrol station was and to have a coffee and pee break.....

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Lacking a toilet, we were again struck by the local's friendliness as the local schoolteacher came out of the village school next to the cafe and let us use the school loos......stopping on the way out we were introduced to a couple of classes of kids attheir lessons, amidst much giggling at the odd looking Europeans:D
 
A mile down the road, Dennis pulled over witha delicate wiggle of his back end and it became apparent he'd got a flat.

We got the wheel out, checked the tube in a puddle by the road and found the leak and tried to patch it with no success.......a second attempt had the same result then suddenly three GS's came over the hill and shot past us.

'They're Brits....and those are Civil's panniers !!!'

The bikes slowed and came back and we all grinned as we realised it was Errol, Jochen and Brian, three Irish Tossers on their own tour following the Paris-Dakar.

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Brian had some better kit on board and we set to having another go at repairing the tube.


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It worked, for a while, and as it was getting late and we were still a hundred KM short of Fes, the Irish lads very kindly offered to ride in with us and give us the benefit of their lights on the road.

10 miles further on we cam across a town with the ubiquitous tyre shop and an hour later the tube had been rubber welded properly and reinstalled in Dennis' scoot....at the princely sum of about £3.20 :D :cool:

We made Fes late in the evening and settled in for the night in a highly salubrious bar......

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The next morning we set off again and within a mile or so in Fes, we found a small scooter and bicycle repair shop where we bought some inner tubes, a small pump and the bits and bobs to go withh it all.

It seemed that the shop didn't actually keep anything in stock.....the owner sent a boy out to fetch the parts and it turned out they didn't keep any more than empty boxes on the shelves......the boy returned soon enough though and we were able to carry on towards Marrakesh to meet up with Speggo and Ian

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Whilst the rest of the crew where having fun with liquid excrement and later with punctures, Spego and I had to sit around for two days in a town with no beer :eek:
Good job we managed to rescue a couple of boxes of wine out of the van. Even cheap Spanish plonk in a box tastes good when nothing else is avaliable :thumb

At least it gave us time to explore the older parts of Chefchaouen
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And do the "get ripped off as a tourist" bit in the Souk
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Finaly the van was fixed and we were on our way to catch up the rest of the team in Marrakech.
Unfortunately it was nearly dark by the time the van was fixed so we didn't get too far. Driving an overloaded van on narrow, twisty Moroccan roads at night is not fun so we decided to stop for the night, get an early start and hit Marrakech by tea time the next day.

The first town we found to stop in, Ouazzane, turned out to be an amazing experience.
As we drove in to town we had to almost stop there were that many people on the road. We thought we must have got there just as the local college had turned out but no, it was the same all through town. A seathing, writhing mass of people everywhere!
We decided to find the first exit out of the mayhem before we ran somebody over. That didn't turn out to be as easy as we hoped either. It was begining to look like we would never find a hotel when we chanced upon a local guy wanting to help us out.
Now being a pair of suspicious Westeners (me being somewhat more guilty than Steve) we didn't quite know what to make of the guy. He seemed genuine, but we had both heard too many stories of hustlers and robbers to be totaly relaxed about the situation.
Anyway, he took us to a hotel where we would not only have to park the van (complete with all the equipment and supplies) on the street, but around the corner out of sight!
Now my alarm bells were ringing fit to bust but still he seemed to be a genuine guy. He arranged a guard to watch over the van all night and insisted we go back to his house to meet his family and drink mint tea. A perfect distraction was my thought.
How wrong you can be sometimes, he was an excelent host. He showed us the best place in town to eat for next to no money. Then took us to his factory (read a small room with a loom and a space for storage) where he managed to sell us Jalabas, coats and blankets despite us already having bought similar in Chefchaouen. The difference being his prices were a 10th of what we had been ripped off for earlier. And I thought I'd done a good job of haggling :nenau

Next morning we were up and on the road before dawn. A few miles down the road we came accross a huge site of Roman remains
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See, I told you we were up early :D
The remains covered about 20 acres, with another 40 still waiting to be excavated.
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Back on the road to Marrakech and our two passengers decided they wanted to stop and check out the scenary

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We did'nt get to stop too often as we had a long way to go to meet the rest of the crew but couldn't resist a few shots as the sun dipped behind the Atlas mountains and lit up a remote farm

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At last, reunited with the rest of the tossers. Tents up and into the casbah for food and more shopping.

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Next morning and the Tizi-n-Test pass beckons

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See them thar little hills in the back ground? That's where we're heading, the first real test for the scoots, somewhere near 6000 feet at the top of the pass!
Stunning scenary on the way up combined with beautiful weather, it was'nt to last!!

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Getting colder...
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Once at the top we moved from glorious sunshine to freezing cloud, from half decent tarmac to hard packed dirt complete with ice patches. It looked like the downhill strech would be entertaining :D

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Once near the bottom of the pass we decided to make the first, of many, wild camp ofthe trip.
Bit rocky and a bit cold but it is always good to make camp where you choose not someone else..

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After a great night in the wilds it was heads down for the day to try and catch up with our schedual. We covered almost 200 miles today, not bad on 90cc scooters on rough roads.
Another night of wild camping ensued, this time with better weather and rapidly improving views....
Neil (on right in distance) checks out the campsite...

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A good night, talking rubbish, laughing at the sort of ridiculous conversations that only happen with a group of people in that sort of situation, drinking Bonnie Prince Rupert (Ethyl alcohol laced with Caramel flavouring that tried to pass itself off as Whisky but only cost £3.50 from the supermarket in Marrakesh)

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In the morning we were up early again and after packing up, did a fingertip search of the camp site to find a lost set of moulded earplugs.....miraculously we found them and Speggo's smile, along with the ability to listen to music on the long boring roads, was restored.

We set of the mile or so back to the road from the campsite.....Jaq seemed to be enjoying the off roading now and she bumped away across the rocks with lots of happy squeals :D
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A few miles down the road though, we came across one of the Plymouth Banjul vehicles on the roadside.

Stoppping to help, we gave them some help with some shorting wiring.

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On checking the oil in the Truck though, I noticed that the front of the engine was covered with Diesel...this matched up with a rather strong smell of fuel in the cab that I'd been smelling all morning and on further inspection, we foiund one of the injector pipes had worn through and was pissing diesel all over the engine bay.

With little chance of a roadside fix, we headed on the 20km or so to Tan Tan, the town so crap they named it twice.
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We found a small garage and they started stripping it down.

If you take an old truck in to a garage in England and ask them to fix it, the first thing they'd say is 'bring it back a week next tuesday mate and we'll have a look at it', then the following week you'd get a sharp intake of breath and a 'sorry mate, we'll have to order the parts, come back in a fortnight and we'll be able to fix it'....this would cost several hundred pounds if you were really lucky.

In Morocco, the lads just swarm all over the truck immediately, they say it'll be fixed and all you do is sit and wait.

It took four hours in total, but they stripped the tube out, brazed it up and replaced it........all for about £35 which we were very happy with. :bounce1 :bounce1 :clap

After its new radiator and the water pump bearing rebuild, the truck was getting newer and better as we went along, and we were actually happy as it meant we'd be delivering a decent vehicle for use at the Hospital.


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It wasn't a bad place to be stranded either, with a coffee shop and pleasant heat to bask in.

We did miss what would have been the best photograph of the trip though......as we sat there, a land rover went past with a full sized adult camel sitting in the back, its head and neck sticking out of the rear window looking around imperiously!!

We were all gobsmacked.....how on earth they'd managed to back a camel up and make it sit in the 'Rover was amazing, but they'd done it.

Sadly, nobody was fast enough with their camera and we missed it...........
 
After the full day lost getting the truck fixed again, we decided that a stay in Tan Tan and a pre-dawn start would be sensible, so using the Lonely PLanet guide again, Dennis, Chippy and Speggo found a local and very comfortable hotel for the night, as well as scoring some phone chargers for pennies from one of the local stores.

We had a good night walking around the town and a nice meal, and were rather surprised when it started raining late on.......this close to the Sahara proper it wasn't expected but at least it'd keep the dust down the next day.

Some of the team took the oppurtunity to get kitted out in proper local style :D

Hmmm.......Presbyterian Jedi am I :D
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Hmmmm...happy Jedi am I :D
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It was still wet when we got up early the next morning to leave Tan Tan.

Neil stayed there, intending to turn east and ride back up towards the south side of the Atlas mountains.....

His ride report from when he left us;

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The TITS kept heading south though, through the damp desert until we came across a section of roadworks.

Hitting a rather long stretch of very large undulating bumps, Paul was thrown spectacularly over his handlebars and landed in a messy heap all tangled up with his bike.....bruised and battered, he didn't have any broken bones but was rather shaken up and from there on sported a very swollen and painful hand. :(

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Our two special guests seemed to be enjoying the trip still.....they got to drive, ride and now it was getting slightly warmer, were smiling more :D


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Riding down the Atlantic coast, we saw plenty of rotting ship hulks and some spectacular clifffs, but the road was rather boring flat tarmac with the occasional dip and curve to round a wadi.

We finally camped as the sun was going down, on top of a hundred metres of cliff overlooking the sea.

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Charles went back into the last town we'd passed, Boujdour, a newish place built to extend Morocco's territorial clainms further into the disputed Western Sahara.

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That's enough for now........


We have a book out......wonderfully produced by Dennis, it's full of glossy colour pictures and tells the whole story from his point of view as written in his daily diaries......

All proceeds from the book will go to the Bansang Hospital fund......this ride report will be continued but our focus for a while must be to sell as many copies of 'Scooters In The Sahara' as all proceeds will go to finish the mission that we promised to do in Bansang.

When we started the trip, we never thought we'd be coming back with a mission to complete........you can read more about it in the book, but this is what we released as a summary and why the book and its sales are so important;


Bansang Hospital Wall Project


On January 18th 2006, 8 riders from the UKGSer motorcycle group took a tour of Bansang Hospital, 200 miles upriver from Banjul in The Gambia.

We’d delivered 10 scooters for the use of the Doctors and health workers, donated by UKGSer and friends, along with a 7 Tonne Mercedes truck for use as an ambulance and general transport.

Also delivered were two tonnes of medical supplies, including a defibrillator, blood pumps, medicines and tools, spares for the scooters and a donation to cover a service contract for the scooters.

We’d been prepared to find the place in a poor state of repairs, with hardly any equipment, poor sanitation and decaying buildings, so we weren’t too shocked to find exactly that and asked questions about what we could do in the week we had to work there.

Two hours later however, we were all shocked into silence when we were escorted out onto a large dry mud field backing onto the hills behind Bansang, and were told it was where they buried the babies.

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As you can see from the picture, it’s a sad and dirty place…goat faeces litters the whole area as is to be expected in a place open to the bush, and small pieces of cardboard with rocks on top are spread all over the area.


We asked about the cardboard…..

Each piece marks a grave, and the rocks are piled on top to try and stop the Hyenas from coming down every night and taking the bodies.

It isn’t working.

We walked away from the place in silence, no one making eye contact with anyone else in case the tears came.


The second most shocking thing we saw at the hospital was small herds of goat and a couple of cattle wandering through the place- with nothing to stop them, they roam wild and often wander into wards where procedures are being performed, defecating outside buildings and spreading disease.

We asked about building a wall around the area…there are already the remains of the old wall from the hospital’s colonial past, and it’s continued around the back of the nearby staff quarters.

We were told about a nurse who died just before Christmas in the rainy season after stepping on a snake that had come down from the hills behind the area, and how staff were afraid to leave their quarters at night because of the wild dogs and hyenas.


Before we left Bansang, we commissioned a quote for the building of a proper brick wall around the rear of the hospital- we stipulated that it had to be high enough to stop the goats and strong enough to survive the rainy season and be a permanent end to the wild roaming of the scavenging animals, including the hyenas…it will be 329 metres long and join up with the old wall, run behind the baby cemetery and link up with the existing wall behind the staff quarters.

The quote is attached on the last page, and as you can see only comes to £8652.66
(The D- Dhalasi sign should be a £)

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With inflation (rife in Gambia) the bill will probably rise to around £9,000, which is what the team who went have pledged to raise, with the help of UKGSer and as many sponsors as we can find.

We already have some of the money, but any help you can give will be greatly appreciated.

UKGSer Bansang Hospital aid team.






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Scoot Book

Bill

where and how can I get/pay for a copy of the book sorry if I missed the answer to these Questions on the thread.

Fantastic cause :thumb , Best of luck with the Sale of the Book

K
 
Klinger said:
Bill

where and how can I get/pay for a copy of the book sorry if I missed the answer to these Questions on the thread.

Fantastic cause :thumb , Best of luck with the Sale of the Book

K

Just click on the banner in my signature line ;)
 


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