I don't think anyone has ever found a cure.
I personally think the best rear brake is the engine.
Knock it down a gear, clutch out and a squeal from the back tells you its worked
Going back in time?
- Thread starter Jon P
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I don't think anyone has ever found a cure.
I personally think the best rear brake is the engine.
Knock it down a gear, clutch out and a squeal from the back tells you its worked
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I don't think anyone has ever found a cure.
I personally think the best rear brake is the engine.
Knock it down a gear, clutch out and a squeal from the back tells you its worked
What he said.
I rode one with the floating cam upgrade from HPN - still nothing like you would hope for what is a £200 upgrade. I found using the grippiest brake shoes and retaining the brake arm (not Touracrap cable replacement) and keeping it well adjusted was as good as it got.
I had two sets of wheels and found one was better than the other (better lining in one
)Other than that ride it to its capabilities/limitations and don't jump off a modern bike onto it and forget the brakes are erm.... different
If this is serious then I don't see the problem. Fly in, drive out. Quite a journey to remember I believe!
What are the details, I am interested.
But I assume the rear brake must work a little at MOT time or do you just have to find a sympathetic MOT tester ?
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It meets that criteria but with no weight and no speed it will provide the resistence necessary to pass as mine always did.
Loaded up with me on it even struggled to hold a stationary position on a ramp onto a ferry.
It does give some control when used in conjunction with the front brake as I found out when it stopped working briefly (brake pivot arm seized) and the difference was quite startling - go figure as they say
I'll second the above.
The rod operated rear brake on my 1988 80RT (Mono) was quite good. but the cable operated one on the 1989 100GS (Paralever) does very little in normal use.
In an emergency it will work - but that's when you have an "Ohhhh Shiiiiiit..." moment and stand on it, whilst bending the front brake lever
(North side of Loch Tay . . in the dark . . and a large deer suddenly appears from the waters edge in front of you. I got the back tyre to squeal, I was impressed - its never done that before
).
Bob.
The rod operated rear brake on my 1988 80RT (Mono) was quite good. but the cable operated one on the 1989 100GS (Paralever) does very little in normal use.
In an emergency it will work - but that's when you have an "Ohhhh Shiiiiiit..." moment and stand on it, whilst bending the front brake lever
(North side of Loch Tay . . in the dark . . and a large deer suddenly appears from the waters edge in front of you. I got the back tyre to squeal, I was impressed - its never done that before
).Bob.
I'll second the above.
The rod operated rear brake on my 1988 80RT (Mono) was quite good. but the cable operated one on the 1989 100GS (Paralever) does very little in normal use.
In an emergency it will work - but that's when you have an "Ohhhh Shiiiiiit..." moment and stand on it, whilst bending the front brake lever
(North side of Loch Tay . . in the dark . . and a large deer suddenly appears from the waters edge in front of you. I got the back tyre to squeal, I was impressed - its never done that before
Bob.
You sure it was the back tyre that squealed????
Why is it that the brake is so u/s. The g/s has a very good back brake and the design is similar, so why is one so much better than the other.. I know in my case the rear drum is a tad oval so difficult to set up right. I have seen a post, I think on this site about changing the angle of the cable by welding a lug in a different position, anyone else tried it? Surely with all the expertise on here we should be able to come up with something.
C'mon guys, Thinking caps on.
C'mon guys, Thinking caps on.
not tried any of this yet but thought I would :
- clean lining and shoes with something alcohol based to remove any shiny coating
- rough up the shoes with a file or wet and dry
- adjust the brake arm position so its vertical when it starts to bite in an attempt to get the best leverage
Judge - what do you think are the 'grippiest brake shoes' ?
Cheers
Mike
- clean lining and shoes with something alcohol based to remove any shiny coating
- rough up the shoes with a file or wet and dry
- adjust the brake arm position so its vertical when it starts to bite in an attempt to get the best leverage
Judge - what do you think are the 'grippiest brake shoes' ?
Cheers
Mike
i find the brakes ok but i dont ride my r100 very hard i have a big disk on the front with a brembo 4 piston caliper ..if i just ride the r100 all year then i dont think about the brakes but if i ride a modern bike then jump back on the r100 then i am like OMG the brakes are crap ....thats my 2p worth
I believe the trick is to make sure everything is clean and working correctly.
Then keep removing the wheel and file down the contact spots on the shoes.
Keep doing this until the contact is even across and around both shoes.
I haven't bothered, but I have noticed that the contact is only on a relatively small percentage of the shoe area.
Bob.
Then keep removing the wheel and file down the contact spots on the shoes.
Keep doing this until the contact is even across and around both shoes.
I haven't bothered, but I have noticed that the contact is only on a relatively small percentage of the shoe area.
Bob.
Sylvester
Registered user
Now I'm used to it I don't find the lack of rear brake a problem on my GS. But then I ride like Mary Popins on prozac these days. The worst problem is when you ride another bike. A delicate prod of the back brake on another bike with grown ups brakes may lead to a sudden need to change your underpants.
bumpmuncher
Registered user
best way to break the glaze on it is 80 grit paper or rougher on the shoes and drum and dont breathe the dust. then adjust it untill you can just hear the shoe just touching the drum when you turn the wheel then back it off half a turn. thats what works for me and i dont think the back brake is that bad unless it has glazed up. just my 2p Bm
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Big Jets
Registered user
I agree with Bianchi on this point,the brakes are ok till you jump on somit modern ,Ive been rideing my G/S all the time neglecting my 1100 ,decided to take her out last week ,let the clutch out and nearly went through a hedge ,when I got her out on the road it was gorgeous and smooth and effortless ,but the Airheads got the X factor and I love it.
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And....hopefully...should finish the crazy paving path just after the East Midlands bash...I hate rushing a job
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Come on folks - enough on the rear brakes! I was looking for some words of encouragement, the joys and benefits of riding the simpler GS.......one you can look after yourself and play with a bit.
Maybe some pros / cons based on experience of others that have had late oilheads and swapped or even supplemented their diet with an older 2 valver......
Maybe some pros / cons based on experience of others that have had late oilheads and swapped or even supplemented their diet with an older 2 valver......
As the owner of eight airheads, I'd have no other.
My 80g/s is a dream to ride and does everything I want it to.
Cheap insurance cos it's like me
OLD !!
doddle to work on and NO it's not for sale
My 80g/s is a dream to ride and does everything I want it to.
Cheap insurance cos it's like me
OLD !!doddle to work on and NO it's not for sale
My R100GS paralever rear brake is superb !!
But it has only done 4K miles
But it has only done 4K miles
Sylvester
Registered user
My R100GS paralever rear brake is superb !!
But it has only done 4K miles
Ha! Thats like the Italian man married to a gorgeous bella but has to look at her mother everyday to see what he'll be married to in a few years. My back brakes Sh*t and will always be sh&te, yours can only go downhill (so to speak!).
