I thought that the air cooled boxer had steel bores??
so how did changing the engine oil make the gearbox improve?
I thought that the air cooled boxer had steel bores??
From what you describe the wearing away of the nickel has to be done without glazing. This link explained glazing pretty well to me.
http://coxengineering.sharepoint.com/Pages/Boreglazing.aspx
I don,t know if my bores are technically glazed or not - but it is clear that engine oil is getting past the partial seal and being burned.
Once you start your, obviously patented, de-glazing process how do you then get it to stop. Would doing the same but using some copaslip grease work?
That would be silly.
You need to wash the airbox and barrels out with sea water, preferably leaving it in overnight
If I parked the bike on the beach at low tide and left it there overnight, would that work?
I would obviously remove the fuel tank to stop the fuel being contaminated with cockles.
i think this whole 'won't get run in on synthetic' thing is utter bollocks. maybe it was put about by the oil companies to make out their £17 per litre wonder oil was actually worth the outlay? or maybe i'm just being cynical again?
Err......you wanna read that back to yourself again?
i think this whole 'won't get run in on synthetic' thing is utter bollocks. maybe it was put about by the oil companies to make out their £17 per litre wonder oil was actually worth the outlay? or maybe i'm just being cynical again?
The link you give is to a boat website and there is a huge difference between slow revving boat diesel engines and high revving bike petrol engines. For a start, most boat diesels are old designs made of cast iron and with the traditional honed bored. The CC oil specified for them is mineral and if instead you use synthetic you risk polishing the bores, Thats exactly what I did on my boat when we crossed biscay under engine ie 36 hours at a constant 2000 revs with semi synthetic in the sump. When I took the head off you could see a reflection on the cylinder walls as good as a mirror.
If the gs has nikasil bores then the oil required need not be mineral. And its highly unlikely that you ran in your bike engine at constant speed.
Being air cooled the boxer engine has wider tolerances in some areas to allow for wider operatng temperature variations. That in turn means its more like the older engines which routinely used more oil. If it is then filled with synthetic with a likely lower cold viscosity number you have a combination of thin oil and wide gaps when starting up. Suggest you put in 20/50 mineral and forget oil consumption until /unless it gets really silly ( my boat engine would go from full on the dipstick to empty in less than two hours running) or you are coming towards the end of the guarantee. Then claim.
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If I parked the bike on the beach at low tide and left it there overnight, would that work?
I would obviously remove the fuel tank to stop the fuel being contaminated with cockles.
Of course it would work. I hope that you have enough muscles to excavate it and haul it off the beach at the next low tide.
Whelk, good luck, let us know how you get on.
You'll need to take the plugs out to allow the water to get in properly. Cockles won't be a problem.
It's the piranhas you need to watch out for. You don't want them nibbling on your cockles..
I was thinking of strapping some lamb chops, Saltmarsh lamb of course, to the exhausts to draw the piranhas away.
I was also wondering if at 170000 miles my nicasal barrels would benefit that much from speeding up the running in process?
Brian
This has become ridiculous!!!!
Don't you realise that Piranha's are a fresh water species and won't survive in salt
Any half decent spanner monkey will tell you that you gotta use a barracuda
Wise up!
Neil
2013 GSA 2600 miles. Previously owned 2010 GSA 0- 18000 miles
Ran my 2010 in more gently than the new GSA but it only consumed 500 ml of oil between the first and 6k service. GSA was run in two up backwards and forwards over the penines and not sparing the horses. It has used 1500ml in the 1900 miles since first service ie 1L per 1267 miles. I am checking the oil regularly using the manual approved method but leaving on side stand for10 minutes after a long ride before putting on centre stand as this seems to be a better way of draining the oil cooler and gives higher readings as I am trying to be as optimistic as possible about usage.
Despite my efforts to give it a firm running in regime I am left with the irritating feeling that that bores are glazed to some degree. Rightly or wrongly I blaming this on the use of fully synthetic 15 50 castrol oil from new and after the first service. This is a fairly recent change by BMW and whilst it may boost their coffers and be a good solution for protecting higher mileage fully run in bikes I am less convinced that it is the best way to get it run in in a reasonable mileage and I don't see why this has to be 20k.
so what is the best way to speed up the glaze busting ? thrashing the nuts off it with this oil doesn't seem to be helping and just makes the consumption worse.
would you ask for a switch to a mineral oil ? I am about to embark on a tour which will take it up to 6k and think that mineral oil could be the way to go.
Aside from oil consumption are there any other ways of evaluating the degree of glazing eg compression test, colour of plugs ?
I know there will be those who think I should just suck it up and shove bucket loads of hard to obtain £15 a litre oil in it but I want to get those pistons rings scraping away the glaze and not have to wait 20k until this can stop bugging me.