Valve push rod replacement.

mspenz

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Maybe a stupid question but can I just undo both the bottom head nuts so that I can remove the push rods or is that likely to distort the head or should I slacken off all 4 evenly then re-torque as required?
I have an annoying 'tackity' ( not tappity ) noise from the left valve train, it was there last year but now seems worse after sitting idle for 4 months, starts after it's warm and seems to come in and out when at full temperature but when you put your ear to the cam cover it's there all the time & definitely rougher sounding than the right side (which has a nice even smooth whirring). Valve clearances are ok end float is at .010mm and as far as I can see looking down the tunnel using an inspection mirror and light the timing chain guides are ok, new style tensioner was fitted about 20k miles ago.
The noise seems up top and towards the rear of the valve train, I've removed the exhaust push rod and it seems ok but I haven't tried heating it up yet but I suspect the intake push rod but that's the one that needs both head nuts removed.
I'm checking simple stuff first and don't want to remove the head at the moment and seeing that tolerances are good the push rods are next to check.

2 replacement used one piece rods are on the way from M/Works to try.

:nenau
 
maybe worth buying cam chain tensioner upgrade kit for you bike
 
Kenny Rodkiss said:
Might be of help, http://www.ukgser.com/forums/showthread.php/403599-Top-End-Knock
Click to expand...

Thank's, I have read this already but it doesn't help much unfortunately. I'm going to take the inlet rod out once the spares arrive and I'll temporarily put the front lower head nut back on with the bearing cap off ( using a couple of copper washers so that nothing gets marked ), that way there will always be 3 head nuts torqued at one time.
If it's not the push rods then I'll have to dig deeper but it isn't a 'heavy noise' so I'm hoping it's something simple and more importantly, not too time consuming or expensive as I struggle with both of those at the moment!
 
mspenz said:
Thank's, I have read this already but it doesn't help much unfortunately. I'm going to take the inlet rod out once the spares arrive and I'll temporarily put the front lower head nut back on with the bearing cap off ( using a couple of copper washers so that nothing gets marked ), that way there will always be 3 head nuts torqued at one time.
If it's not the push rods then I'll have to dig deeper but it isn't a 'heavy noise' so I'm hoping it's something simple and more importantly, not too time consuming or expensive as I struggle with both of those at the moment!
Click to expand...

have you bought new push rods if so were from thanks
 
moonhead911 said:
have you bought new push rods if so were from thanks
Click to expand...

Not new but used one piece rods from Motorworks at £12 each, spanking new would have to be from BMW but as I'm just doing a bit of trial & error at the moment I figured that the used one piece versions would suffice :thumb
 
mspenz said:
Not new but used one piece rods from Motorworks at £12 each, spanking new would have to be from BMW but as I'm just doing a bit of trial & error at the moment I figured that the used one piece versions would suffice :thumb
Click to expand...

iv looked on mw i couldn't fined them can you send me a link thanks
 
moonhead911 said:
grate thanks do they only sell used.
Click to expand...

Yeah, not enough demand for new so they don't stock. They aren't really a wear part (except from the ali/steel rods) so there isn't enough demand for them to keep stock, the only problem with the early rods being that the steel tips can occasionally detach from the aluminium body and cause that pesky kakkle noise..
 
mspenz said:
Yeah, not enough demand for new so they don't stock. They aren't really a wear part (except from the ali/steel rods) so there isn't enough demand for them to keep stock, the only problem with the early rods being that the steel tips can occasionally detach from the aluminium body and cause that pesky kakkle noise..
Click to expand...

thanks ill give them a call
 
I must admit that I was doubtful when I looked at the old rods as they both looked good and had no sign of any wear but once I applied a little heat this happened !



Didn't take much for one end to slide out holding it with pliars and mole grips, you can see the marks on the other end where I tried to get it to move but it wouldn't budge, same goes on the other rod (ends don't move).
This is the inlet pushrod and the one I suspected but I think that was more of a lucky un-educated guess..hey. there's loads of bits moving around in there that can cause noises :rolleyes:

New used one piece parts fitted, end float and valves adjusted, start up...quiet & sounding nice and even on both sides, quick balance check..tiny adjust at idle, open beer and feel warm & fuzzy :D
 
I am afraid I'd have to take this move of yours. Before that, how are you sure that the noise is not coming from a faulty cam chain rail? I asked because that's my next bet and I wish dearly it's not. And looking thru Chris H. video, do you really need to remove the whole cylinder block to get to and replace the push rods? I figured i don't have to, did you?
 
pharme said:
I am afraid I'd have to take this move of yours. Before that, how are you sure that the noise is not coming from a faulty cam chain rail? I asked because that's my next bet and I wish dearly it's not. And looking thru Chris H. video, do you really need to remove the whole cylinder block to get to and replace the push rods? I figured i don't have to, did you?
Click to expand...

Hi. There's a good chance that your noise isn't coming from the cam chain guide but if you aren't sure get a mechanical ear to have a listen first before doing anything.
The pushrod noise is quite 'tackity' and it seems to come in and out once the engine warms up, I could hear mine while riding the bike and with earplugs in! I don't know what a broken chain guide sounds like.
The head doesn't have to come off but 2 head nuts have to be undone, you can nip one back up temporarily until the inlet rockers are removed but no one came back to me to say if this would be ok (how I done it), maybe an idea to slacken off the other head nuts by 90 degrees..I don't know.

Don't spend too much time on the American pages as they tend to over analyse everything & get obsessed with the little things, instead have a read of some of Steptoes' findings as they are informative and to the point, he also has a relatively simple way of replacing the chain guide without splitting the engine..

Can you perhaps post a Youtube video recording the noise, that way some of the more experienced mech heads lurking here can have a listen and voice an opinion ?

:thumb
 
At a rough guess you are only about just over 2 hours from Mikeyboy at Melton Mowbray? Maybe worth getting over there and let him have a listen :D
 
hi mspenz, I'll fix up a video once I find some good quiet period to do the recording. It's not that annoying at this stage, I have to say. I just am motivated to wrench the bike and aim to 'perfect it'. You have misunderstood, I am based in Singapore. Berkshire is a shipper's address I used, should I need to make purchases from inmates here.
 
Nippy Normans supply Touratech, Wunderlich, Desert Fox and many other makes of accessories.
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