To fit Renthal handlebars and retain the OEM bar end weights.
For anyone who can’t get on with the “sweep” of the original cowhorn bars, but is concerned about the vibration without fitting the bar ends.
I used a set of Renthal 608 Fatbars, which used to grace a mates KTM. The choice is fairly comprehensive, and I may change them in the future, depending on how I get on with these. The bar ends are bolted into an insert in the ends of the bar. A helicoil, or thread repair kit, from a decent automotive supplier is all that’s needed. The original thread is 12mm x 1.5 (1.5 being the thread pitch) with a drill size (internal diameter of the bars) of 12.5mm. As my supplier only had a kit for 12 x 1.75 in stock, I bought two new bolts of 1.75 pitch, rather than wait.
The bar ends provide 60mm of the total handlebar width under the grips, so I duly cut 30mm off each end of the Renthals. If you want wider bars, cut less off each end. Be aware that if you make them any narrower, you will have problems fitting the levers.
The kit comes with a tap to cut the threads in the ends of the bars, and being aluminium, they do cut easily. Make sure they are straight though, as the bar ends need to be in line, especially on the throttle side. Once the thread is cut, a quick blast from an airline will shift any debris, and then the insert can be screwed in using the tool provided in the kit. Once in place, check the bolt goes into the thread easily, and you are ready to fit them on the bike. Don’t worry about drilling the holes for the left-hand grip just yet.
An assistant is useful here, I didn’t have one, but it would be so much easier and quicker with another pair of hands. First, remove the bolts from the bar ends, take off the handguards and the bar ends themselves, and snip all the cable ties holding the wires to the bars. Undo the clamps holding the bars, so that you can move the bars from side to side. This is where the assistant comes in, to hold the bars rather than let them hang off the wires. On the left-hand side, the whole grip/control assembly is held to the bar by two screws accessible under the thumb flange on the grip. After removing these, undo the two bolts holding the mirror/clutch lever together, taking care that the clutch lever/cylinder doesn’t fall, straining the wire that attaches it to the grip. You should then be able to slide the left-hand grip off as a unit, by moving the bars to the right to give enough slack in the wire and hose. I hung the clutch lever off my indicator while I did the other side. On the throttle side, there are two small torx screws holding the cover at the front of the twistgrip. With these removed, there is access to the single clamp screw, which holds the throttle/control assembly to the bars. Slacken this, remove the mirror/front brake lever bolts, and then do the same as on the other side, sliding the whole caboodle off the bars.
Place the new bars on the clamps, or in the hands of your assistant, and note the huge difference in weight. Slide the throttle/control unit onto the end of the bar, then refit the mirror/ front brake lever, but don’t tighten them up just yet. Repeat the process to re-fit the left-hand grip/control and mirror/clutch lever, but again, don’t tighten. Fit the handlebar clamps, just tight enough to hold the whole thing in place, then step back and check all cables, hoses and wires are in roughly the right place. Check that the bars are at the angle you want in the clamps before proceeding. There isn’t really a “correct” angle, just the one that you want, but it is better to have it as near right now than later. Make a small index mark against the clamps, to help later. Offer the bar ends into the grips, to ensure that they will tighten up without fouling, especially on the throttle side. When you are happy, tighten the throttle clamp, ensuring that the angle of the indicator switch is where you want it. A small tab off the throttle locates the lever/mirror mount. I personally don’t like this, and have cut it off so that I can angle the levers independently of the grips. Do the same with the left hand grip, ensuring that the indicator switch is in line with the right, if you want the job to look professional, then mark the position of the two screw holes on the bar. Remove the left hand assembly, as previous instructions, reclamp the bars, and drill the 3mm holes for the fixing screws where marked. I didn’t fancy drilling them with the grip in situ, in case any swarf got under the rubber and interfered with the heated grips. The screws are self-tappers, but I ran them through first, then blasted through the bar with the airline again. Refit the grip/control and mirror/clutch lever assembly and tighten. Replace the hand guards, bolt on the bar ends and check again that all cables etc. are in the right place. Turn the bars from lock to lock to ensure there is no trapping, cable tie the wires back on, tighten all bolts, and voila!
Mark
For anyone who can’t get on with the “sweep” of the original cowhorn bars, but is concerned about the vibration without fitting the bar ends.
I used a set of Renthal 608 Fatbars, which used to grace a mates KTM. The choice is fairly comprehensive, and I may change them in the future, depending on how I get on with these. The bar ends are bolted into an insert in the ends of the bar. A helicoil, or thread repair kit, from a decent automotive supplier is all that’s needed. The original thread is 12mm x 1.5 (1.5 being the thread pitch) with a drill size (internal diameter of the bars) of 12.5mm. As my supplier only had a kit for 12 x 1.75 in stock, I bought two new bolts of 1.75 pitch, rather than wait.
The bar ends provide 60mm of the total handlebar width under the grips, so I duly cut 30mm off each end of the Renthals. If you want wider bars, cut less off each end. Be aware that if you make them any narrower, you will have problems fitting the levers.
The kit comes with a tap to cut the threads in the ends of the bars, and being aluminium, they do cut easily. Make sure they are straight though, as the bar ends need to be in line, especially on the throttle side. Once the thread is cut, a quick blast from an airline will shift any debris, and then the insert can be screwed in using the tool provided in the kit. Once in place, check the bolt goes into the thread easily, and you are ready to fit them on the bike. Don’t worry about drilling the holes for the left-hand grip just yet.
An assistant is useful here, I didn’t have one, but it would be so much easier and quicker with another pair of hands. First, remove the bolts from the bar ends, take off the handguards and the bar ends themselves, and snip all the cable ties holding the wires to the bars. Undo the clamps holding the bars, so that you can move the bars from side to side. This is where the assistant comes in, to hold the bars rather than let them hang off the wires. On the left-hand side, the whole grip/control assembly is held to the bar by two screws accessible under the thumb flange on the grip. After removing these, undo the two bolts holding the mirror/clutch lever together, taking care that the clutch lever/cylinder doesn’t fall, straining the wire that attaches it to the grip. You should then be able to slide the left-hand grip off as a unit, by moving the bars to the right to give enough slack in the wire and hose. I hung the clutch lever off my indicator while I did the other side. On the throttle side, there are two small torx screws holding the cover at the front of the twistgrip. With these removed, there is access to the single clamp screw, which holds the throttle/control assembly to the bars. Slacken this, remove the mirror/front brake lever bolts, and then do the same as on the other side, sliding the whole caboodle off the bars.
Place the new bars on the clamps, or in the hands of your assistant, and note the huge difference in weight. Slide the throttle/control unit onto the end of the bar, then refit the mirror/ front brake lever, but don’t tighten them up just yet. Repeat the process to re-fit the left-hand grip/control and mirror/clutch lever, but again, don’t tighten. Fit the handlebar clamps, just tight enough to hold the whole thing in place, then step back and check all cables, hoses and wires are in roughly the right place. Check that the bars are at the angle you want in the clamps before proceeding. There isn’t really a “correct” angle, just the one that you want, but it is better to have it as near right now than later. Make a small index mark against the clamps, to help later. Offer the bar ends into the grips, to ensure that they will tighten up without fouling, especially on the throttle side. When you are happy, tighten the throttle clamp, ensuring that the angle of the indicator switch is where you want it. A small tab off the throttle locates the lever/mirror mount. I personally don’t like this, and have cut it off so that I can angle the levers independently of the grips. Do the same with the left hand grip, ensuring that the indicator switch is in line with the right, if you want the job to look professional, then mark the position of the two screw holes on the bar. Remove the left hand assembly, as previous instructions, reclamp the bars, and drill the 3mm holes for the fixing screws where marked. I didn’t fancy drilling them with the grip in situ, in case any swarf got under the rubber and interfered with the heated grips. The screws are self-tappers, but I ran them through first, then blasted through the bar with the airline again. Refit the grip/control and mirror/clutch lever assembly and tighten. Replace the hand guards, bolt on the bar ends and check again that all cables etc. are in the right place. Turn the bars from lock to lock to ensure there is no trapping, cable tie the wires back on, tighten all bolts, and voila!
Mark
Thanks!
