Bevel bearing or paralever bearing ? easy check

Steptoe

What a waste.
UKGSer Subscriber
Joined
Oct 12, 2003
Messages
65,673
Reaction score
1,674
Location
S/W London.
After the spate of bevel bearing posts - had a couple of worried calls ( one turned out to be paralever bearings, waiting to hear from the other) - read on .


If you've got play in your rear wheel, it's not always the bevel output bearing, it could be play in the paralever pivot bearings, it can be difficult to tell between the two -

check which it is, by putting the rear brake on, and then feeling for play with the brake applied - if it still moves, it's the paralever bearings - if no play, it'll be the bevel bearing.

The paralever bearings can be adjusted, if caught early enough, but if they've had play for along time, chances are the bearings are U/S - use marine grease if just lubing them or renewing.

* The bevel bearing can be U/S without giving any play, so don't think just because it's noisey or graunchy, but there's no play, that it's OK *
 
Good Advice Steptoe. Had to adjust my Paralever bearing about 2K ago at 12k. Seems to be Ok now. Still check every week for pay mind! :)
 
Steptoe,
Can you tell me more about how to adjust the paralever bearings? Does the adjustment consist of re-tightening the bearings? Do I need to heat the bolts to loosen any loctite before attempting to tighten them?
Thanks!
 
TODAY

Thanks so much for your advise today Steptoe.

For the benefit of others...

I suspected at first play at the rear wheel was a worn bevel bearing ( the 1150 has covered 40K miles).
After jamming a bit of wood against the rear brake lever play was still detected. This indicated that the paralever bearing needed adjustment.

With the wheel still on I used a marker pen to mark the position of locknut, adjuster in relation to the housing.
A 30mm socket to slacken the locknut.
A good quality 12mm allen key and extension bar.

Mine needed 1/4 of a turn clockwise to eliminate the play.
I did'nt use any heat but the adjuster was very feckin tight .

Easy peasy. Ta.
Oh and then the spare bearing and seals arrived in the post:rolleyes:

Tim
 
Re: TODAY

timolgra said:

Oh and then the spare bearing and seals arrived in the post:rolleyes:

Tim

Oh, I'd keep them - they'll come in handy one day...

Mike;)

ps - thought you'd appreciate this - found it on ADVRider - Daytona Bike Week, natch...:p

16802745-L.jpg
 
:D :D Lovely perhaps the paint job that Pint X is looking for

... bearing and seal are in the bottom of my pannier already

Tim
 
When I replaced mine I didn't use loctite. I just made a witness mark so I can see if nuts slacken off (they haven't yet). If the bearings develop play again I should now be able to adjust them with removing the wheel.
 
You had a lot more patience then.:augie:D

Not so many arseholes around. :D

Today i had someone come in because their dipped beam wasn't working. They'd fitted another bulb ( note i didn't say "new bulb") and it still wasn't working. So they told me they needed new switch gear or find a broken wire or do something or other it just needs fixing doesn't it.

"Did the new old bulb work ?" says i.

The customer says, raising his eyebrows "of course it does, i kept it as a spare in the box under the seat ".

"How long has it lived under the seat" says i.

"God, i don't know, a couple of years" says the customer.

"Lets try a new bulb shall we" says i.

I didn't say another word, just waved him off with a big smile as he rode off all dynamic and thrusting on his life journey.
Just another day in the world of a spanner monkey
 
Just a quick question, i also have some play in the paralever bearings, but it seems that i can't get it to disappear with retightening the nuts, the bearings look ok to me, no strange wear patterns or anything. The bolt that holds the inner cone of the bearing however seems a bit worn. Can this cause play on my bevel/rear wheel? is it common that these bolts, instead of the bearings cause the play?
 
Adjusting paralever bearing

Thanks so much for your advise today Steptoe.

For the benefit of others...

I suspected at first play at the rear wheel was a worn bevel bearing ( the 1150 has covered 40K miles).
After jamming a bit of wood against the rear brake lever play was still detected. This indicated that the paralever bearing needed adjustment.

With the wheel still on I used a marker pen to mark the position of locknut, adjuster in relation to the housing.
A 30mm socket to slacken the locknut.
A good quality 12mm allen key and extension bar.

Mine needed 1/4 of a turn clockwise to eliminate the play.
I did'nt use any heat but the adjuster was very feckin tight .

Easy peasy. Ta.
Oh and then the spare bearing and seals arrived in the post:rolleyes:

Tim

Just done mine:thumb2

2003 1150GSA with 39k miles.

There was only a little play and I reckon I also gave it about 1/4 turn.

Just wondering if it's easy to overtighten this. I tightened until there was no more play (only had a little to start with) but now I'm wondering if I over did it...
 
That's a joke - it takes 2 minutes to adjust them on a GS - you don't even have to remove the wheel. :D

So that's an hour's labour at a dealership then!

Took me about 10 mins without removing the wheel. 8 mins of that was trying to make sure I hadn't over tightened it:D
 
That's a joke - it takes 2 minutes to adjust them on a GS - you don't even have to remove the wheel. :D

I could probably do it in a few minutes now, having replaced the knackered originals and not used loctite when I put in the new bearings. I don't think I could have done so had I loctited the pins though.
 


Back
Top Bottom