£17000 worth of corrosion

mine has done 10,000 miles, no corrosion yet
 
Had 1 gs and 1 GSa neither had any corrosion problems (or other problems come to that) I must own up I do keep it clean , wash with good wash and wax and every so often give it a good wax.
I sometimes wonder if those who suffer corrosion problems contribute to there problem by using a detergent wash and not coating the bike with wax after, I have been i the motor trade for more years than i can remember and in
the early days before hand car washes you could tell a car has been owned by a lady because of the corrosion to the body work ,nine out of ten washed it with washing up liquid which removes any wax leaving the paint work open to the elements
also vans suffer the same mostly because there never waxed or looked after.
 
12,000 miles so far since picked up in Nov, ridden all through the winter no sign of corrosion yet.... it could well be hidden by the mud and crap from the winter roads..
It's due it's spring wash this weekend, let's hope once the muck is off it doesn't fall apart!
My 2006 GSA racked in 80,000 no issues, let see..
 
Had 1 gs and 1 GSa neither had any corrosion problems (or other problems come to that) I must own up I do keep it clean , wash with good wash and wax and every so often give it a good wax.
I sometimes wonder if those who suffer corrosion problems contribute to there problem by using a detergent wash and not coating the bike with wax after, I have been i the motor trade for more years than i can remember and in
the early days before hand car washes you could tell a car has been owned by a lady because of the corrosion to the body work ,nine out of ten washed it with washing up liquid which removes any wax leaving the paint work open to the elements
also vans suffer the same mostly because there never waxed or looked after.

Another scourge of bike washing is the dreaded Karcher pressure washer used by overzealous operators.
Most don't realise the power of high pressure water. It can remove the top surface from paint if used
incorrectly and in some cases it will remove the paint altogether.
Not to mention blowing water into bearing seals and electrics etc.
They're the work of the devil, I tell ya.:rob
 
Another scourge of bike washing is the dreaded Karcher pressure washer used by overzealous operators.
Most don't realise the power of high pressure water. It can remove the top surface from paint if used
incorrectly and in some cases it will remove the paint altogether.
Not to mention blowing water into bearing seals and electrics etc.
They're the work of the devil, I tell ya.:rob

Used correctly, they're fine. Don't get too close, and use a bit of common sense, and you won't have any issues. EVERY dealer (lots of manufacturers) that I've visited use one to clean theirs and their customers bikes.
 
Better off with an old or cheapo power washer and dont turn the tap on full
 
Another scourge of bike washing is the dreaded Karcher pressure washer used by overzealous operators.
Most don't realise the power of high pressure water. It can remove the top surface from paint if used
incorrectly and in some cases it will remove the paint altogether.
Not to mention blowing water into bearing seals and electrics etc.
They're the work of the devil, I tell ya.:rob

+1 agree

They can destroy rubber compound and it has been known to weaken tyre sidewalls. Up close they can act like a water scalpel.

If an operator finds a stubborn stain, its highly unlikely they put the jet blaster away and clean by hand.. they just go in closer with more power... until its gone...

Water pressure also can damage switchgear, electrical contacts, light seals, gaskets, bearings, side and centre stand hinge grease, in fact blows away any grease anywhere on bike.

Nasty evil things...

My pressure washer is assigned to garden cleaning duties only. Too damaging to go near a motorcycle.
 
Another scourge of bike washing is the dreaded Karcher pressure washer used by overzealous operators.
Most don't realise the power of high pressure water. It can remove the top surface from paint if used
incorrectly and in some cases it will remove the paint altogether.
Not to mention blowing water into bearing seals and electrics etc.
They're the work of the devil, I tell ya.:rob

Rubbish

Used correctly as Nutty says and they are fine

Been using them on my GS's for 25 years

No corrosion

No stripped paint or stickers

No premature bearing failure or blown fork seals
 
Another scourge of bike washing is the dreaded Karcher pressure washer used by overzealous operators.
Most don't realise the power of high pressure water. It can remove the top surface from paint if used
incorrectly and in some cases it will remove the paint altogether.
Not to mention blowing water into bearing seals and electrics etc.
They're the work of the devil, I tell ya.:rob

Lads are very careful steaming off wagon and plant now, too many sensitive electronics to push water the wrong side of electrical sockets.
 
Rubbish

Used correctly as Nutty says and they are fine

Been using them on my GS's for 25 years

No corrosion

No stripped paint or stickers

No premature bearing failure or blown fork seals

Yes but you have mechanical sympathy, common sense and a long term game plan.

Most 'born again bikers' havent got a clue how sensitive a bike is to high water pressure.
 
I'd rather use a regular hose pipe, rinse it over first, bucket and microfibre wash mit and get up close and personal.

It gives you an opportunity to inspect everything, and its a bit of excercise as well.

Not that you need all that at the end of a long day riding, but hey ho... has to be done.

:D
 
Another scourge of bike washing is the dreaded Karcher pressure washer used by overzealous operators.
Most don't realise the power of high pressure water. It can remove the top surface from paint if used
incorrectly
and in some cases it will remove the paint altogether.
Not to mention blowing water into bearing seals and electrics etc.
They're the work of the devil, I tell ya.:rob

Rubbish

Used correctly as Nutty says and they are fine

Been using them on my GS's for 25 years

No corrosion

No stripped paint or stickers

No premature bearing failure or blown fork seals


If your care to read my post again, I inferred and explained they can have a detrimental effect if used incorrectly.

I've included my original post and highlighted the relevant wording on lines 1, 2 and 3.
 
See if you still feel the same at 10,000 miles and 18 months from now.. I guarantee you will see rear subframe corrosion as they are painted by a bloke with parkinsons. ;-)
 
See if you still feel the same at 10,000 miles and 18 months from now.. I guarantee you will see rear subframe corrosion as they are painted by a bloke with parkinsons. ;-)

Would you like to see pictures of my 2013 LC , 20000 plus miles, with no corrosion whatsoever ? I can take them today if you think I might fake them.
 
Last time I checked galvanising has not been made illegal by the EU (yet) so why the F don't they galvanise critical steel parts? Many cars today have galvanised body panels - Audi/Porsche for example but not all panels can be done obviously. Aluminium pieces are another story as I don't believe you can galvanise aluminium but only anodise. And this is where all the cr*p happens ...

Mbe when you buy your shiny new toy its best to strip it all the way down ... and apply some of this ... http://www.bilthamber.com/corrosion-protection-and-rust-treatments/electrox best stuff I have found.

I am on the edge of getting a GSA and this corrosion shyt is giving me far to much anxiety.
 
See if you still feel the same at 10,000 miles and 18 months from now.. I guarantee you will see rear subframe corrosion as they are painted by a bloke with parkinsons. ;-)

The trouble is the underneath of the rear sub-frame gets peppered by spray from the rear wheel so after a couple of years this will start to show rust spots. When I got my latest GSA in June 2014 I covered the underside of the subframe tubes with 3M clear plastic. Now, almost 3 years and 25,000 miles later, there is no sign of major corrosion anywhere (except on the centre stand). I ride the bike all year, I hardly ever wash it (maybe every couple of months), in Winter it goes longer without a wash, I just hose it down if there has been salt on the road, I normally apply ACF50 at the start of Winter, but didn't this last Winter, when I gave it a proper wash a couple of weeks ago it came up like new. The top box is showing a few spots of corrosion, but hardly noticeable.

There are a few bikes that do show terrible corrosion within a few months. I saw one that was only 6 months old, the sub-frame on one side was terrible, but it was like new on the other side. Similarly, I've seen some engines with paint peeling after only a few months. My feeling is there is a problem with QA, which results in some bikes being badly affected with corrosion, but when you bear in mind how many of these components are common across the models, and the hundreds of thousands of bikes with these common components that are sold, I suspect the percentage is very low. Remember, people are only going to put up a thread when they have problems, if everyone who doesn't have a problem posted a new thread you would never see the threads about corrosion, they'd be buried.

Yes, it should be better, for what we pay nobody's bike should be corroding, but with the way some people comment about it you would think every bike is affected when this is simply not the case. I'm on my third GS and I've had no issues with corrosion, I'll be buying my 4th in the next 12 months.
 
My GS gets the same as any other bike I've ever had, a garage jet wash when it's minging

Never even thought of treating a bike with ACF50 or anything else and never had a problem with any of them

So far it's only a year old but it's still like new, as it should be :nenau
 


Back
Top Bottom