► Chains, oilers, sprockets

Presumably double injectors use double the amount of oil???

I really need a new chain, when I had my valves checked they threw in the chain and sprockets gratis, but the chain sucks. Only done about 1K miles, cleaned & lubed 2-3 times in that month or so and its so badly discoloured with corrosion.

I need to put my DID VX back on that they removed... if I'd known OEM would be this bad I'd not have bothered. :blast
 
Not necessarily so, because the oil is delivered to both sides of the chain instead of relying on capillary action the chain gets more evenly coated with oil so it can be left as normal.
Ideally the nozzles should nearly touch the rear sprocket but because of the lip near the teeth on the original sprocket it not possible to do this, a flat sprocket would be a lot better, also the bolts are very near to the edge of the sprocket and can touch the nozzles.

The OEM chain is not the most corrsion resistant! mine has done 12,000 miles without adjustment but will corrode at the slightest chance, hence the twin injectors!
 
Don't forget that with an 'O' ring chain and an oiler there's no capillary action - the lube the oiler gives mostly keeps the 'O' rings in good condition and 'washes' the chain. The 'O' rings are there to keep the pre-loaded grease in the chain and road muck out ...

G
 
+1 for the lube tube, I've got mine in the rear compartment (OK if you have no alarm fitted)

Any problems with the positioning? Found this on the Scottoiler Forum:

grant@scottoiler said:
NOTE. The Lube tube can be positioned slightly lower than the RMV or at the same height. The Lube tube must not be placed any higher than the RMV , for two reasons.

1. The extra “head of gravity” created could override the closing spring in the RMV and the oil could flow without the engine running.

2. Even the tiniest leak any where (or the filler plug not located properly) could result in the entire contents of the Lube tube leaking out all over the bike.

After trawling pictures I came to the conclusion that although possible to fit the touring kit, with some modification, it probably aint best suited. Then I found that they also say:

grant@scottoiler said:
The Touring kit isn’t recommended on the V-Strom and BMW GS singles and twins as the rear mudguards aren't strong enough to carry the weight of the kit, full of oil.

For anyone else interested here's some pics of the lube tube positioning behind the engine, I thought it mught be too hot behind there but apparently not???

<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/scottoiler/5933153803/" title="Lubetube behind Frame by Scottoiler, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm7.staticflickr.com/6029/5933153803_b161b7bf16.jpg" width="500" height="375" alt="Lubetube behind Frame"></a>
Lubetube behind Frame

<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/scottoiler/5933713598/" title="RMV with Lube tube behind frame1 by Scottoiler, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm7.staticflickr.com/6139/5933713598_cb75d86b6e.jpg" width="500" height="375" alt="RMV with Lube tube behind frame1"></a>

:beerjug:
 
That's where BMW dealers fit the F650/800GS specific kit.

Was referring to the tube lube specifically as opposed to the RMV itself. I recall reading in the instructions about not installing in hot places. I guess they mean exhaust manifold and downpipes, which do get effing hot, rather than behind the engine.

Anyone know if the lube tubes can be doubled up: either one after the other or two into the RMV? Lube Tube holds 200ml V. 400ml HCR... I really want that higher capacity. Any other suitably discrete places to effectively install the touring kit?
 
Was referring to the tube lube specifically as opposed to the RMV itself. I recall reading in the instructions about not installing in hot places. I guess they mean exhaust manifold and downpipes, which do get effing hot, rather than behind the engine.

Anyone know if the lube tubes can be doubled up: either one after the other or two into the RMV? Lube Tube holds 200ml V. 400ml HCR... I really want that higher capacity. Any other suitably discrete places to effectively install the touring kit?

There's always the space behind the rear light accessed from the wheel arch...

On an aside - has anyone tried using chainsaw oil (or any other oil for that matter...) instead? I don't mind paying for stuff but i think the Scottoiler markup is a bit much to stomach unless there is something quite significantly magic about their oil asides the dye?
 
Hi all,
Just wanted some advice.My F800gs is going in to Woollastons for its 1st 600 mile service soon & i am thinking of gettin a scotoiler fitted.Would be interested to hear of the for & against of havin one fitted. Does the oil fly all over your back wheel for instance? Not doin big mileage really, about 3-5K a year.Would appreciate some feedback, especially reading the horror stories about chains on this forum.Thanks.

You should get one. it will prolong the life of your chain, and relieve yourself of the pain in the ass that chain lubing is if you only have a sidestand not a mainstand..

Job done.

HTH

Mark
 
I've covered over 25,000 mile with the Lubetube in the rear compartment with no problems. I find this set-up works well, despite Scotoilers advice. There is the potential to get a leakage from the Lubetube and/or link pipe, but if carefully routed, installed and checked, the risk is minimal. As for range, I top-up mine about every 2,500 > 3,000 mile.
 
Why bother: On my previous, chained, bikes - a bit of slap-dash lubing when I thought of it and a new chain every 10-15k. The chain is not going to last forever no matter what you do for it.
 
Why bother: On my previous, chained, bikes - a bit of slap-dash lubing when I thought of it and a new chain every 10-15k. The chain is not going to last forever no matter what you do for it.

A correctly set scott oiler will increase chain and sprocket life at least a third plus the bike runs smoother also an improvement in mpg because it is constantly lubricated.
if it is throwing oil on to the wheel which is a common complaint then adjust it slower one drip every 30-45 seconds is all it needs that should give you 500 miles on one fill with the standard feeder
 
Okay this is my brief story in images of fitting my esystem kit.


Lets get it on!
p9210019.jpg


Controller unit fitted, power lead goes to the battery..

p9220024.jpg


Locate pump lead & plug 'n' play ;)

p9220025.jpg


WRONG WAY UP Pump & Reservoir unit location

wrongway.jpg


Corrected, do'h.. (who said "Did you read the instructions?" *Shush*)

p9230033.jpg


Dual injector/header/feeder thingie fitted with temporary grey zip ties.

p9230045.jpg


p9230042.jpg


Check it looks good @night, check!

p9220029.jpg


All done & dusted with an extra clean on top.

p9230040.jpg


p9230058.jpg


:beerjug:

Link for instructions; http://www.scottoiler.es/docs/esystem/eSystem_Installation_en.pdf



Great job.............. but did you forget to connect the "Check Valve" to the top on the reservoir after priming:nenau:nenau
 
To Scott oil or not to Scott oil... that is the question?

Evening all, after a couple or three years away from Biking I am returning to the dark side (2 wheels good 4 wheels bad!)

:pullface

Am going to look at an F800gs on Fri(a 2010 with 2K on the clock)
My question is: should I fit a Scott oiler... & if so which one?

All my previous "Herman the germans" have been shaft drive so would welcome any info on this chain drive thingy.

:ronno

(this old dog is never too old to learn a new trick)
:rob
 
I had one on my old 650 twin and will definitely fit one to my next 'keeper' saves worrying about forgetting to oil the chain, which i probably would :blast
Does make the rear wheel dirty if you don't get the flow right tho :D
 
Yep

Fit one,went all the way down to perpignon and back with a 990,never had to adjust chain once,keeps it like new,and as said get the flow right and you wont be swimming in lube......
 
I had one on my old 650 twin and will definitely fit one to my next 'keeper' saves worrying about forgetting to oil the chain, which i probably would :blast
Does make the rear wheel dirty if you don't get the flow right tho :D

Which oiler did you have... the Vacuum one or the electronic?
 
Although i agree the Scot oiler keeps the chain pretty healthy, i still find myself inspecting the chain as often as i would without one, so i ask myself what is the point.

I have the vacuum scotoiler fitted and to be honest it was pretty easy to fit even with my club hands so that should not be an issue for anyone else with a modicum of sense.

For longer journeys i have been told a lube tube add on is a good investment, but i have to say on recent long journeys i found i was carrying more oil to top up the oiler than anyone who used the good old spraycan, so again i ask myself why did i waste 100quid on the oiler.

i suppose my point is if you want to top up and leave it for 800 miles without inspecting the chain then get the scotoiler, if you find yourself having a quick look at the chain at the beginning of a ride then stick with a can. much cheaper.:thumb2
 
The Scott Oiler is a fabulous piece of kit, much better than spray lube, and if you have a correctly set up dual head unit, uses a tiny amount of oil (about a third compared to the single head). As for electronic or vacuum....... never used an electronic one, but have used a vacuum unit on all my chain driven road bikes for about eight years.

Only drawback (which spray wax shares) is that in sandy locations, it'll turn into grinding paste with the sand sticking to it. My offroad bikes always get Profi dry-lube, but to be honest I'm seriously considering using an oiler on my current bike. Changing the chain & sprockets a few weeks earlier has got to be an awful lot less of a PITA than scrubbing and spraying a chain every few days!
 
38000 miles,
Original chain swapped at 11000
front sprocket changed at 24000
original rear sprocket.
I clean the chain with a rag and wipe new scott oil on with a small paint brush. It takes a few minutes but gives me chance to inspect the chain, spokes, rim and tyre. With a new chain I was adjusting every 2000m but I have not adjusted in over 4000 miles now its old. Its due a change because tight spots are developing causing surging a low speeds.
I consider the £80 saved by not fitting an oiler is %75 towards a new chain and sprockets.
 


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