► Chains, oilers, sprockets

I have no real knowledge of the mechanics of bikes. All i know if summat happens to the back sprocket it can lock the rear wheel up and you're buggered!!!
 
Tim Cullis said:
The purpose of the Scottoiler isn't to lubricate the chain (this should be built in via the O-ring technology), it's to lubricate the interface between the chain and the sprockets. Which is more important, rear sprocket or front?
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That's not entirely true. Lubricating the chain with a Scottoiler keeps the O-rings moist so that they don't dry out and crack, thereby preventing the grease which is sealed in by the O-rings from escaping. If it's set high enough, it also washes grit off the chain and reduces, if not entirely eliminates, the grinding paste effect.

The nib should be set so that it drips onto the face of the rear sprocket. Since the front sprocket turns much faster than the rear, oil will tend to flung off it rather than staying on the chain. Scottoiler put a considerable amount of research into their products and the instructions for their fitting and use reflect this.

Did I mention that Fraser Scott, the inventor is a hell of nice guy...? :)
 
Schtum said:
That's not entirely true. Lubricating the chain with a Scottoiler keeps the O-rings moist so that they don't dry out and crack, thereby preventing the grease which is sealed in by the O-rings from escaping. If it's set high enough, it also washes grit off the chain and reduces, if not entirely eliminates, the grinding paste effect.

The nib should be set so that it drips onto the face of the rear sprocket. Since the front sprocket turns much faster than the rear, oil will tend to flung off it rather than staying on the chain. Scottoiler put a considerable amount of research into their products and the instructions for their fitting and use reflect this.

Did I mention that Fraser Scott, the inventor is a hell of nice guy...? :)
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Sorry Tim i'm with Schtum on this one. There website even quotes as saying "The Scottoiler chain lubrication system relates to the lubricating and cleaning of chains".:beerjug:
 
I think what Tim means is that in lubracating the interface (the sprocket) the chain will be lubracated that the same point, meaning the O-rings will pickup the oil as well, and it should work into the chain.

Having the oil drip onto a fast moving chain will simply fling back off again, having the oil drop on to a fast moving, yet flat surface, in this instance the sprocket the oil shall reach all areas required.

Whilst you may achieve a neater install, it is advertised that it should be attached to the rear sprocket. Because the front sprocket spins faster, any snatching of the throttle will effectively hit the rear sprocket with the force proportional to the size difference, therefore I would always assume putting the despenser on the back would be the most appropriate.
 
So long as the oil gets to the bits under stress - the roller faces, as well as keeping the O rings lubed then it doesn't realy matter. I had one on my FJ for about 80,000 miles and it's great.

Doesn't matter where it dispenses, it's setting the metering valve that makes the difference. Too much and it'll be everywhere, too little and it's not doing the best job it can.

Still think enclosed chains are the way to go for off road bikes mind...
 
Chain/Sprocket GS800

Can any one provide me with a recommendation and supplier for a decent aftermarket chain and sprocket kit for an 800GS please?

thanks,
 
Dave Ett said:
So long as the oil gets to the bits under stress - the roller faces, as well as keeping the O rings lubed then it doesn't realy matter. I had one on my FJ for about 80,000 miles and it's great.

Doesn't matter where it dispenses, it's setting the metering valve that makes the difference. Too much and it'll be everywhere, too little and it's not doing the best job it can.

Still think enclosed chains are the way to go for off road bikes mind...
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Interesting debate! I had one on my FJ 1200 as well and then it went on my ST4 and now it's going on my F800. Phil Hacker of the FJ owners club, who is the best mechanic I have ever met (ex RAF), used to sell a kit to fit on the front sprocket. He reckoned it oiled the chain and sprockets just as well and kept oil off the rear tyre more efficiently, and it worked OK for me. Everyone to his own I guess.

More to the point where is the vacuum take off from the intake tract and can I get at it without taking everything off?
 
lunchbox said:
The second type I must admit I have never seen before and looks rather insubstantial and possibly weak - but I would be interested in other views on it.
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It is a softlink -preferred to be used with a tool, the thin metal "wires" are probably just for fitting and not getting the o-ring smashed
 
Berin said:
without softlink, ie continuous? No split-link? Is it a 525 pitch?
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Yes continuous, no split, all the DID-kit I have ordered all been continuous so 99% sure, you have to order

Artikelnr.

10040082

the 10003170 tool(only for DID-chains) makes the job perfect
 
lunchbox said:
More to the point where is the vacuum take off from the intake tract and can I get at it without taking everything off?
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Luchbox

Fitting the vacuum take-off is pretty easy. Just one panel to remove to get to the bung. My advice is to use a flat headed screwdriver to ease the bung most of the way off (with your spare hand or other recepticle under in case you ping it off :rob) and then use long-nose pliers to pull the bung off the last bit.

Link to scottoiler webpage with downloadable fitting instructions......

http://www.scottoiler.com/SuitableK...iler+BMW+F650GS+&+F800GS+(800+Twin)+2008-+Kit

cheers

Andy
 
old-man-andy said:
Luchbox

Fitting the vacuum take-off is pretty easy. Just one panel to remove to get to the bung. My advice is to use a flat headed screwdriver to ease the bung most of the way off (with your spare hand or other recepticle under in case you ping it off :rob) and then use long-nose pliers to pull the bung off the last bit.

Link to scottoiler webpage with downloadable fitting instructions......

http://www.scottoiler.com/SuitableK...iler+BMW+F650GS+&+F800GS+(800+Twin)+2008-+Kit

cheers

Andy
Click to expand...

Thanks Andy, the video is really clear on the website - but I did laugh when he said "the chain on this BMW should last 25 - 30K miles" He has obviously not been reading the "chain failures 22 and still counting" thread on this site! I think I may try fitting it to the rear sprocket this time and see how it goes.
 
Berin said:
thanks - do you know what the make is? There's no spec on it. And do you know if the sprockets are decent ones or the BuMW ones? I see most people seem to rate the DID chains.
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As I said the one I got from them was DID 525VM with a soft link (but without those wires which could be used to space the plates I suppose but with a proper riveting tool would be unnecessary). But phone them up - they are very helpful. I got my sprockets separately from BMW for a hefty £70 cos I could only find TT alloy ones anywhere else. Maybe there are pattern steel ones on the market now.

The problem with a continuous chain is that you have to drop the swinging arm out to fit it and that is a hassle or expensive if you get a dealer to do it. Otherwise, if they provide steel sprocks, then the louis de deal looks OK.
 
Nippy Normans supply Touratech, Wunderlich, Desert Fox and many other makes of accessories.
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