How easy to fit? Are there torque figures and any details anywhere?
► Chains, oilers, sprockets
- Thread starter Thunder
- Start date
Got the chain and sprockets from Motorworks - the chain is a DID 525VM2 X ring and the sprockets are BMW parts. The chain is open and the link is pictured below.
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/ccscuba/3795127442/" title="DID chain link by 1mgs, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2514/3795127442_ff66805fc2_o.jpg" width="640" height="480" alt="DID chain link" /></a>
I'm not familiar with this - I use a spring clip type master link and a motion pro chain tool. I'm pretty sure that this tool will break the existing chain but it will only fit clip type master links.
I assume the link above is a "soft rivet" type - do I need yet another tool to fit this?
thanks....
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/ccscuba/3795127442/" title="DID chain link by 1mgs, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2514/3795127442_ff66805fc2_o.jpg" width="640" height="480" alt="DID chain link" /></a>
I'm not familiar with this - I use a spring clip type master link and a motion pro chain tool. I'm pretty sure that this tool will break the existing chain but it will only fit clip type master links.
I assume the link above is a "soft rivet" type - do I need yet another tool to fit this?
thanks....
Chris G
Registered user
Siezed front sprocket!
Hi all,
just getting round to fittting the new chains and sprockets....
all going well, dremel through the old chain
rear wheel out
17mm bolt removed from front sprocket
how the hell do you get the old sprocket off, so far I have tried soaking the splines with plus-gas, and then moved onto a set of hub pullers- 
, not moving one little bit-
anyone had a similar issue? or a solution
Hi all,
just getting round to fittting the new chains and sprockets....
all going well, dremel through the old chain
rear wheel out
17mm bolt removed from front sprocket
how the hell do you get the old sprocket off
, so far I have tried soaking the splines with plus-gas, and then moved onto a set of hub pullers- , not moving one little bit-anyone had a similar issue? or a solution
lunchbox
Registered user
Got the chain and sprockets from Motorworks - the chain is a DID 525VM2 X ring and the sprockets are BMW parts. The chain is open and the link is pictured below.
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/ccscuba/3795127442/" title="DID chain link by 1mgs, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2514/3795127442_ff66805fc2_o.jpg" width="640" height="480" alt="DID chain link" /></a>
I'm not familiar with this - I use a spring clip type master link and a motion pro chain tool. I'm pretty sure that this tool will break the existing chain but it will only fit clip type master links.
I assume the link above is a "soft rivet" type - do I need yet another tool to fit this?
thanks....
Yep, you need a riveter - watch out for expensive ones on eBay made out of monkey metal, they will break - I know! I don't know a good make to suggest but the rivet pin needs to be made of tool steel.
As for Chris G's sprocket....have you tried a large hammer Chris? seriously if you wack it around the (presumably shagged) edges a few times it may unseize it and allow the puller to do it's work. If not I suggest you take it to your dealer - at least if they **** it up they have to fix it!
Chris G
Registered user
Bit nervous about belting the cog, as the bearing it's fastened to isn't designed for side load
, I think this is a dealer issue now
fishburger
Registered user
When I changed my chain and sprocets I bought the riveting tool from DID.
Easy to use for putting the chain together and also to remove old chain.
I payed 75£ for it.nice proffesional tool
fishburger
Easy to use for putting the chain together and also to remove old chain.
I payed 75£ for it.nice proffesional tool
fishburger
lunchbox
Registered user
Seeing as I paid £50 for a crap one off ebay that broke as soon as I used it £75 seems a fair price! Luckily I got a refund off Donnington motors.
Turns out the sprockets are the wrong ones.
Motorworks list a single part for the 800 and 650 on both front and rear sprockets. (front) and (rear)
But they're different, 650 is 17/41 and 800 is 16/42. You can't even go up a cog on the front as it doesn't fit and anyway I didn't want to change the gearing. I had to buy BMW items from NOG as the bike was in bits so I'll be sending the others back for a refund.
Motorworks list a single part for the 800 and 650 on both front and rear sprockets. (front) and (rear)
But they're different, 650 is 17/41 and 800 is 16/42. You can't even go up a cog on the front as it doesn't fit and anyway I didn't want to change the gearing. I had to buy BMW items from NOG as the bike was in bits so I'll be sending the others back for a refund.
Got the chain and sprockets from Motorworks - the chain is a DID 525VM2 X ring and the sprockets are BMW parts. The chain is open and the link is pictured below.
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/ccscuba/3795127442/" title="DID chain link by 1mgs, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2514/3795127442_ff66805fc2_o.jpg" width="640" height="480" alt="DID chain link" /></a>
I'm not familiar with this - I use a spring clip type master link and a motion pro chain tool. I'm pretty sure that this tool will break the existing chain but it will only fit clip type master links.
I assume the link above is a "soft rivet" type - do I need yet another tool to fit this?
thanks....
lunchbox
Registered user
message from CZ
Anyone who is still wondering why their chain slaps, slashes, rattles, rusts and finally breaks should read my last 2 posts on the "23 and still counting" thread. It seems CZ and BMW have known about this problem since April 08 and have consistently denied it and let us suffer until they developed an upgrade in July 09. Arseholes I call 'em!
Anyone who is still wondering why their chain slaps, slashes, rattles, rusts and finally breaks should read my last 2 posts on the "23 and still counting" thread. It seems CZ and BMW have known about this problem since April 08 and have consistently denied it and let us suffer until they developed an upgrade in July 09. Arseholes I call 'em!
Need advice please.
My F800 has done 250 miles on original sprockets/chain but I am considering getting a DID.
Should I get new sprockets or will the originals still be ok.
can I fit a 525 chain on these sprockets or are there specific ones for a larger chain.
thanks
karl
My F800 has done 250 miles on original sprockets/chain but I am considering getting a DID.
Should I get new sprockets or will the originals still be ok.
can I fit a 525 chain on these sprockets or are there specific ones for a larger chain.
thanks
karl
everywherevirtually
Registered user
If it ain't broke don't fix it. I got 17000 miles out of my originals. Why waste money after only 250 miles. Might as well get the value out of them.
If it ain't broke don't fix it. I got 17000 miles out of my originals. Why waste money after only 250 miles. Might as well get the value out of them.
As there are numerous reports of the chains breaking I cannot see the point of waiting.
I cannot be arsed to wait unnecessarily for BMW Assist when I can easily solve a known potential problem and then enjoy the bike.
You have got 17000 miles - others seem to have got considerably less - where willl my bike fit in this equation.
Some interesting stuff on here.
IMHO the most important area to lubricate is the pin (not the roller). The pin is also the key to the overall tensile strength of the chain.
If not regularly maintained, basic non-O-ring chains can suffer from lack of pin lubrication which in turn leads to stiff joints, loss of drive efficiency and ultimately chain failure.
O-rings are designed to keep the factory lubrication in the pin and to keep dirt out. For road use they work well enough. However the O-ring means that the chain must be wider and, in turn, that means a heavier chain. There are also some friction loses associated with the O-ring (but these are small).
X-ring chains work similarly to O-rings but the ring has two contact rings on each sideplate so should hold in more lube and keep out more dirt.
Pin diameter and sideplate thickness are factors in the tensile strength of the chain - but a half-decent 525 chain should have a tensile strength of at least 35kN - if tensile strength is not quoted, I wouldn't buy.
Avoid 'racing' chains - they usually have no O or X rings and thinner sideplates to keep the weight down.
But to repeat what I said earlier, a good lubrication regime is key to long life of any chain (which is why I first bought a shaft BMW!! )
Greg
IMHO the most important area to lubricate is the pin (not the roller). The pin is also the key to the overall tensile strength of the chain.
If not regularly maintained, basic non-O-ring chains can suffer from lack of pin lubrication which in turn leads to stiff joints, loss of drive efficiency and ultimately chain failure.
O-rings are designed to keep the factory lubrication in the pin and to keep dirt out. For road use they work well enough. However the O-ring means that the chain must be wider and, in turn, that means a heavier chain. There are also some friction loses associated with the O-ring (but these are small).
X-ring chains work similarly to O-rings but the ring has two contact rings on each sideplate so should hold in more lube and keep out more dirt.
Pin diameter and sideplate thickness are factors in the tensile strength of the chain - but a half-decent 525 chain should have a tensile strength of at least 35kN - if tensile strength is not quoted, I wouldn't buy.
Avoid 'racing' chains - they usually have no O or X rings and thinner sideplates to keep the weight down.
But to repeat what I said earlier, a good lubrication regime is key to long life of any chain (which is why I first bought a shaft BMW!!
)Greg
lunchbox
Registered user
There should be no appreciable wear in your sprockets after 250 miles. I don't know what others think but IMHO you could do a couple of thou miles (but not offroad) before sprockets wear enough to reduce the life of a newly fitted chain.
Only a small percentage of chains have broken but many more seem to wear quickly and unevenly and slash around sounding awful. Some people (like AWV above) seem to get good ones that last ages - it is a tossup! If your bike is new I would ask your dealer if it has the upgraded chain, which became available in July - if not ask for it.
Judging from many other posts a good test might be if the chain stretches unevenly, sound like a train or forms surface rust even when well lubricated. If not you might want to try it for a bit longer. Best of luck
lunchbox
Registered user
It is a CZ but, according to the email I received, it has been improved. See my post with the email attached, along with a lot of other "chain experiences" on this thread:
http://www.ukgser.com/forums/showthread.php?t=195682&page=6
Thorvald
Guest
Thanks for all this chain info guys, I pickup my new 2009 F650GS this afternoon actually!
First thing I am doing when home is videotape the chain tension/slack etc and measure it. This way I can compare it down the road as I ride. Also going to check the lube and alignment. Before next spring though, I'll likely toss the stock chain for the nice DID.
---
I have a question on the chain however, some people mention fitting the DID530 instead of the DID525 for strength etc but I can't find any posts where anyone has actually done it.
Has anyone tried?
Thanks
Tim
First thing I am doing when home is videotape the chain tension/slack etc and measure it. This way I can compare it down the road as I ride. Also going to check the lube and alignment. Before next spring though, I'll likely toss the stock chain for the nice DID.
---
I have a question on the chain however, some people mention fitting the DID530 instead of the DID525 for strength etc but I can't find any posts where anyone has actually done it.
Has anyone tried?
Thanks
Tim
I was one of the guys that suggested using the 530, but have not tried it as my OEM chain is not worn out. I will research it again when it is close to time... there COULD be a clearance issue at the front sprocket to engine-casting, but I don't think so ... It would seem that since there is little if any price difference, higher strength, and longer life... why not go for it ??? Maybe I'm missing something?
I have the CZ chain that was the OEM about a year ago, I understand that there may be a new mfg. now, but I have had no issues. I lubricate my chain regularly, and have been inspecting it for side-plate issues but found none. I adjusted it at the 600 mile mark and have not had to re-adjust since... I have 6000 miles on it now, and it is getting close to the 40mm max. slack...
mostly on-road but I have nothing to complain about ... so far....
I have the CZ chain that was the OEM about a year ago, I understand that there may be a new mfg. now, but I have had no issues. I lubricate my chain regularly, and have been inspecting it for side-plate issues but found none. I adjusted it at the 600 mile mark and have not had to re-adjust since... I have 6000 miles on it now, and it is getting close to the 40mm max. slack...
mostly on-road but I have nothing to complain about ... so far....
You're not thinking about using a 530 chain on OE sprockets are you?
DO NOT fit a 530 chain to 525 sprockets!!
Besides, there is no benefit unless you know the replacement chain is actually stronger.
Greg
Greg:
First ... let me "state for the record" before I confuse anybody, I'm not saying this is a "good idea" ... I'm still thinking about it.
I was suggested in some cycle mag. a while back as a good idea because of (all other things being equal ... that is same brand, same series, etc) that:
Pros:
1) the tensile strength would be the same or or better then comparable 525
2) the life "should" be better as there is 1/16" extra length on the pins so the same amout of wear is distributed over a larger area thus longer life before you get too much slop.
3) since the chain now (nominally) has 1/32" extra clearance on each side of the sprockets there is less frictional losses.
4) I have heard that the 530 is a more commonly stocked chain at MC stores, so could be an easier to find "emergency substitute" if nothing else?
Cons:
1) if the tolerances on the bike are very tight the side of the chain could rub on something.
2) it is obviously weighs more than the comparable 525 chain.
What downside(s) am I missing?
I will be first to admit there could be some other downsides...
Jim
First ... let me "state for the record" before I confuse anybody, I'm not saying this is a "good idea" ... I'm still thinking about it.
I was suggested in some cycle mag. a while back as a good idea because of (all other things being equal ... that is same brand, same series, etc) that:
Pros:
1) the tensile strength would be the same or or better then comparable 525
2) the life "should" be better as there is 1/16" extra length on the pins so the same amout of wear is distributed over a larger area thus longer life before you get too much slop.
3) since the chain now (nominally) has 1/32" extra clearance on each side of the sprockets there is less frictional losses.
4) I have heard that the 530 is a more commonly stocked chain at MC stores, so could be an easier to find "emergency substitute" if nothing else?
Cons:
1) if the tolerances on the bike are very tight the side of the chain could rub on something.
2) it is obviously weighs more than the comparable 525 chain.
What downside(s) am I missing?
I will be first to admit there could be some other downsides...
Jim
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