► Forks--clonks, gaiters and leaks

  • Thread starter Thread starter GS800NR9
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I want to resolve the clonk so I'll try to check my head bearing.

The RepRom says:

Initial torque, 25 Nm
Swing handlebars through 3 full arcs
Back off through angle of rotation, 60°
Final torque, 10 Nm

The 25 Nm is correct or is not enogh?

Which torque do you use?
 
Is it worth adjusting my forks to the level shown in EV's photo?

This is clearly not 7.8mm!
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Changing fork springs on F650GS twin

While taking my forks out to fit some rubber gaiters I thought I would check out how tricky it might be to replace the fork springs with Hyperpro or similar.

I prised the black plastic cap off one of the forks expecting to see a nice fat bolt head below, but there was just a plate with a smooth sided hole in the middle. It seems to have a spring clip surrounding it but I'm not sure what's under the plate. Is a spring going to fly out if I remove this?

Has anyone done this procedure on the 650 twin...how easy was it...and did it make a big difference? My forks have bottomed out a couple of times off road with the standard springs. Iv'e not done a spring replacement job before so I would be working from the instructions.

The alternative is to pay someone £105 to do the front and rear springs with the Hyperpro combi kit. The kit itself is £192.

Any thoughts on pros/cons of Hyper, Ohlins or Wilburs springs gratefully received.

Malc

Thanks.
 

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While taking my forks out to fit some rubber gaiters I thought I would check out how tricky it might be to replace the fork springs with Hyperpro or similar.

I prised the black plastic cap off one of the forks expecting to see a nice fat bolt head below, but there was just a plate with a smooth sided hole in the middle. It seems to have a spring clip surrounding it but I'm not sure what's under the plate. Is a spring going to fly out if I remove this?

Has anyone done this procedure on the 650 twin...how easy was it...and did it make a big difference? My forks have bottomed out a couple of times off road with the standard springs. Iv'e not done a spring replacement job before so I would be working from the instructions.

The alternative is to pay someone £105 to do the front and rear springs with the Hyperpro combi kit. The kit itself is £192.

Any thoughts on pros/cons of Hyper, Ohlins or Wilburs springs gratefully received.

Malc

Thanks.

It is fairly simple, you have to push the top down and remowe the circlip, often good to have a third hand available, there is some preload on the spring but not that heavy, then you slide the stanchion down to get the spring out....... that is just about it:augie
 
It is fairly simple, you have to push the top down and remowe the circlip, often good to have a third hand available, there is some preload on the spring but not that heavy, then you slide the stanchion down to get the spring out....... that is just about it:augie

I tried pushing the top cap down but the whole fork just compressed. The top wasn't budging. Do I have to release the fork oil first through the hole at the bottom, or just push harder!

Thanks

Malc
 
Push Harder!

You just have to push harder ... When I put the Intiminators in my F650GS twin, I made a small pushing tool with a bit of dowel inset into the side of a small block of wood. It made it much easier on the hands for pushing.

The advice to have a friend assist in removing/reinserting the spring clips is worth heeding.

Mike
 
I tried pushing the top cap down but the whole fork just compressed. The top wasn't budging. Do I have to release the fork oil first through the hole at the bottom, or just push harder!

Thanks

Malc

The top cap is seald with an O ring that often bites to the stanchion, one hit with a hammer loosens it usually

cheers
Eythor
 


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