► Wheel bearing failures

Don't pack the bearings as in cram as much in as you can, leave space for the grease to move about. Too much and it will cavitate letting the balls revolve in a gap in the grease unlubricated.The manufacturers don't put so little in to save on cost, its the optimum amount for general use.
I have read a lot of comments about replacement bearings lasting only a few thousand miles, I find it hard to believe any bearing manufacturer is that bad. I suspect the new bearings are being hammered in using the inner race. Don't ever do this, chill the bearings in the freezer, warm the hub with hot water and press them in using a large socket on the outer race only.

The following is an extract from a bearing design paper (in this case a centifugal pump)

It turns out that bearings fail for two main reasons:

Contamination of the bearing lubricant by water or moisture.
High heat often caused by too much lubrication.
As little as 0.002% water in the bearing oil will reduce bearing life 48%. The water enters from packing leakage, wash down hoses and aspiration caused by the temperature cooling down in the bearing casing after shutdown, and moisture laden air entering the bearing case. A 6% water content in the oil will reduce bearing life by as much as 83%. The water or moisture contamination comes from three main sources:

Packing leakage.
Water hoses used to wash down the base plate area because of packing leakage.
Aspiration or moisture in the air entering the bearing case especially when the pump is stopped.
In paper 13-9 we talked about the seals you can use to keep this moisture out of your bearing case. In this paper we will investigate the second reason bearings fail.

Excessive heat!

A couple of paragraphs above I said that over lubrication would cause high heat. What is the problem with over lubrication? If a little lubrication were good, wouldn't a lot be better? Not really! Think about it this way. Picture yourself on a hot day walking along the beach. You go into the water up to your ankles, and as you walk along rapidly you feel cool and refreshed. Now walk rapidly in water up to your waist and you see the problem. It takes a lot of energy to get through the same temperature water and this would make you hot and fatigued instead of cool and refreshed

It's the same thing with lubrication. Too high a lubrication level and the bearing will consume energy as it plows through the lubricant. This energy will show up as heat added to the lubricant causing it to first lose its viscosity and then the lubricant will begin to form varnish and coke as it gets hotter. Varnish and coke are another name for solids.

The problem with grease and oil lubricants is their low specific heat and their poor conductivity. Some of the synthetics are better, but they have a temperature limit that is still too low for many pumping applications. It is for this same reason that we do not recommend putting any type oil between dual seals if we can avoid it.

The SKF bearing company claims that uncontaminated grease and oil has a useful life of thirty years at 30°C (86°F) They further state that the life of grease and oil is cut in half for each 10°C (18°F) rise in temperature. That means that at 100°C (212°F) oil and grease have a useful life of only 90 days. Here are your lubrication options:

Grease packed

Grease is hard to change because the usual method is to pump grease into a grease fitting and let the new grease push out the old grease. This method guarantees the bearing will be over lubricated.
The only proper way to grease a bearing is to hand pack it full, but not the cavity where it is located. As the bearing heats up some of the grease will leak into the cavity reducing the amount of lubrication in the bearing.
 
Thanks for the advice Sooty, it is good to see some hard science here. Unfortunately it came too late as I have already installed the bearings, packed - but hopefully not too much. If they don't last I will just blame the others :augie!

Interestingly the inner RH wheel bearing (FAG) was fine and the hub bearing (Polish) wasn't too bad, but the LH (FAG) was totally f....d, wet and rusty, probably caused by driving through fords and careless power washing! I have left the front ones as they seem OK.
 
15k miles and my front bearings on the 800GS have gone. Dealer won't let me collect bike until Monday when they have got parts in and replaced them. Tad worrying that I hadn't noticed a problem.
 
I love my GS but..............................

Before you read this, please note, I love my bike........

I will be as brief and as to the point as possible. BMW UK Motorcycle customer service is lousy. In fact, as far as I am concerned the words BMW, customer and service do not even belong in the same sentence or on the same page.

It all began with a premature failure of the rear wheel bearing on the way to Portsmouth this August. The bike has only done 16500 and according to the BMW bike gurus the wheel bearings do not even figure in the 18000 mile, pre holiday service at BMW Benham (Wolverhampton), that I had done before I went to France in August. So they were not checked.

Thirteen miles outside of Portsmouth the rear wheel bearing fails and it is only a matter of the greatest fortune that I was on a B road and not a motorway doing 70 miles an hour. I might not be here to tell the tale.

The bearing was fixed, but not at BMW, since none could be found in the proximity of Portsmouth. I went on holiday and had a thoroughly jolly time, with a view to contacting BMW UK about this issue on our return.

This is really where my story really begins. What do we expect from a Customer Services system?

We set out our plan for what we would like the company to do to assist, especially in such a case where the premature failure of such a vital component on a motorbike takes place. In this case all I wanted was for BMW to have the bike checked over and to replace the old clip and spacer that unfortunately could not be matched when the bearing was fitted. I did not ask £1000 in used notes and make a promise to keep quiet about this horrific failure of the machine.

The outcome...................... Nothing but insults and accusations: I was accused of taking the bike off road and getting grit in the bearing, which would be enough to cause its degeneration. The bike is an F650 GS. It is used for road purposes; it does not have off road tyres. I am no Hercules. I am 5ft 2 inches, and strong as I might be, I am not able to pick the bike up from the floor on my own. Off Road.......they must be mad. You ask my husband; I ride like a girl; squared off tyres to match.

I was accused of abusing the bike; riding it beyond it's capabilities. I cannot afford to abuse a bike. I work too hard to keep it on the road.

I do have an off road bike, but it weighs less than 100 kilos and I can pick it up. It also has off road tyres.

I was also accused of abusing the bike and not keeping up the maintenance. The temerity of it. I can honestly say that I was shocked beyond belief. How insulting and rude......................

Where does this leave a 5 ft 2 inch lady rider, who has a limited range of bikes to choose from when it comes to the time that I should change my bike? Who knows.

Until that moment, my vow is this. The bike will only see the BMW service persons if absolutely necessary. From now on, my poor husband will have to
maintain this bike, as I have completely lost my faith in BMW servicing. How good I ask, is a warranty, a promise of customer care that fails to respect the customer? BMW customer care – it does not exist. It is a complete fallacy.

Yours faithfully

Jacquiey Atkinson (just in case any of you BMW bods get to read this and think
that I might be too cowardly to sign my name.)
 
You'll need 5 bearings all together, two in each wheel and one in the procket carrier.

I've used NTN bearings - 6204LLUC3/5C buy them from a bearing dealer not your BMW stealer and you'll save a comparative fortune ...

G
 
Go for it,change them.I've had mine replaced "just in case" last august whilst changing tires,bike had at that time around 9000mls on the clock and two of them had a small play.
 
You'll need 5 bearings all together, two in each wheel and one in the procket carrier.

I've used NTN bearings - 6204LLUC3/5C buy them from a bearing dealer not your BMW stealer and you'll save a comparative fortune ...

G

Hi Greggers,

Not having much luck on google - they seem to be abroad, trade only or in Japanese (i think). Can you recommend a good source?

S
 
rear wheel bearings lasted 500 miles, REALLY!!!!

I'm after an opinion here from anyone who would know the right answer to this question. Is it possible that after only 500 MILES I need new rear wheel bearings on an F650GS twin. When I bought my bike 500 miles ago i was told I couldnt collect it on the day I wanted as it was having new head bearings AND a new set of rear wheel bearings. 500 Miles later Im told that because my chain has tight spots in it the wheel bearings (rear) need replacing again.


I just had a quick play with the back wheel on my bike and rocking it side to side and also up and down I couldnt feel ANY movement AT ALL. Whats the score ladies and or gents, I'd really like to know.

Oh yeah, and by the way the chain is fitted with a Scottoiler which is set to "GENEROUS" on the lubrication side. I originally took the bike in to be looked at as it was a bit vibey and was told that sometimes just an incorrectly adjusted chain can do this..... Oh yeah and it was leaking oil, but not oil from the Scottoiler as has been politely suggested by the dealers!!


Mark..


P.S. If they fit new wheel bearings what do you think their response would be if i asked to see the old ones?????? And YES I Do know they read theses forums too...
 
I'd be very surprised if they've gone already - and I can't imagine that chain issues would cause a bearing failure.

I think the F650/800 wheel bearing issues were down to poor manufacturing tolerances (i.e they didn't make the holes big enough for the bearing, which ran tight so wore prematurely).

If there is no play, roughness, noise or rock from the bearings then they should be fine. I'd question if they were changed at all....
 
How tight was your chain?

A taut chain can feck the wheel bearings and the gearbox output shaft, because when you go over a bump, the suspension compresses and the only things to 'give' are the bearings
 
Have you had to adjust the chain in those 500 miles? If not, then the tight spots are their fault anyway. These bikes run with a fairly loose chain, not like a sports bike. I know this bike has chocolate bearings, but I doubt that they'd wear out that quickly. I'm fairly sure that you wouldn't see anything meaningful on the old bearings after they'd been bashed out. If you do end up paying for the bearings to be replaced, then supply your own (from a quality source).
 
As stated above, a chain with tight spots WILL knacker your gearbox output shaft, But with a scottoiler the chain shouldn't have "hot spots" ..That all depends on the mileage that the chain has on it..
I would think the cush drive/sprocket bearing might have a little play but due to the other two bearings inside the hub the wheel feels solid...
Are they OEM bearings?
How many miles on the bike
Have you had a new chain recently
Who put the original bearings in
How much grease is INSIDE the bearings
Have you adjusted the chain in the 500 miles or was it set when the bearings were put in ..
How much play is in the chain when on the SIDE STAND....

If the rear wheel feels tight, and there is no grinding/crunching noise when spun around you should be ok..Adjust the chain on the loose side and just keep an eye on it for a few weeks, If you ride daily then check daily for a week or so. Also check the condition of the front sprocket, they take a battering..
Ohh one more thing, -rear wheel alignment, check that as well...

Good luck...Tosh
 
I just read you question again, When you bought the bike 500 miles ago THEY put in new bearings....THEY adjusted the chain...therefore THEY are responsible for all repairs IF they think it is required....
 
How tight was your chain?

A taut chain can feck the wheel bearings and the gearbox output shaft, because when you go over a bump, the suspension compresses and the only things to 'give' are the bearings
In answer to your question my chain has about a 2 inches of movement in it. This is measured while its on its sidestand without my weight on it.I never thought about it logically but if the chain was overtightend then its because THEY overtightened it. Does the collective think that they might have TOLD| me 500 miles ago they were fitting new wheel bearings but in fact DIDNT. I'm quite keen on giving this dealer the benefit of the doubt so will see what happens. They have now offered to fit new wheel bearings. They dont want to know about replacing chain and sprockets though, BUT as Tosh just pointed out THEY adjusted the chain not me????

Watch this space people.
 
2" is about right whilst on the side stand, if you weigh 30 stone or over then it might be a problem...
Do me a favour please, put the bike on the centre stand ( the chain may tighten a bit ) and slowly spin the wheel, I want you to check EVERY link for "looseness" or "tight spot", so spin slowly and make sure that every link has the same play as all the rest...
If so then they are talking a load of mussi....let us know.....Tosh
 
I just had a quick play with the back wheel on my bike and rocking it side to side and also up and down I couldn't feel ANY movement AT ALL. Whats the score ladies and or gents, I'd really like to know.

If there is NO movement or nasty sounds then the bearings should be ok....

The BIG BIG thing is your output shaft..changing wheel bearings and changing chain and sprockets wont change the fact that IF and I do say IF the chain was way way way to tight then the gearbox output shaft bearings MIGHT be shot...that means the engine out and engine split in two,gearbox main shaft bearing replaced then it all put back together...
Sit on the bike in normal riding position ( no stands ) and feel the chain for play, if there is some play then dont worry..
 


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