02 R1150GS upper clamp bearing query

[CdnGSer]

I picked up a GS that needed some TLC. When assessing what appeared to be a lean with the forks I was loosening the bolts on the front suspension. These included the lower bridge pinch bolts, the upper fork leg bolts at the top of the fork tubes and the bigger upper brace bolt (the one thru the bearing). I did not remove any bolts just loosened.
As it turns out my A arm was bent. Fast forward now, I remove all applicable bits, replace the A arm and upon putting everything back got to the upper brace bolt and noticed it seems to turn 'easily' to tighten. I'm sure the Clymer manual only mentions heating this bolt on the R11/1150RS (or RT?) not the GS. Subsequently, I've since been reading that I should have applied some heat to this bolt. Is the GS frame made of chocolate?

Any thoughts on this? I guess I could just keep turning the bolt and see if I've just not tighten it enough and all is an illusion. If I've already stripped the threads in the frame stock then I can't do any worse.

FWIW, when I loosened this bolt I used an extension with a T-handle to turn it, not a rachet. I find using the T-handle manually turns bolts loose with a more even 'break loose' torque distribution. Just a theory from a mechanic friend of mine. This bolt has a torque of 130 Nm. I recall when I turned this bolt to loose it did not take much to turn it hence figured there was little to no resistance from any locktight. Is the frame composition really this sensitive?
Did I hoop this bolt/thread thing?
Don't get me wrong its not like its hand loose or any thing it just seems I'm turning it to tighten more than I remember when I backed it off.
Any thoughts? and any suggestions would be appreciated.

 

[Comfy Old Boots]

Do you mean the bolt at the front of the a arm as you call it?

Perhaps the previous owner put it back on without locktite? Can you see any?

In my experience, bolts go back on easier than they come off!

Can you not tighten it down and see? 130nm is tight, so if the threads are gunthered, it will not tighten...

 

[Flipfly]

I don't quite understand the question, pics might help. But, if you have stripped the threads by not heating the locking compound, you can't really accuse BM of making things from cheese.

A poor craftsman blames his tools

 

[mikeyboy]

if you mean the centre pivot bearing bolt on the top yoke,where the handle bars fit,
there is a nut underneath which will need holding.
its not threaded into the the frame

 

[monkeyboy]

If you've replaced the A arm, then I presume you're talking about the 21mm nut on the top of the pivot bearing - the one screwed into the yoke with the big f off 46mm.

That's a ball joint and the bolt will just rotate obviously In the head of the thread there is a M5/6 (from memory) hex fitting to hold the thread when you tighten the 21mm bolt. BMW do a special tool to allow you to torque it up with a wrench while still having the hex key in - but you can just use a 21mm ring spanner and do it TIGHT

 

[CdnGSer]

Thanks all. mikeyboy got it right. Upon holding the nut at the bottom that joins on the upper clamp pin, it turns out the threads are/were stripped hence the constant turning. I believe someone (PO?) tried to tighten/loosen this pin/bolt assembly in the past. The bike was in a tipover. Previous owner hit a bear (yes, a black bear) in northern Canada. Impact on the right side. Bear's head contacted with right engine guard. Guard did its job. Guard f'ed up and bear dead. Bike went down but was rideable. Fast forward a couple of months, PO cant be bothered with the full repair on an 2002 GS. I bought it.
I replaced the centre pivot bolt, bearing and nut in the frame/upper clamp assembly. All good. Continuing on with the repair.
Thanks again for all who responded and I appreciate your input.