05 1150 gsa not starting

Good call Ian. I did miss the top hidden screw. I have a spare right hand switch, will see to replace it if necessary.

In addition to no-crank, I also have a crank but engine does not fire up situation. It usually happens when the bike is parked side stand for hours. It happened again this evening. Start button when pressed on, cranked but no firing up. Bike was on side stand and once lifted to its main stand, it fired up immediately. I went to look into side stand switch and noticed part of the sheath to the wires is gone. Any write up/link on how to bypass or even better to replace one. The wires seemed to sneak behind the starter motor.
Ok try this.

Put the bike on the centre stand, bike in neutral and ignition on. You should hear the fuel pump prime. Now move the side stand up and down a few times. If you hear the fuel pump priming during the up down movement of the side stand, which it shouldn’t, then you have a faulty side stand switch.

Now put the bike in gear, and repeat the side stand procedure. You should hear the fuel pump prime only when you move the side stand from half way to fully up.

This is the correct functioning of the side stand switch.

Damaged outer sheathing isn’t good, because it allows moisture into the wiring. Particularly down near the switch which gets dirty most of the time. Replacing the switch is a relatively simple task, made unnecessarily difficult by the build of the bike. The switch and wiring harness is a complete assembly. The switch is held on the side stand by a ‘C’ clip. the harness is routed behind the starter motor up to the connector which is cable tied to the left had side frame tube, so your likely going to have to lift the fuel tank to get to it.IMG_0494.jpeg
 
Morning Ian and all,
I swung the side stand (SS) to test on the fuel pump priming, it seems to be a working piece. Anyhow, the bike has been on its main for the night and no go. Cranked but no fire. Very possibly not the SS switch after all. The earlier observation, the jerk from mounting the bike from SS to main to start may also mean something was loose.
This discussion has led me to focus checking more thoroughly on the relays : 1. Starter relay (for intermittent cranking) and 2. fuel pump relay (for crank but no fire).
I unscrewed the fusebox and looked into the wiring connected to both relays, did some light sanding and de-ox them, both relays and the respective terminals and button them up. It works (fingers crossed). I will let it on SS for the nite to monitor.
Also if you look into the pic, I had cluttered wirings ie Skene module and wirings and spare fuses before in the neighbouring pocket. That might have pushed the relay wirings away from proper contact. Have repacked them and i'll report here tomorrow on it goes.

Thank you for the leads here.






 
Morning Ian and all,
I swung the side stand (SS) to test on the fuel pump priming, it seems to be a working piece. Anyhow, the bike has been on its main for the night and no go. Cranked but no fire. Very possibly not the SS switch after all. The earlier observation, the jerk from mounting the bike from SS to main to start may also mean something was loose.
This discussion has led me to focus checking more thoroughly on the relays : 1. Starter relay (for intermittent cranking) and 2. fuel pump relay (for crank but no fire).
I unscrewed the fusebox and looked into the wiring connected to both relays, did some light sanding and de-ox them, both relays and the respective terminals and button them up. It works (fingers crossed). I will let it on SS for the nite to monitor.
Also if you look into the pic, I had cluttered wirings ie Skene module and wirings and spare fuses before in the neighbouring pocket. That might have pushed the relay wirings away from proper contact. Have repacked them and i'll report here tomorrow on it goes.

Thank you for the leads here.






 
To report back on the fix of relays and wirings to solve ignition issue. The ignition is on course and fires with regularity. Tested the both relays (starter and fuel pump) for clicks and resistance between pin 85 and 86 and when energised with a 12v battery, pin 30 and 87 shows continuity (for starter relay). Should it fail again, i'll be getting into the terminals at the relay socket base.
 
Reporting back on my issue of erratic starting.
Having gone through a long list of checks and parts replacement, what finally got it running as normal was a replacement of the (used) ECU.
It starts smooth now, even from cold. Am just so glad the ordeal is over.
Thanks all for writing in with ideas.
 


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