06 GSA steering lock issues

[Shep]

On Sunday my GSA suffered steering lock failure, seems the figure being bandied about by the dealer is between £700 & £800 to repair The ign lock and bracket/top yolk seeming to be needed to be replaced.

Seems a bit extreme to me.

Who knows whats involved in replacing the parts

Shep

 

[Shep]

Just me then?

 

[Wapping]

Just me then?

On your own, brother.

But, didn't Marcus of this parish publish a lengthy diatribe on the steering lock etc?

I would have thought it worthwhile ringing up a couple of dealers for an alternative quote. Even 5 to 10% off would be a reasonable cash saving.

 

[Shep]

Not covered under the extended warrantee either, which is a bummer.

In a way it would be nice if they found some evidence of it being forced at least I could try the insurance route. But as yet there is no mention of why it failed. I used the bike in the morning and after lunch went to move it and allthough the ign worked OK The steering lock failed to unlatch.

The dealer, who is being nice (as always), is going to try for a goodwill agreement with BMW so fingers crossed for a positive outcome.

Shep

 

[Sir James]

Almost forgot .............

Hope this ease's the bill

 

[Shep]

Almost forgot .............

Hope this ease's the bill

Cheers

Shep

 

[Wapping]

Not covered under the extended warrantee either, which is a bummer.

The dealer, who is being nice (as always), is going to try for a goodwill agreement with BMW so fingers crossed for a positive outcome.

Shep

It's interesting (sort of) that lock failure is not covered.

It does seem like a lot of money and bits to replace. I haven't taken the ignition assembly apart on a 1200GS but isn't the steering lock a simple mechanical pin, which engages against a lug or stop on the yoke?

Surely it means just lifting out the old barrel assembly, then re-keying a new barrel? The ignition sequence itself is controlled by the EWS ring which is, I assume, undamaged?

 

[Shep]

Apparantly the EWS ring assy is covered under the warrantee but not the steering lock and yolk which according to the dealer will need to be replaced due to needing to drill the security bolts out. (as does the EWS ring)

Again without the bike in front of me its difficult to imagine the extent of the work but having changed steering lock/column assemblies in cars before, the drilling has never proved to be a problem using the right equipment.

It may be a case of weather the dealer/engineer is prepared to drill the old bolts out (a destructive process if it all goes wrong) rather than just replace parts (dead easy with little chance of problems)

We'll see what happens now

Shep

 

[Wapping]

Apparantly the EWS ring assy is covered under the warrantee but not the steering lock and yolk which according to the dealer will need to be replaced due to needing to drill the security bolts out. (as does the EWS ring)

Again without the bike in front of me its difficult to imagine the extent of the work but having changed steering lock/column assemblies in cars before, the drilling has never proved to be a problem using the right equipment.

It may be a case of weather the dealer/engineer is prepared to drill the old bolts out (a destructive process if it all goes wrong) rather than just replace parts (dead easy with little chance of problems)

We'll see what happens now

Shep

This doesn't seem quite right, Shep. Though I don't doubt you.

BuMW are replacing some / lots of EWS rings under a recall programme.

They built a little jig thing to speed the removal of the security bolts, I think?

Is the dealer saying that, when they drill the security bolts out as a part of the EWS recall work, they are having to replace other (very expensive) parts the drilling process damages as well?

Seems odd to me.... but so does dreaming up alternative methods of assessing the depth of oil on a 1200GS

 

[Pukmeister]

Would patience, a steady hand and a Dremel do the trick ??

If the shear-headed bolts have to be drilled out, so what? I can't see why that would necessitate a new top yoke or so much expense?

 

[Myke Rocks]

Steering lock bolts

Because I was afraid of antenna failure whilst away, I drilled out the 2 security bolts (took 5 mins) & replaced with stainless allen screws.
To change antenna is now a 10 min job.
Not worried about anti theft, becuse the bike is unstealable without key.
Myke

 

[patzx12]

All ignition switches have security shear bolts cars and bikes.
Dead easy to remove with a chisel or punch,
The ignition barrel can be changed and its easy for a mechanic to recode for a new key.
The only difference from say coding a topbox lock is that you have to withdraw a long brass pin before you take out the plates.
I think its just a case of service technitionitis, dont mess with anything or get involved in any type of engineering just change the whole thing (bolt off bolt on).

 

[Wapping]

Well, Shep, BuMW are right that failure of the material (barrel, pins etc) of the ignition itself is NOT covered by BuMW's extended warranty but failure of the EWS ring is covered.

Now all you have to do is question why removal of the security bolts does so much collateral damage. An innocent 'phone call around a couple of alternative main dealers and maybe an independent or two may well save you a significant slug of £800. Or, it's goodwill time.

Good hunting.

 

[SiMo]

I recently had a similar although not identical problem: see http://www.ukgser.com/forums/showthread.php?t=182124&highlight=steering+lock

The Emergency Service engineer confirmed that BMW have a special tool (!) for removing the assembly (because of the shear bolts) - but he knew a workaround and removed it, cleaned it all out, released the "stuck" lock, and put it all back together.

I had it checked out as he suggested by Battersea when it had its annual service - they found nothing wrong. So it would appear you can take it apart and put it back together again.

 

[Pukmeister]

This might be a stupid suggestion as its off the top of my head, but if you can see the detent pin why not spray some WD40 or similar lubricant/penetrant then try and get a thin blade between the detent pin and lock stop and free it up ??

Worth a look Shep?

 

[Shep]

This might be a stupid suggestion as its off the top of my head, but if you can see the detent pin why not spray some WD40 or similar lubricant/penetrant then try and get a thin blade between the detent pin and lock stop and free it up ??

Worth a look Shep?

The bikes at the dealers at the moment so I can't fiddle now, but when I was waiting for the truck I had a feel around for the locks pin, the pin was retracting by most of its travel but the steering was still locked, i didn't fancy forcing anything after reading about others problems with damage to the area in the past.

I'll give the dealer a ring today to check any developments

Cheer all

Shep

 

[Shep]

Just been in contact and it appears the top yolk was going to be changed due to cosmetic damage around the ign area, OK in an insurance job but certainly not if I have to pay, it will just have to do, scratch or no scratch

Still in talks with BWM over a goodwill gesture, fingers crossed

Shep

 

[Pukmeister]

Good luck with the goodwill gesture Shep, I just took a look at mine and I bet with some plusgas and a home made tool eg bent length of rod plus a wooden block for a fulcrum, you could get the detent plunger to fully retract from the indent (maybe with a slight wiggle of the bars against the lockstop too). I bet yours is a simple case of some dirt build up in the body of the detent plunger.

I was surprised how much road dirt etc had built up around mine, all cleaned now with some WD40 so hopefully I won't share the same problem.

 

[Shep]

Good luck with the goodwill gesture Shep, I just took a look at mine and I bet with some plusgas and a home made tool eg bent length of rod plus a wooden block for a fulcrum, you could get the detent plunger to fully retract from the indent (maybe with a slight wiggle of the bars against the lockstop too). I bet yours is a simple case of some dirt build up in the body of the detent plunger.

I was surprised how much road dirt etc had built up around mine, all cleaned now with some WD40 so hopefully I won't share the same problem.

The locking plunger is very free to move it's just that the tumbler has lost its connection to it, with the key in the 'unlocked' position i can manually retract the pin with my finger but there is someting inside the lock that is preventing the full retraction, i'd take a guess that its the piece that connects the pin and the tumbler has become disconected/broken and has fallen behing the pin preventing its full movement.

Fingers still crossed

Shep

 

[Pukmeister]

All becomes clear.