100gs ignition failure help!!

[how much for a service!]

Well got the old girl out the garage fired up straight
Away as usual did about 2 miles engine cut out completely
With a bit of coaxing it started again and off I went
It cut out again 3 times in the next 3 miles stopped in a car park
For about an hour went shopping. Then it refused to start, checked no spark
Called recovery and he gave it a good going over and says "feed to coils, and amplifier suspect Hall effect sensor chip
Am stuck in Dorset and was thinking of getting it to CW in Dorchester
Question I suppose is could it be some thing else? Are standard bean cans still available and how much? And has anyone ever fitted a alpha v2 ignition system as they do a version for twin spark heads?
Sorry for rambling on!
Cheers

 

[Rob Farmer]

Have you had the front engine cover off? If you have make sure you haven't trapped the bean can wire.

 

[Kenny]

Long shot...the wiring harness between the top mudguard and bottom yoke can pinch/sever the wires...are the ignition lights etc coming on?

 

[Beemerboff]

Long shot two - it could be in the ignition switch itself - have a look at the back of the switch and see if the black plastic end is loose in the crimps.

If it is try and find a good second hand one - current manufacture new stock last about six months .

FWIW a new LH switch lasted around six flicks---.

 

[how much for a service!]

Have you had the front engine cover off? If you have make sure you haven't trapped the bean can wire.

front cover only taken off after failure it did get about 3 hours of torrential rain and wind riding just before Christmas but as I say started up fine?
cheers

 

[how much for a service!]

Long shot...the wiring harness between the top mudguard and bottom yoke can pinch/sever the wires...are the ignition lights etc coming on?

yes ignition lights coming on fine engine turning over fine
will check wiring under bottom yoke recently fitter hid light and may have didturbed something
thanks for your help

 

[Rob Farmer]

If you are running twin plugs then the cheapest option is a Boyer. It would need your old bean can gutting to fit the boyer plate. Motorworks are selling the electronic direct replacement (same as the single spark alpha) for £220 http://www.motorworks.co.uk/vlive/Shop/Parts.php?T=6&Q= ELA44087

 

[how much for a service!]

If you are running twin plugs then the cheapest option is a Boyer. It would need your old bean can gutting to fit the boyer plate. Motorworks are selling the electronic direct replacement (same as the single spark alpha) for £220 http://www.motorworks.co.uk/vlive/Shop/Parts.php?T=6&Q= ELA44087

great thanks Rob

 

[how much for a service!]

If you are running twin plugs then the cheapest option is a Boyer. It would need your old bean can gutting to fit the boyer plate. Motorworks are selling the electronic direct replacement (same as the single spark alpha) for £220 http://www.motorworks.co.uk/vlive/Shop/Parts.php?T=6&Q= ELA44087

Rob
had the motorworks unit fitted for a while now but starting the bike is not as easy ad it was and seems very lumpy a

t low revs not sure the guy who fitted got the timing right, I assume that the ignition timing has to be adjusted as with the old bean can?

 

[Wrigsby1]

I fitted a Motorworks version and due to the timing light not working with the correct HT lead I just set it by ear, which was very easy to do... Not exactly high tech these old tractors...

I will try it again at some point but the timing light works great with the wrong pot to set the timing...

 

[how much for a service!]

I fitted a Motorworks version and due to the timing light not working with the correct HT lead I just set it by ear, which was very easy to do... Not exactly high tech these old tractors...

I will try it again at some point but the timing light works great with the wrong pot to set the timing...

Thanks will give that a go trouble is the more I read on the net about twin spark the more paranoid I get!