fayeslane
Registered user
Just got my R100GSPD back on the road again after a top end rebuild and a few other jobs. Work was prompted by leaking pushrod seals and compression at the low end of the scale.
WHAT I DID
New valves & valve guides (inlet & ex)
New rings
Tidied up the ports (polished ex and piston top)
New timing chain and guides
Completely rebuilt both carbies -all new jets etc
Thunderchild diode board
Re painted rocker covers, starter motor cover, crash bars, oil cooler, frame where accessible with motor in situ
Bead blasted extensively (have my own
)
Removed loose shit from muffler
HEL 320mm disk
WHAT I LEARNT
Air head motors are easy to work on (have done a couple of Jap 4 cylinders before but not an airhead)
Airhead parts are relatively cheap if you shop around, most of mine were from Motobins
Double check that you have all the required parts on hand before you start thus avoiding delays)
Piston rings are brittle, ring compressors are cheap (had one for 2nd piston)
I didn't really need to replace the inlet valves and guides but decided to anyway.
Timing chain was still good but replaced anyway -cheap. I reckon the chain would yell out when it needs replacing
When replacing the throttle shaft o-rings I would also replace the throttle shafts. They are cheap and it saves pissing about trying to file the peening off the butterfly screws which doesn't always guarantee you won't strip the thread -depends on how they have been peened.
WHAT IT'S LIKE
This was always a smooth motor and still is.
Happily revs to 7000rpm.
The engine might be a bit crisper, but nothing significant, still no fire cracker
.
Will be interested to note fuel consumption -was getting 400kms from the 35 l tank.
HEL 320mm brake is better under heavy braking but currently has too much lever travel before anything significant happens. With 2 finger braking the lever hits your other fingers before there is major retardation. Will change the fluid today. I should add that I am using a 1150 4 pot caliper and a braided line.
OVERALL
I am happy that I have done all of the above even though I could have saved a few bucks on the timing chain and the inlets. Having done this work and had a look inside I know that the engine is pretty good at 100K kms whereas before I didn't know its history.
I will be disappointed if I can't get some better feel from the front brake.
With all the blasting, polishing and painting it has come up a treat
I still think I will buy another more powerful & better braked bike for everyday use but would like to have the same riding position and feel as the PD.
WHAT I DID
New valves & valve guides (inlet & ex)
New rings
Tidied up the ports (polished ex and piston top)
New timing chain and guides
Completely rebuilt both carbies -all new jets etc
Thunderchild diode board
Re painted rocker covers, starter motor cover, crash bars, oil cooler, frame where accessible with motor in situ
Bead blasted extensively (have my own
)Removed loose shit from muffler
HEL 320mm disk
WHAT I LEARNT
Air head motors are easy to work on
(have done a couple of Jap 4 cylinders before but not an airhead)Airhead parts are relatively cheap if you shop around, most of mine were from Motobins
Double check that you have all the required parts on hand before you start thus avoiding delays)
Piston rings are brittle, ring compressors are cheap (had one for 2nd piston
)I didn't really need to replace the inlet valves and guides but decided to anyway.
Timing chain was still good but replaced anyway -cheap. I reckon the chain would yell out when it needs replacing
When replacing the throttle shaft o-rings I would also replace the throttle shafts. They are cheap and it saves pissing about trying to file the peening off the butterfly screws which doesn't always guarantee you won't strip the thread -depends on how they have been peened.
WHAT IT'S LIKE
This was always a smooth motor and still is.
Happily revs to 7000rpm.
The engine might be a bit crisper, but nothing significant, still no fire cracker
. Will be interested to note fuel consumption -was getting 400kms from the 35 l tank.
HEL 320mm brake is better under heavy braking but currently has too much lever travel before anything significant happens. With 2 finger braking the lever hits your other fingers before there is major retardation. Will change the fluid today. I should add that I am using a 1150 4 pot caliper and a braided line.
OVERALL
I am happy that I have done all of the above even though I could have saved a few bucks on the timing chain and the inlets. Having done this work and had a look inside I know that the engine is pretty good at 100K kms whereas before I didn't know its history.
I will be disappointed if I can't get some better feel from the front brake.
With all the blasting, polishing and painting it has come up a treat
I still think I will buy another more powerful & better braked bike for everyday use but would like to have the same riding position and feel as the PD.
)
