100w Bulb replacement for full beam?

[austen_gs]

I've seen the 100w H7 bulbs for sale, and just wondered if these would be ok for the full beam? I wouldnt use one for the the dip beam as it is on constantly (and i have a HID kit fitted anyway) and would probably melt stuff. The full beam is only ever on for for short periods so assume it would be OK. Anyone thoughts/expirience?

 

[v8legend]

It could be worth trying. You're already aware of potential heat problems, so just keep an eye on it.

Having said that, I think you're better off going for one of the high lumen bulbs like the Philips X-treme.

http://www.powerbulbs.com/product/philips-xtreme-vision-h7-car-headlight-bulbs

Or even the Halfords version which comes out well in tests.

http://www.powerbulbs.com/product/philips-xtreme-vision-h7-car-headlight-bulbs

I know you don't need 2, so keep one as a spare, or split it with a mate.

 

[thomo57]

It could be worth trying. You're already aware of potential heat problems, so just keep an eye on it.

Having said that, I think you're better off going for one of the high lumen bulbs like the Philips X-treme.

http://www.powerbulbs.com/product/philips-xtreme-vision-h7-car-headlight-bulbs

Or even the Halfords version which comes out well in tests.

http://www.powerbulbs.com/product/philips-xtreme-vision-h7-car-headlight-bulbs

I know you don't need 2, so keep one as a spare, or split it with a mate.

I was using the Philips Extreme bulb, I had several!!... that was the problem, they are bright but did'nt last very long - less than 4K .
I'm now on the Osram Night Breaker, has outlasted them all and a bit cheaper.

http://www.powerbulbs.com/product/osram-night-breaker-nightbreaker-plus-h7-two-bulbs

 

[Smythson]

Ditto on the Night Breakers - 6.5k so far...

S

 

[BillWright]

Not that anyone would find out (hopefully) but bulbs over 60w are illegal for road use

Bill

 

[Sooty09]

I have had been riding bikes for 40 years. 12 volts was a big improvement and the Bosch H4 7" headlamp was about as good as it gets. Since then I have noticed people want to ride in the dark just as they do in the daylight by fitting HID and spot lights etc. I rarely ride after dark, when I do I just accept I must ride slower, HID and super bright LEDs are a real problem if incorrectly adjusted, and by dazzling from the front or in your mirrors constitute a safety hazard.
Ride safe, ride slower, lots of light is not going to help much if you dazzle the car or lorry driving towards you.

 

[austen_gs]

Bought one of the vision style bulbs mentioned above, the halfords version thats supposed to give 90% more light. It has made a small improvement, but think it proves the reflector is the problem, not throwing the light up the road far enough. Very glad i didnt spend the money on a HID kit for the main beam now!!! At least (HID mainly) its acceptable now, i can actually see infront of me on the B roads on my daily commute.

Sooty, i wish i didnt have to ride in the dark, but starting work at 7am, and finishing at 5.30, means i am in the dark for 6 months of the year . I've not had a single car flash me since fitting the HID kit, although i do notice the car directly infront of me dips their mirror when i'm close, but a lot of thats to do with the height of the bike, i noticed the same when i used to have my Tiger 955i, and that only had a normal halogen bulb.

 

[Bury_Dave]

I have had been riding bikes for 40 years. 12 volts was a big improvement and the Bosch H4 7" headlamp was about as good as it gets. Since then I have noticed people want to ride in the dark just as they do in the daylight by fitting HID and spot lights etc. I rarely ride after dark, when I do I just accept I must ride slower, HID and super bright LEDs are a real problem if incorrectly adjusted, and by dazzling from the front or in your mirrors constitute a safety hazard.
Ride safe, ride slower, lots of light is not going to help much if you dazzle the car or lorry driving towards you.

+1 But I am in the same, fortunate, position as yourself: night riding is not something i HAVE to do. I can see it from the point of view of the rider who only has a bike and rides all year 'round.

Just look at the love em or hate em HID and auxiliary/fog lights threads and how useful/much of a nuisance they are ! I would agree though that a lot of the problem is the reflector.

As with many things in life, 1200 Vs 800 GS's included, more is not always better Lumens are the same.

Dave

 

[DrFarkoff]

PLastic headlamps don.t like Lots of heat IF you're not happy fit spots

 

[Beemerman59]

I do a lot of night riding and much of it on B roads where the hazards are four legged rather than four wheeled. I have spent a lot of faffing about trying to get a good set up that works for me. I am just finishing up the latest combination:

OEM Dip Beam - 55w HID
OEM High Beam - 55w Philips Xtreme Halogen
OEM Auxiliary Lights - 35w HID
Hella FF50 Spots - 55w HID

I have fitted a handlebar switch to isolate the FF50's during the day as I don't like the idea of these being used to "flash" oncoming traffic - just don't think its good for the burners which take a few seconds to warm up. I did have a 55w HID fitted to the OEM Hi beam as well however, as others have said, the reflector is a big limitation. I can't tell if it's on or not it's so bad. The Hella's were better than that even with standard Halogen so with a kick from the HID's I'm expecting a huge improvement. And I don't get flashed at all by oncoming traffic and I never have the Aux lights on at night unless it's foggy.

 

[Bury_Dave]

I never have the Aux lights on at night unless it's foggy.

But surely they are supposed to be on all the time to show everyone what an Adventure Motorcyclist you really are ?

Seriously though, you sound like you have a good set up that is flexible to suit conditions. Not like the drivers who put fog lights on in October and leave them on until someone smashes them the following May.

Thankfully I don't have to ride all the time. Been cold and wet most of my working life and happy not to have to be when i don't want to.

 

[v8legend]

Bought one of the vision style bulbs mentioned above, the halfords version thats supposed to give 90% more light. It has made a small improvement.

I had these, then moved on to the Halfords Ultra Brilliance plus 120%. I can't believe the difference. It's hard to believe, but my lights are now better than my Transporter! I got these on a BOGOF from Halfords, the best £30 I've spent on the bike.

HID's (with all their heat problems) would have to be really good to beat these.

 

[Timolgra]

It's hard to believe, but my lights are now better than my Transporter!

The lights on my T4 Transporter were awful so fitted a wiring loom (£30) which eliminates the voltage drop, they're available via the T4 forum.

Then fitted 100w white bulbs and the lights are fantastic now

 

[v8legend]

The lights on my T4 Transporter were awful so fitted a wiring loom (£30) which eliminates the voltage drop, they're available via the T4 forum.

Thanks for that, I'll have a look. Mines an 09 T5. Lights are actually quite good, just not as good as my 800 now with the bulbs from Halfords.

 

[Greggers]

Hopefully those Halfords bulbs will last ... let us know!


From experience, HID is unbeatable - until the higher wattage units fry your reflector - v. expensive!!

HID on main beam is a dead loss - don't bother with this unless you know you are likely to spend a lot of time on main. The length of time they take to come to full output is waaaaay too long, it's not instant (apart from the initial spike) and even the 'fast' or 'digital' ballasts take 5-6 seconds before they're warm enough for full output.

G

 

[Timolgra]

Hopefully those Halfords bulbs will last ... let us know!


From experience, HID is unbeatable - until the higher wattage units fry your reflector - v. expensive!!

HID on main beam is a dead loss - don't bother with this unless you know you are likely to spend a lot of time on main. The length of time they take to come to full output is waaaaay too long, it's not instant (apart from the initial spike) and even the 'fast' or 'digital' ballasts take 5-6 seconds before they're warm enough for full output.

G

I have a HID dip/main in the bike lamp then........ when I want instant

 

[Greggers]

how much does that set up increase your coefficient of drag??

Seriously though I had a Hi/Lo H4 set up in my ole R1100RT - worked brilliantly..

I have a set of PIAA aux driving spots in the garage that I hung on the 800 and was disappointed by them - odd cos they're supposed to be the bollox!

Interesting about your T4 experiences though - mine (a 2000 2.5 TDI longnose) have always seemed ok to me, but why didn't you just use a switching relay ??

 

[cookie]

Hopefully those Halfords bulbs will last ... let us know!


From experience, HID is unbeatable - until the higher wattage units fry your reflector - v. expensive!!

HID on main beam is a dead loss - don't bother with this unless you know you are likely to spend a lot of time on main. The length of time they take to come to full output is waaaaay too long, it's not instant (apart from the initial spike) and even the 'fast' or 'digital' ballasts take 5-6 seconds before they're warm enough for full output.

G

On the contrary, i think HID is essential on main beam. If you have dip low enough not to dazzle oncoming vehicles, you'll be wanting to use main beam and tungsten over HID dip would be invisible.

IME it's only the initial use that takes a few seconds to reach full brightness. After that, it's pretty much instantaneous.

 

[Greggers]

Mine were positively dangerous! If you're on and off the main beam yes I'd agree, but if the 'bulb' cools down it takes time again to warm up ...

IFAIK it's something to do with the halide crystals in the burner - the initial strike is quite bright, but the excited plasma that makes the light takes a while to be completely generated buy the current going through the burner.. if you have spare time (LOL) clickeddylinkeddy.. The car industry has the answer




An automotive grade ballast often delivers boosted power (above 35 watts) at some times during warmup to give near-full light output. Note that a xenon arc or a mercury vapor arc does not produce visible light as efficiently as a metal halide arc does. Automotive grade ballasts with boosted power at some points of warmup have circuitry that models the thermal characteristics of the bulb. The maximum safe current for the bulb's electrodes must not be exceeded during a power boost during warmup.

 

[v8legend]

Hopefully those Halfords bulbs will last ... let us know!G

That's the great thing with 2 H7's. If your dip blows just swap it for the main.