100w Bulb replacement for full beam?

[cookie]

Mine were positively dangerous! If you're on and off the main beam yes I'd agree, but if the 'bulb' cools down it takes time again to warm up ...

i don't really understand the "dangerous" bit, even if they take as long to reach maximum brightness as you've experienced.

i'm failing to think of a single example where that could be dangerous

example: a country road at night.
you'd either be driving within the capabilities of dip, so no problem, or going fast enough to need main, in which case the dangerous bit is when you switch to dip for an oncoming vehicle. since main was on only seconds ago, it will come to full intensity immediately.

for it to be a problem, you'd need to be riding on the limits of dip for a long period, then very suddenly have to switch to main for some vital reason that eludes me.

i don't count flashing other vehicles as vital.


i'm mystified. done thousands of miles on HIDs without slow main beam ever giving me a problem. yes, it would be nicer if it was quicker sometimes, but hardly dangerous. give me an example.

 

[Beemerman59]

If it's dangerous at all, it's when you turn off your main beam not when you turn it on. Cookie's right in that when you go from dip to main beam you should be riding within the limitations of what you can see with the light you have. However, when you go from main beam (especially if you are all HID and may have extra HID spots) back down to dip i.e with oncoming traffic, you are turning off all the candlepower but still going at the same pace previously afforded by main beam. In this context you need to anticipate and slow down before turning off main beam.

I have 55w HID dip, Halaogen main, 55w HID ff50 spots which are switchable on/off with a handelbar switch. I must have tried every combination by now and this is the best for me.

 

[Timolgra]

I don't like HID on main beam with separate lights.

My KTM 640 came with this arrangement and there are times when I find the delay 'disconcerting' so shall wire the lights so dip stays on when switching to main beam, instead of being plunged into darkness at the very moment you need light!

 

[Fanum]

Fitting 100w bulbs in a crap lamp to get more light is like fitting a 500cc engine in a c90 because it doesn't go fast enough

 

[rodders]

fitting a 500cc engine in a c90 because it doesn't go fast enough

sounds like FUN

 

[Timolgra]

Fitting 100w bulbs in a crap lamp to get more light is like fitting a 500cc engine in a c90 because it doesn't go fast enough

But much cheaper

 

[Fanum]

But much cheaper

Cheap does nor equal value for money, or wiseness

 

[Fanum]

Wiseness? WTF

 

[Timpo]

100w lamps should be avoided as the handlebar switch gear contacts will not tolerate excessive heat, eventually melting the plastic around the switch internals.

 

[Fanum]

100w lamps should be avoided as the handlebar switch gear contacts will not tolerate excessive heat, eventually melting the plastic around the switch internals.

Shirley they run through a relay, so that wouldn't be happening?

Or were you taking the ......ahhhhhhh.

 

[Timpo]

Shirley they run through a relay, so that wouldn't be happening?

Or were you taking the ......ahhhhhhh.

I don't think any of the 11 bikes I have in my garage use a relay on the lighting system.
Next week I am looking at an Aprilia that has had 100w lamp fitted in the past, the handlebar switch gear is burnt. There is no relay on that bike either.

And why would I take the ahhhhhh? I'm trying to prevent people making a mistake that could be very expensive to repair.

 

[Fanum]

I don't think any of the 11 bikes I have in my garage use a relay on the lighting system.
Next week I am looking at an Aprilia that has had 100w lamp fitted in the past, the handlebar switch gear is burnt. There is no relay on that bike either.

And why would I take the ahhhhhh? I'm trying to prevent people making a mistake that could be very expensive to repair.

Sorry.

I hadn't even looked TBH, I've just kind of assumed that most bikes would use a relay to take the higher amperage to the lights.......assuming that was correct, I wasn't sure if you were taking the pee or not.

If you're right (and I have no reason to suspect otherwise apart from my own assumption) then yes, it's another good reason not to fit them

 

[cookie]

I don't like HID on main beam with separate lights.

My KTM 640 came with this arrangement and there are times when I find the delay 'disconcerting' so shall wire the lights so dip stays on when switching to main beam, instead of being plunged into darkness at the very moment you need light!

now that would be dangerous. fortunately my 1200 does not do something so daft.
that's the sort of behaviour i'd expect of an ancient european two stroke.

 

[Greggers]

i don't really understand the "dangerous" bit, even if they take as long to reach maximum brightness as you've experienced.

i'm failing to think of a single example where that could be dangerous

example: a country road at night.
you'd either be driving within the capabilities of dip, so no problem, or going fast enough to need main, in which case the dangerous bit is when you switch to dip for an oncoming vehicle. since main was on only seconds ago, it will come to full intensity immediately.

for it to be a problem, you'd need to be riding on the limits of dip for a long period, then very suddenly have to switch to main for some vital reason that eludes me.

i don't count flashing other vehicles as vital.


i'm mystified. done thousands of miles on HIDs without slow main beam ever giving me a problem. yes, it would be nicer if it was quicker sometimes, but hardly dangerous. give me an example.

It's a comfort thing - I'm not perfect !

I had the older kit on the bike - the ones that dazzled oncomers so had the dip set a bit lower than I'd like, but the 800's dip and main aren't independently adjustable so I'd occasionally like to throw a beam into a dark corner just to see what was there ... Remembering how the RT remained virtually horizontal irrespective of how hard the brakes were applied - I rarely needed main then as the dip threw as much light as I needed up the road.

I put the incandescent kit back onto my dip beam on account of the burned reflector, but will prolly re-fit the HID with a projector adaptation of some sort ...

 

[Timolgra]

I don't think any of the 11 bikes I have in my garage use a relay on the lighting system.
Next week I am looking at an Aprilia that has had 100w lamp fitted in the past, the handlebar switch gear is burnt. There is no relay on that bike either.

And why would I take the ahhhhhh? I'm trying to prevent people making a mistake that could be very expensive to repair.

Only slightly off topic mate, but the uprated lighting loom on my T4 uses relays to the lights, fused individually and obviously triggered by the switch....I hope! but that wasn't the intention of the loom, it was to avoid the voltage drop they get.

I certainly wouldn't risk 1 or 2x100w through the switches either.

Good post though as the banter could have been confusing at best

 

[Timpo]

I certainly wouldn't risk 1 or 2x100w through the switches either.

and as 4-wheelers have been mentioned, another real sufferer of heat damage due to higher powered lamps fitted, Land Rover Defender. This vehicle burns the moulding holding the hi/lo beam and indicator stalk. i've repaired a few of these too now. It also causes the plug on tge rear of the headlight to char and turn brittle.

 

[WeeBriso]

I have had been riding bikes for 40 years. 12 volts was a big improvement and the Bosch H4 7" headlamp was about as good as it gets. Since then I have noticed people want to ride in the dark just as they do in the daylight by fitting HID and spot lights etc. I rarely ride after dark, when I do I just accept I must ride slower, HID and super bright LEDs are a real problem if incorrectly adjusted, and by dazzling from the front or in your mirrors constitute a safety hazard.
Ride safe, ride slower, lots of light is not going to help much if you dazzle the car or lorry driving towards you.

I agree

 

[Timolgra]

I have had been riding bikes for 40 years.

Then you'll remember Lucas, the Prince of Darkness

 

[cristhemuso]

Make sure you buy the motorcycle versions and not the car versions because the vibration will break the filaments. The brightest bulbs are for cars and will fail really quick on a motorcycle. The bike ones are not quite as bright because they are mechanically tougher. There is a difference and they are available honest. My first one lasted over 10k miles.