10K and its fcukd again.... Ignition cable

[richie]

Took me a while to figure out last time that my ignition cable was cream crackered. Anyhow problem started again after 10000KM is this acceptable, and after all the effort I made to zip tie it in a way that would supposedly stop it from being tugged again...
At the moment when the bike won't start all I have to do is turn the bars and then its OK. But I suppose I'll have to fix it or buy another one...

 

[reyno]

Hi Richie, my 1100 broke the red wire to the ign switch a few weeks back, i have repaired it and now ok, but time will tell, i will take a photo of what i have done to avoid it happening again.
Post you soon with a few pics of my repair.
Brian.

 

[ferguscawley]

Richie

Just wonering if you cable-tied the thing too tightly and restricted the cable's movement somewhat ?. i.e the cable only had one place to bend when moving the bars. If so, this could have accelerated the wear on the conductor inside.

Ferg

 

[richie]

I am not sure its exactly the same problem. If I remeber last time the clock stayed on. This time it also is cut. This time moving the bars from side to side does not always cure the problem.

I have not been using the sidestand. So where are the other likely areas of cable strain?

 

[Steptoe]

don't cable tie any of the electric cables, i've taken all mine off , that includes the cable ties that hold everything around the bars & headstock area.

 

[richie]

Now that is an interesting idea. Maybe i'll give it a go. Thanks for your input Steptoe

 

[Smartbazza]

ignition wire

Richie,

before i bought my 1100 3 years ago i had read about this problem. when i inspected my bike the black outer casing had started to break so i wrapped it in electrical tape for the first 3inches from the ignition. this has stiffened this area up a bit and no further problems to date. well i`m convinced it helps. agree with steptoe with no cable ties near this area lets it move freely.

Barry

 

[(RIP) Jamie]

That's what I should after replacing ignition barrel.

The wear was right at the point the cable enters the barrel, so a fix was impossible, so I got a new bottom half of the ignition switch, £43 inc fitting.

Anyway, what I promised myslef I would do, was form a splint type thing under the barrel, then along the cable, just and inch or so, then tape it. So that any movement was moved along the cable away from the bottom of the barrel.

The theory behind was that any flex and subsequent wear could be more easily managed and repaired.

Worn out after 10K? Mine had done c.55K when it happened.

HTH

Jamie

 

[richie]

False alert, had a look under the tank and the battery connectors needed retightening.... Sorted....