1100 electrical problem

[ThreeDawg]

Wouldn't normally go straight to t'internet, but I am planning to take Junior over to the west coast on Saturday for an appointment and I can't risk not getting there.

The bike ('97 1100 GS) conked out a couple of times in town today. The RID flashed several times and the engine stopped, with the neutral light on but dim. Bike restarted, but then conked out once more - coming to a junction so I don't know if the RID flashed. Neutral light seemed OK, bike restarted and was fine getting home.

Sidestand switch seems fine.
Battery fully charged and charging at 13.7v.
Kill switch seems to operate normally.
Fuses all seem to be seated properly.
Battery connections all sound (battery is a reasonably new gel one)
Nothing is untoward when handlebars are turned lock to lock.
Ignition switch seems fine.


Dim neutral light is a bit of a mystery. Could it be a duff cell in the battery? Road was relatively smooth when it cut out, didn't seem to be related to hitting a pothole.

Be grateful for any suggestions.

 

[Pekkavee]

Check the hall sensor wirings. https://drive.google.com/file/d/1az2qpXIV_VlNkAlpMZG6rDgJZFuJVUIV/view?usp=drive_link

 

[ThreeDawg]

The HES is new (last year?) but I will check it, thanks for the suggestion.

 

[DrFarkoff]

If the RID went on and off when you moved the handlebars??

Check the ignition Switch Loom, Green wire

Usually breaks somewhere within 4 inches of the switch

 

[Larry Langford]

Wouldn't normally go straight to t'internet, but I am planning to take Junior over to the west coast on Saturday for an appointment and I can't risk not getting there.

The bike ('97 1100 GS) conked out a couple of times in town today. The RID flashed several times and the engine stopped, with the neutral light on but dim. Bike restarted, but then conked out once more - coming to a junction so I don't know if the RID flashed. Neutral light seemed OK, bike restarted and was fine getting home.

Sidestand switch seems fine.
Battery fully charged and charging at 13.7v.
Kill switch seems to operate normally.
Fuses all seem to be seated properly.
Battery connections all sound (battery is a reasonably new gel one)
Nothing is untoward when handlebars are turned lock to lock.
Ignition switch seems fine.


Dim neutral light is a bit of a mystery. Could it be a duff cell in the battery? Road was relatively smooth when it cut out, didn't seem to be related to hitting a pothole.

Be grateful for any suggestions.

I have a stupid question ....... What is the acronym RID ..... I;m not too familiar with this vintage of BMW, I rode my airhead for forty years or so .. lol

 

[DrFarkoff]

I have a stupid question ....... What is the acronym RID ..... I;m not too familiar with this vintage of BMW, I rode my airhead for forty years or so .. lol

Rider information display

 

[Larry Langford]

Rider information display

I knew it had something to do with that ..... Thanks DrFarkoff ..... looks like a tricky problem .....

 

[ThreeDawg]

If the RID went on and off when you moved the handlebars??

Check the ignition Switch Loom, Green wire

Usually breaks somewhere within 4 inches of the switch

I have given everything a good wiggle, can't replicate the problem in the garage. I will pay some more attention to the green wire though.

Only time I had something similar was when the regulator on my Laverda cooked the AGM battery and it stopped in the middle lane of the M6. Good job I was spanking along and made it to the hard shoulder. The bike started again in the recovery, but as soon as I hit another bump it died again. New battery and reg/rec fixed it.

 

[DrFarkoff]

I have given everything a good wiggle, can't replicate the problem in the garage. I will pay some more attention to the green wire though.

Only time I had something similar was when the regulator on my Laverda cooked the AGM battery and it stopped in the middle lane of the M6. Good job I was spanking along and made it to the hard shoulder. The bike started again in the recovery, but as soon as I hit another bump it died again. New battery and reg/rec fixed it.

The other things to look at

Ignition Switch contacts for corrosion / Verdigris

the communal earth point for instruments etc on the Wiring loom up to the clocks / idiot lights

 

[ynotbiker]

Follow the sidestand switch wire mine corroded just as the wire entered the bike.

 

[ThreeDawg]

Hmm, maybe the communal earth point needs looking at. Sidestand switch is fairly new.

 

[DrFarkoff]

Hmm, maybe the communal earth point needs looking at. Sidestand switch is fairly new.

the clues for me were the

RID cutting out ....That made me think Ign sub loom

Neutral Light Dim, made me think Communal earth

both of which are the worst faults to Find! #Intermittent

Both are VERY worthy of investigation if you intend to a do a long trip ?

Does your bike still have rubber brake lines fitted ?

Particularly The first connection, handlebar to the splitter / manifold at the head stock!

Grip the pipe where the metal crimp is on the rubber at the headstock and Hold the front brake on very hard and if it swells/bulges ? Get it changed ASAP that bulge can burst at the most critical of moments... Usually heavy urgent braking !!!

Back line to calliper can delaminate inside and become a one way valve and hold the pressure in the line and keep the rear calliper in the applied position

Hot disc / calliper / Possible wheel seize up!!

 

[ThreeDawg]

the clues for me were the

RID cutting out ....That made me think Ign sub loom

Neutral Light Dim, made me think Communal earth

both of which are the worst faults to Find! #Intermittent

Both are VERY worthy of investigation if you intend to a do a long trip ?

Does your bike still have rubber brake lines fitted ?

Particularly The first connection, handlebar to the splitter / manifold at the head stock!

Grip the pipe where the metal crimp is on the rubber at the headstock and Hold the front brake on very hard and if it swells/bulges ? Get it changed ASAP that bulge can burst at the most critical of moments... Usually heavy urgent braking !!!

Back line to calliper can delaminate inside and become a one way valve and hold the pressure in the line and keep the rear calliper in the applied position

Hot disc / calliper / Possible wheel seize up!!

I will see if I can chase anything down earth-wise.

Off for about 10 weeks to Spain and Portugal at the end of September, then the following year plan to fly the bike to Kyrgistan and ride it to Australia so a few miles in store. What a way to treat a 30 year old bike.

Brake lines all HEL stainless, done years ago.

 

[DrFarkoff]

@ThreeDawg

the ignition cutting power could actually be the switch interior

As usual BM did not do a great job of the water proofing !

 

[ThreeDawg]

Oh Lord, that's ugly.

 

[DrFarkoff]

Oh Lord, that's ugly.

It was buried in a K1200LT

If I recall correctly It was like an hour to get enough plastic off it to get in there!!!

It may even be worth just buying a new subloom and switch to negate the possibility of a failure or a wee spring pinging off into Narnia!!!

P.S. the screw on the 5p is the grub screw that holds the Switch up into the Ignition lock assembly Look for a red dot on the Ign lock about 5 o'clock looking down at the barrel

My grubby glove is pointing at the switch assembly

 

[Steptoe]

I will see if I can chase anything down earth-wise.

I’ve posted about the crimped earths in the instrument loom many times over the years.
It’s in the loom that runs from the instrument panel to under the tank. The shrouding is open at the end, water enters and can’t run out, it gathers in the bend in the loom.
And where it bends is where all the bare earths wires are crimped together, its turns into a green mush after a few years ..
cut the outer shrouding to check.

 

[ThreeDawg]

Hi Steptoe - do you mean have a look in the big bundle of wiring down by the alternator? I'm not seeing anything with an open end where water could get in

 

[DrFarkoff]

Hi Steptoe - do you mean have a look in the big bundle of wiring down by the alternator? I'm not seeing anything with an open end where water could get in

No he means smaller loom where it travels out to clocks on the central spar in front and offside

 

[ThreeDawg]

Ah, OK, thanks. The end of that has been sealed for a long time, but assuming I get to Skye and back tomorrow I will investigate.