1100, new battery, ran fine, now won't start.

MMC

MMC

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Ok, I'm stuck. It's electrical, so no surprise I'm stuck.

Installed a new Odyssey battery last weekend. Had to make up a positive terminal as the Oddy has horizontal terminals, unlike the vertical ones on the old batt.

All started and ran fine. Took the bike out, did 30 or so miles. No problems at all.

Tried to start the bike this evening. It cranks, but won't fire. Fuses and relays seem ok. I have a nasty feeling my home made terminal may have shorted on the tank underside and blown something, but don't know what it would blow.

Any suggestions of what I could try to get me closer to solving the problem? Already tried swearing and a large hammer.

Failing that, it's get the thing recovered to NOG. That's going to hurt. £££.
 
MMC said:
Ok, I'm stuck. It's electrical, so no surprise I'm stuck.

Installed a new Odyssey battery last weekend. Had to make up a positive terminal as the Oddy has horizontal terminals, unlike the vertical ones on the old batt.

All started and ran fine. Took the bike out, did 30 or so miles. No problems at all.

Tried to start the bike this evening. It cranks, but won't fire. Fuses and relays seem ok. I have a nasty feeling my home made terminal may have shorted on the tank underside and blown something, but don't know what it would blow.

Any suggestions of what I could try to get me closer to solving the problem? Already tried swearing and a large hammer.

Failing that, it's get the thing recovered to NOG. That's going to hurt. £££.
Click to expand...

If the lead had shorted to the tank then there would be scorch marks. The only things that would be affected are the leads themselves. The current would pass from the one battery terminal via the tank & frame back into the other side of the battery. No active components would be involved. The leads would bear the scars as there would be a lot of heat.

As your starter motor churns the battery must be fine. It sounds like you have a problem with the ignition circuit. Either one of the interlocks on the sidestand or clutch or perhaps one of the secondary leads on a battery terminal has come adrift.
 
Thanks Wessie. Appreciate it.

No scorch marks, thank goodness. So guessing the problem's somewhere else in the wiring or connectors as you say. Fuel pump priming OK, but the bike's not starting. I'll take a better look in daylight. A headtorch isn't much of a substitute. :D
 
Did you fully charge your new battery upon arrival? I'd be trying a jump start before your strip it down too much and that way you can eliminate your uncertainties about your installation.

Does the cranking speed sound about right?
 
Thanks John, Ditch.

Plenty of juice in both battery and tank. Worth checking though. Spent an age checking various bits and bobs a while ago only to find the kill switch off. Sadly snot quite that simple this time.
 
When you returned from your 30 mile ride you just parked up and walked away?

Nothing you could've done to unseat the dreaded throttle cable?
 
Yup. Pretty much. Bike's been out in the elements all week (too windy for the cover) but that's it. Throttle cables all seated properly-and this is a different set of symptoms from a misaligned cable. Dang it.
 
Well, just tried turning the ignition on, waiting for the pump to prime, then putting it in gear and turning the rear wheel. Nothing. No fuel pump noise at all.

Screwed Hall sensors?
 
Multi pin connector that you have to disconnect to remove tank under right hand side all okay?
I'm not sure what it supplies but do know if it's disconnected or badly corroded it allows bike to turn over but not to start.
Best of luck keep your chin up, someone will have the answer! :thumb


Sorry, just remembered that the connector has summat to do with the fuel pump so may not be the answer as you state you're getting fuel at injectors, might still be worth a look?
 
Last edited:
Check that you have a spark.

Pull off plug cap and fit a spare spark plug into the cap. Hold the cap and plug against the engine with the threaded part of the plug touching the barrel. Crank over and check that there is a spark at the plug.

If you don't have a spare plug, stick your finger in the cap.:D:D
 
Smug said:
Check that you have a spark.

Pull off plug cap and fit a spare spark plug into the cap. Hold the cap and plug against the engine with the threaded part of the plug touching the barrel. Crank over and check that there is a spark at the plug.

If you don't have a spare plug, stick your finger in the cap.:D:D
Click to expand...

Bloody hell, that hurt :D

Given that a go, but no spark. Dead bike. Annoyed MMC. :(
 
Switch ignition on and check that there is 12volts at the coil.
 
Crank it over and check for a pulse/signal at the injector plug.



If not, and with everything else you've said i'm tempted to suggest the hall sensor has failed.
 
Steptoe said:
Crank it over and check for a pulse/signal at the injector plug.



If not, and with everything else you've said i'm tempted to suggest the hall sensor has failed.
Click to expand...

Deader than a politican's heart. Time to search "hall sensor replacement" then.

Cheers Neil. :beerjug:
 
Nippy Normans supply Touratech, Wunderlich, Desert Fox and many other makes of accessories.
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