1100 tb balancing

[twig]

hi all. servicing my 1100gs. unsure about method of balancing throttle bodies. i have vacuum gauges. have tried doing a search, but can't find a how to thread on the procedure, if there is one. any help would be appreciated.
thanks.

 

[big albig]

Hi Twig,have a look at Steptoes post,s on the forum. in the search section.
Cheers
Al

 

[B4ndit]

Hi,

I looked into this as many people have talked about it. I am a novice mechanic and haven't bought the kit yet but can't find an easy guide to guide me!

HELP

 

[fatnfast]

Hope fully this link will work for you. Once open, scroll down to 'R11XX Tune Up Manual'. Its got the TB Balance info in there with lots of other stuff.

http://www.ibmwr.org/r-tech/oilheads/index.shtml

 

[Steptoe]

hi all. servicing my 1100gs. unsure about method of balancing throttle bodies. i have vacuum gauges. have tried doing a search, but can't find a how to thread on the procedure, if there is one. any help would be appreciated.
thanks.

The 1100 models have two types of throttle bodies - the early models have one single cable with three adjustments for the two bodies, the later models have a two cable with one adjustment for each throttle body.

The early models are buggers to balance and not for a 1st timer or learning on, you really need to know what you're doing otherwise you'll get in a state.
The later models are simple.

 

[twig]

Hope fully this link will work for you. Once open, scroll down to 'R11XX Tune Up Manual'. Its got the TB Balance info in there with lots of other stuff.

http://www.ibmwr.org/r-tech/oilheads/index.shtml

yep, link works fine, many thanks for that

 

[twig]

The 1100 models have two types of throttle bodies - the early models have one single cable with three adjustments for the two bodies, the later models have a two cable with one adjustment for each throttle body.

The early models are buggers to balance and not for a 1st timer or learning on, you really need to know what you're doing otherwise you'll get in a state.
The later models are simple.

thanks for the reply, mines a 1998 'r' plate so maybe you would know which type it is.
thanks

 

[MattW]

The early models are buggers to balance and not for a 1st timer or learning on, you really need to know what you're doing otherwise you'll get in a state.
The later models are simple.

I'll vouch for that!
Mine is an early one and was a right sod. I'm ok with it now but the first time it was a steep learning curve.

thanks for the reply, mines a 1998 'r' plate so maybe you would know which type it is.
thanks

I think the 98 has the later two piece cable (I'm sure someone who knows will chip in )

In the meantime, look at where the throttle cable meets your left hand throttle body (make sure you're not looking at the 'choke' cable).

If the throttle cable just stops at the throttle body then it's the later two piece cable. If there are two adjusters and it continues across the bike to the right hand throttle body, then it's the early one piece cable.

 

[uncle dick]

If you've got the early type, just convert it to twin cable. An hour well spent The one piece cable was an epic fail by the designers.

Dick

 

[bowser]

If you've got the early type, just convert it to twin cable. An hour well spent The one piece cable was an epic fail by the designers.

Dick

since my wife has a single cable version I am looking at doing at doing the conversion, whats involved?

 

[MattW]

whats involved?

A surprising amount of money once you tot up all the OEM bits you need.

Just go here and do some adding up (don't forget the choke cable):
http://www.motorworks.co.uk/vlive/Shop/Parts.php?T=5&NU=15&M=30&Ct=PA&SbCt=BA_15_30_PA_30

Apparently the twin cables will fit the single cable quadrants on the TB's but one of the adjusters (the right I think) ends up right at the end of its adjustment range. You also have to do some grinding / filing under the battery box as the distributor won't slide into place under there.

If you're prepared to do without the fast idle / choke, you could make up a set of cables with bits from Venhill for peanuts (on the twin cable setup the choke acts on both lower cables via the 'distributor' - you can't get a generic distributor like this and the OEM one requires special cable ferrules). I thought about doing this after the headbanging frustration of syncing my TB's last time...

I've designed a simple little distributor box that'll accept standard cable ferrules and allow the choke to work - I just need to find someone with a milling machine

 

[uncle dick]

I think the bits cost about 90 quid but if your original cable is tired then that's nearly 40 anyway. The splitter box will fit under the battery box but there's no clip to hold it in place on the early bikes - I stuffed some neoprene foam underneath just to stop it from rattling around.

Matt was right about the right hand cable being a tad long. I cut the end of a ferrule of the old one and it sits inside the adjuster barrel on the right throttle body. It gains about 2mm which is fine. To fit the later fast idle cable, you need to modify the lever housing slightly to fit the adjuster.

I'm away for a couple of weeks now but I could e-mail some pics of the required mods when I return if that's any help.

I will repeat what I've said before - time (and money) well spent.

 

[twig]

I'll vouch for that!
Mine is an early one and was a right sod. I'm ok with it now but the first time it was a steep learning curve.



I think the 98 has the later two piece cable (I'm sure someone who knows will chip in )

In the meantime, look at where the throttle cable meets your left hand throttle body (make sure you're not looking at the 'choke' cable).

If the throttle cable just stops at the throttle body then it's the later two piece cable. If there are two adjusters and it continues across the bike to the right hand throttle body, then it's the early one piece cable.

cheers for that. had a look and i definetly have the later 2 piece cable.
just taken the rubber blanking plugs off from underneath and they have disintegrated in my hand, so will be on to motorworks tomorrow for some new ones. in the meantime i assume that to check the syncro it's just a case of connecting the vacuum gauges and seeing if they need adjusting. if both sides read the same then leave well alone.
thanks for all replies