1100GS engine won't rotate after cylinder head install

Carefully! But it isn't rocket science just go back to basics all the timing bit is done in the head

Remove a head DO ONE SIDE AT A TIME Slacken the valve adjustment right off on the other side so you can turn the engine over after

You do not need to cable tie the sprocket into the chain "BUT" do put a bit of string on the chain so you don't have to go poking to get it out of the bowels of the engine!

when the piston is at TDC on the engine and you have rotated the cam in the head whilst the head is off, so that the "notch" is at 6 o'clock on the Right side head (12 o'clock on the left side head)

Refit the head and carefully jiggle the sprocket inside the chain until you get it to fit on Remember that the top side on the right must have no slack and the lower side on the left

This is the tension part of the timing with the slack being taken up after the sprocket If you have slack you can be a tooth or more out!

I am servicing an 1150 at the minute So I will check where the flywheel marks are when the arrows on the sprocket point East West

I mark each one up when I am doing it so never bother to remember

REMEMBER do not refit the other side until you have rotated the crank 360 degrees!!! Or you will get a "Big Bang" Yamaha M1 type engine
 
Finally had some time this morning and this is what I found-

YRb6uQ5.jpg


I thought, well maybe it doesn't matter. But 2 things-

1- I tried fitting the cam sprocket by hand and moving it. It slips and the notch doesn't stay in the tab.

2- How do you move the tab by hand? I couldn't get it to budge, with or without the cam sprocket.
 
Yup You didn't line it up correctly

To fix it properly you need a replacement cam!

It "may do" okay if you set it up correctly and torque the bolt but the carnage from the "possibility" of sprocket slipping off or moving out of the notch or running out of alignment and damaging a chain are not good

Its your call now "but" In the mean time you could set it up with the cam sprocket in the proper place and fit the cam bolt and turn the cam bolt with an allen key / socket turning in the direction of rotation i.e. CLOCKWISE viewed from Behind!

Rotate the bolt to turn the camshaft and you can check if anything is bent or if the sprocket runs in one "plane"? If it runs in one plane you might just get away with it but if it wobbles as you rotate it then I'd be changing it

1150 cams will fit and I think The Heff on here was well happy with this mod to his 1100

I thought, well maybe it doesn't matter. But 2 things-

1- I tried fitting the cam sprocket by hand and moving it. It slips and the notch doesn't stay in the tab.

2- How do you move the tab by hand? I couldn't get it to budge, with or without the cam sprocket.

You can't turn it by hand because the valve springs are very strong Or something is badly bent hence Using allen key

Yup We see it

Quick bump...anyone? See above pic
 
Ok so for about $100 USD he took the head apart, fixed the end of the camshaft and put it back together. He also told me that 2 of my valves were bent slightly, so he fixed them. I pick it up tomorrow and on Saturday my old mechanic who had moved away said he'd come by my house and help me reassemble it all, so hopefully it will be good to go just in time for Easter vacations. And then I'm selling it and buying an 1150 or 1200.

Thanks everyone for the help. I'll post up some pics when I get it back of the repair and once it's all back together.
 
Before you refit the head balance it so it is pretty level with the valves up and an old sparkplug fitted

Make a mug of water and a little detergent stir it well and pour it in carefully until just below the edge

Any water in the ports? Leave it an hour and check again

If there is? Better fix it properly than build it all up again and it run like a bag of schite
 
We used to use paraffin for leak testing valves - is water the new Eco alternative? :D
 
Fixed bent valves :D

That's going to cost you a bit further down the road................................
 


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