1100gs Play in the rear wheel - drive end bearings?

[thunk]

Hi,
I have a little play in the 1100gs rear wheel.. thought maybe it’s the bearing at the rear wheel but in closer inspection it seems to be a little play the where the rear trans connects to the swing arm - there are two pivot pins that I think must be set torqued correctly one is a Allen key bolt held in place by a locknut, the other side is done with (I think) 271 locktight . I know I have a funny cut out tool I made with a grinder to hold that nut, so I’m guessing I did something there many moons ago..might need to re torque those - anyone done this and have any pointers… I didn’t look at it in 10years…so I’m a bit rusty on what to do.

 

[DrFarkoff]

I would think you will need to check for small grooves where the bearings sit and maybe need to grease it all up again ?

Wheel and Caliper off and support the FD, I use a decent Bungy cord to the brake calliper mount

At this stage I normally undo the lower torque arm and pivot the final drive to see if it is notchy (Like steering head bearings when they are badly marked)

If they aren;t Reconnect the lower arm and torque it (approximately where you undid it!)

then just Heat the Locknut and inner pin and get them loose back the locknut off a little and screw the inner pin in a quarter turn Refit the caliper and wheel back on and torque them up properly and test to see if you fixed the problem if still a little wiggle gently tighten a quarter turn and test again. You want it to move freely up and down but no side to side

IF when you test they feel notchy then it is a good time to strip and rebuild or replace them

Whilst Chris Harris talks too much! It may do to refresh your mind

 

[thunk]

Thank you so Much, will do this at the weekend.

 

[Steptoe]

You don’t need to take the rear wheel off. Use a 4inch extension through the spoked, adjust the pivot pin to take up any play., if the play returns after a short period of time the paralever bearing needs replacing, it also means the bearing was fecked before you adjusted it so no need to get all precious regarding dismantling and checking everything before adjusting, if you get what I mean

 

[thunk]

Yeah, I took the wheel off in the end and the drive out, there was oil from the final drive - so I guess I need a new seal, empty and refill and hope the drive hasn’t disintegrated internally. Now to look at the bearings

 

[thunk]

Final drive pinion seal I think is what leaked

 

[DrFarkoff]

Final drive pinion seal I think is what leaked

What volume ?

They Do "Burp" every now and then! Don;t ask me how or when or anything like that!

All I know is that I have been asked dozens of times "there is a drip of oil from my drive boot at the Final Drive!"

I usually say "yup, Clean it, refit it and check it again in a hundred miles!"

Also It can come from the gearbox out put seal as the oil just works its way to the lowest point

 

[theoneandonly]

yes , but why ? old age ?

 

[hops]

There is often a bit of adjustment in the bearing that can be nipped up. Slacken the locknut and give the item numbered 7 a nip up.

 

[DrFarkoff]

yes , but why ? old age ?

I used to hear it from people who had parked up their bikes for a while or a bike had lain and then was sold and started being used again
My "thoughts" were that a seal became used to being certain shape and took a short while to be massaged into being flexible again

 

[Steptoe]

yes , but why ? old age ?

When I used to do the “Moroccan Dashes”, driving through France on day one and Spain on day two, Taft around 1700 miles in 2 days, quiet a few of the bikes on the ride had final drive input seals ‘breath’ oil .. once back to ‘normal’ riding the oil seepage stopped .

 

[Brit Basque]

There is often a bit of adjustment in the bearing that can be nipped up. Slacken the locknut and give the item numbered 7 a nip up.

Just saw this thread. I have a small amount (1mm max) of play 6 to 12 on 1150 GSA rear wheel (2004 and only 30,000 miles). I think that means paralever bearings play or worn. Do you have a torque for that no. 7 bolt? Or just take up any play if the bearings aren't worn. Does no. 6 need a nip up too?
Local stealer said I needed a new RD.....but no movement 3 to 9 direction. Only 6 to 12.