1100gs stiff clutch

[topcat2006]

The 1100gs I bought had a new clutch put into it a few thousand miles ago by the previous owner. It was then laid up for 2 years in his garage.

The clutch was really stiff when I got it. I replaced the cable (looked like a new cable that was on it so kept that as spare) I replaced the lever as the cable nipple had worn the lever into a funny shape. Ive pulled the lever off the gearbox (fun job putting it back on without taking off the swingarm) cleaned and greased the bearings and also removed the clutch piston and cleaned and greased that.

Ive put it all back together and adjusted it as recommended in the manual with all of the correct free play.

The clutch is still stiff and im using so much force to pull it after a longish ride my hand is hurting......

Has anyone come across this before and does anyone have any thoughts as to what thw problem may be.

I dont want to strip the bike to look at the clutch and find out its not that. ...

Thanks

Tom

 

[Steptoe]

When you replaced the clutch lever did you also replace the clutch cable nipple holder that slots into the lever ?

The holder should be round but can wear oval, and instead of swivelling when the lever is pulled it bends the cable and makes the clutch feel heavy.

 

[topcat2006]

Hi Neil

Yes I replaced all of the parts. On the old lever the insert had worn so badly it was wearing into the lever itself.

Thanks

Tom

 

[topcat2006]

Stripped it all apart again. The lever at the gearbox is tight on the pivot and the spring in the rubber gaiter has no effect on it. So - I may have overtightened it. However to get the lever loose the bolt is just over finger tight which concerns me.

I cant get a torque wrench in as there is no room (doing it with swingarm in).

I also have two washers, one flat, one cone. The flat washer is between the arm and g/box and the cone is between the bolt head and the lever. Is this correct?

Thanks

Tom

 

[davegs]

Clutch

A friend had this trouble, went through two new cables in six months. Turned out to ,be seized pivot as you suspected I had the same on my K free this up and grease and it will be fine, good idea to raise the rear frame makes life a lot easier.

 

[DrFarkoff]

Hopefully I have this right but I think that your problem is a seized bush/bearing

Part 9 is an inner bush that remains fixed whilst the lever 6 (with the needle roller bearing) pivots about it

They seize frequently and if not sorted you can have the dreaded Clutch lever break while out on a run or even worse in traffic

http://www.realoem.com/bmw/showparts.do?model=0404&mospid=51667&btnr=21_0082&hg=21&fg=51

 

[topcat2006]

Bearing already done so it is not this.

Thanks

Tom

 

[shready]

That bike used to use up clutch cables on a regular basis as I recall. It had new actuating arm fitted too.

Funnily enough I cannot remember ever riding it so cannot comment on how stiff the clutch was.

 

[DrFarkoff]

Okay well in that case something is not correct in that area

If you have a decent easy pull before you tighten that bolt

The maybe it's the wrong bush? A wee bit too short?

Cable routing seems to be pretty critical with these too

Then it must be to do with this

Bearing already done so it is not this.

Thanks

Tom

 

[topcat2006]

I reckon it needs a new belville washer. Do the bolt up so it wont undo with the lever moving - the whole things goes tight to the point that the return spring in the rubber boot does not return the lever. Do the bolt up so its tight and everything is smooth and loose with the return spring working - and the bolt starts turning with the lever.

The belville washer does not look to have much of a cone in it so I wonder if it has been overtightened at some point.