1100GS - Strange Electrical Problem

[Rabbitson]

Hi there,

I've just replaced the clutch on my '95 1100GS and everything was going swimmingly, now however, the bike seems to have developed a bizarre intermittent electrical problem. One minute, the bike works perfectly and the next minute the complete electrics just go out (the only exception being the clock on the dash, all the other RID functions also go out)

Presumably this is some kind of loose connection somewhere, if the clock went out, I would suspect a battery connection but any ideas why only the clock would stay on (No lights, no dashboard lights, no starter, etc)

Thanks for any tips

David

 

[Welshman]

Hi there,

I've just replaced the clutch on my '95 1100GS and everything was going swimmingly, now however, the bike seems to have developed a bizarre intermittent electrical problem. One minute, the bike works perfectly and the next minute the complete electrics just go out (the only exception being the clock on the dash, all the other RID functions also go out)

Presumably this is some kind of loose connection somewhere, if the clock went out, I would suspect a battery connection but any ideas why only the clock would stay on (No lights, no dashboard lights, no starter, etc)

Thanks for any tips

David

I think that is quite a clue, the one item permanently getting power, loom to ignition switch connections?

 

[Vern]

Does it kill the engine as well?

Load relief relay maybe?

Wiring from the ignition switch?

Keep us posted

 

[hops]

the loom

is known to fail on these bikes. Normally due to insufficient flex in the cable running from the base of the ignition as it is cable-tied to the frame. Have a look here for a bit more assistance.

 

[Gecko]

won't be the loom - he replaced it not long ago .
Rabbit - when you are done you can come by my place and help me get my auxilliary lights working - my bike is in bits while I try and fugure where the problem lies. Wish I'd known you were doing the clutch I would have liked to have assisted to see what is involved when I need to do mine one day.

 

[Rabbitson]

Thanks for the tips guys,

It looks like there is indeed a loose connection around the ignition switch probably caused by my dodgy cable routing when I replaced the loom a while back.

So I think I need to order a new ignition connector wire like this (shown as part 6 on the diagram):

I think there are some security type screws around the barrel as well but not sure exactly the additional parts that might be required to complete the job.
Any pointers as to which additional parts I should order?

Gecko, let me know if you need any help with the lights and/or clutch in future, I'm sure I could help.

David

 

[John Armstrong]

The ignition lead is about £45.

 

[(RIP) ugg]

Ye replaced the clutch. and ignition went faulty?

What did ye do to the ignition when the back end was jacked up?
was a tie down wrapped around the area, or was the clutch done while the ignition was being changed?

ie was the bike off road while all the jobs were being done?

dont understand why the ignition went wrong when ye was doin the clutch , other end of bike??


ugg

 

[sockpuppet]

On the 1100GS all the negative leads come down to the gearbox to be earthed.

Gearbox is near the clutch. I'd look at that.

 

[Rabbitson]

What did ye do to the ignition when the back end was jacked up?

As previously mentioned I don't think the clutch replacement necessarily caused the issue, I think it may just be a coincidence.

Now that I can see where the problem is, I think the culprit is more likely to be the Touratech Tank bag which straps around the headstock that I sometimes use for trips. This coupled with the fact that I replaced the complete loom a while back and probably didn't route all the cables in a BMW approved fashion

Presumably I need one or more of those security screws to correctly attach the new ignition cable? if so, does it require a special tool to fit?

Thanks for the tips in any case.

David

 

[John Armstrong]

Presumably I need one or more of those security screws to correctly attach the new ignition cable? if so, does it require a special tool to fit?

IIRC Steptoe posted a piccy a while back and then removed it so it wouldn't fall into the "wrong" hands. A PM to him might be worthwhile.

 

[Rabbitson]

Ta John

 

[Steptoe]

It looks like there is indeed a loose connection around the ignition switch probably caused by my dodgy cable routing when I replaced the loom a while back.

Presumably I need one or more of those security screws to correctly attach the new ignition cable? if so, does it require a special tool to fit?

Thanks for the tips in any case.

David

I'm confused !!!!! if you replaced the igintion loom previously why are you now asking which parts you need ???

 

[sockpuppet]

I'm confused !!!!! if you replaced the igintion loom previously why are you now asking which parts you need ???

I think he's referring to the main loom. Rather than the ignition loom.

 

[Rabbitson]

Yes, I am referring to the main loom, the ignition part has never been replaced, hence I don't know how to do it

Thanks for any help

 

[Pat]

Ignition switch

Its fairly easy to change this, I had to do it recently after my bike was taken from outside my front door....
Although mine is an 1150 I'd imagine its pretty much the same.
If you look at the right hand side of the ignition barrel you should see a red dot, underneath this is a small screw that holds the plastic switch assy in place.
just loosen this screw, (no need to take it out completely) and the switch/loom assy should just fall out.
No need to go at those security screws as they need to be drilled out.
Hope this helps.

 

[Rabbitson]

Thanks Pat,

That sounded like an excellent solution until I tried unscrewing the screw with the red dot on it, but omg it's done up really tight or fixed in with something (broke 2 screwdrivers trying to get it out), so I don't think that's going to happen.

Looks like drilling the security bolt/s is the next option then.

Thanks for the help in any case.

David

 

[Rabbitson]

If anyone's interested in how I resolved this:

Didn't really want to take out the security screws so I simply popped the plastic cover off the back of the ignition, then cut and unsoldered the connections carefully. After that I made a note of which colours fixed to which terminals of the igniton barrel, stripped the wires back to a non-oxidised part, then carefully soldered all the connctions back on through the wholes. It was a bit tricky but the whole thing only took me about an hour. waterproofed the new connections with loads of black insulating tape and problem solved. The cost of the soldering iron, the solder and the tape was less than a new cable from BMW!

Here are the correct connection colours if anyone has a similar problem:

David

 

[Rabbitson]

That dreaded ignition barrel problem again.....

How annoying, having previously fixed the ignition the barrel/wire not flexing problem has happened again.

The bike was cutting out intermittently, as I was only about 20 miles from home, I elected to try and keep restarting the bike to get back. This was going ok until I noticed some smoke coming from under the tank.

As you can imagine I was rather worried by this point so just elected to trailer the bike back home (feeling quite depressed!) I left the bike in the garage overnight then came back in the morning and checked the connections and everything (superficially) appeared to be ok and the bike started first time again.

So I have two questions for the panel The first is, is there a good way to resolve this ignition barrel problem for the long term (ideas/aftermarket parts, etc)?

And my second question would be, would there be any likely suspect places that might have melted that I should look into in a bit more detail (I'll look over the complete loom externally when I get a minute but would be interested to know if there are any experiences of such symptoms from others)

Many Thanks for any advice.

David

 

[davegs]

Smoke

Whip the the
tank off and have a look under.