1100GS - Why would it be cutting out?

essjay

essjay

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The 1100GS seems to be cutting out lately then I'm stopped waiting at lights etc. Obvious answer to me is that th idle is too low but it's around the 1000RPM. More often times than not the engine will die as I'm about to take off and have just given a little throttle.

Also notice somethimes when I'm slowing down to stop that the engine will cut out straight away when I come to a stop. I usually use quite a bit of enging braking when slowing down.
 
Has your 1100 got a lambda probe or does it use a Co pot ?

If Co pot test the Co reading.

Also check the TPS reading and the HT lead resistance.
 
John Armstrong said:
Is there a lead going down to the exhaust collector box / link pipe, and attaches to it?
Click to expand...

Not that I can see. It's a Remus pipe and collector box anyway. I'm wondering could it be the new spark plugs I fitted - maybe didn't tighten them enough.

I've also noticed the bike slightly surging when on constant throttle. It's not much but I'm noticing it there. Lastly I'm convinced thet I didn't get much out of the last tenner petrol. 60 miles by my reckoning to light on but there was feck all in the tank before I put in that 10 quid.
 
A set of plug leads cured similar behaviour from mine before Christmas, the give away seemed to be that it was worse on damp days.
Stewart
 
possibly

essjay said:
Also had the tank off so could I have trapped a throttle cable?
Click to expand...

look here for what to check. When it cuts out do you still have power to the RID and lights etc?
 
Essjay it should tick over at 1100 to 1150 RPM when at working temp

If you fitted the remus system you have made it breathe easier

consequently it probably needs a fine tune

You could "TRY" giong 1/2 a turn counter clockwise on the big brass screws in the throttle bodies if that takes it beyond 1150rpm when hot back them in again an 1/8th of a turn until you get the level set

Also check what yer oil temp gauge is saying cos in this weather it'll not be gettin that hot ! So it'll be burning excees fuel if that is so?

Cover half of the oil cooler with a dod of cardboard or plastic cardbaord type stuff! and see if temp goes up and occurences of stalling drop??

N.B. it would be sensible to get the CO levels checked and set to 1.5 to 2.25% as per my foreman (of 30 years BMW experience) told me

Valve clearances and rocker end float would be sensible to get done too
 
essjay said:
Not that I can see. It's a Remus pipe and collector box anyway. I'm wondering could it be the new spark plugs I fitted - maybe didn't tighten them enough.

I've also noticed the bike slightly surging when on constant throttle. It's not much but I'm noticing it there. Lastly I'm convinced thet I didn't get much out of the last tenner petrol. 60 miles by my reckoning to light on but there was feck all in the tank before I put in that 10 quid.
Click to expand...

I've got the Remus end can + Remus collector box on my 1100, and if you look on the exhaust pipe, level with the front of the rear brake lever, but on the side of the pipe that I'd call the inside, but is more accurately the side nearest to the centre of the bike is where the probe will be, or in my case where the blanking plug is.

I also get very slight surging at about 3000 rpm, from what I've read some do it badly, some don't do it at all, and most are somewhere in between.
 
John Armstrong said:
I've got the Remus end can + Remus collector box on my 1100, and if you look on the exhaust pipe, level with the front of the rear brake lever, but on the side of the pipe that I'd call the inside, but is more accurately the side nearest to the centre of the bike is where the probe will be, or in my case where the blanking plug is.

I also get very slight surging at about 3000 rpm, from what I've read some do it badly, some don't do it at all, and most are somewhere in between.
Click to expand...

Seems to be a bloody great bolt in that location - I presume that's the blanking plate.
 
Jaythro said:
Essjay it should tick over at 1100 to 1150 RPM when at working temp

If you fitted the remus system you have made it breathe easier

consequently it probably needs a fine tune

You could "TRY" giong 1/2 a turn counter clockwise on the big brass screws in the throttle bodies if that takes it beyond 1150rpm when hot back them in again an 1/8th of a turn until you get the level set

Also check what yer oil temp gauge is saying cos in this weather it'll not be gettin that hot ! So it'll be burning excees fuel if that is so?

Cover half of the oil cooler with a dod of cardboard or plastic cardbaord type stuff! and see if temp goes up and occurences of stalling drop??

N.B. it would be sensible to get the CO levels checked and set to 1.5 to 2.25% as per my foreman (of 30 years BMW experience) told me

Valve clearances and rocker end float would be sensible to get done too
Click to expand...

have a feeling that it's ticking over just below the 1000RPM. I might try turning it up to see what happens.
 
hops said:
look here for what to check. When it cuts out do you still have power to the RID and lights etc?
Click to expand...

Looks seated ok on both sides. Yes, there's power on when the engine dies. Died again today halfway through a set of traffic lights.

Feels brutal at around 1500 to 2000 RPM in first or second gear. That could be my fault for not revving enough though.
 
essjay said:
Seems to be a bloody great bolt in that location - I presume that's the blanking plate.
Click to expand...

Yep T'would be right!

Look down at where the quadrant that the cable goes round on the inner side of the throttle bodies is

There is a stop there

Are both quadrants resting on the stops okay? If not the cable has unseated at t'other end!

OR it's getting to the stage that you just need a bloody good tune up done on it!
 
Yeah, both cable seem seated ok (as per attached photo). I pulled them out and seated them again just to be sure. Do I need to look further down?

The bike seemed fine when I got it back in early November and I might have done 300 miles since. The bike came with the Remus pipe and collector box along with one of those BBChips fitted.

All I have done to the bike since I got it are new air filter, back tyre, aux lights, head guards, gearbox protection.
 
So it hasn't died on the way home from work yesterday or to work today since I had a fiddle with the throttle cables. I'm not convinced the problem is fixed as it was close a couple of times.

The idle is definately a bit low I think. Around the 850-900 RPM so it could do with a bit of a tweak.

So some daft questions - do I turn the brass screws when the engine is on or off? Clockwise or anticlockwise? Will messing with the idle knock anything else out of synch?
 
Keep in very simple screw both in equally 5 degrees..doesn't matter if engine running or not...rev her a couple of times to settle things down.....then you know if minor further adjustment is needed:thumb2
 
So I'm still thinking that my fuel economy is a bit low.

Put €10 in on Tuesday which I reckon is around 8L (think the petrol is around €1.25). Bike was showing no fuel bars and fuel light on. I've done 40 miles and the bike is hovering between no bars for a long time (sometimes with no fuel light on) and one bar. It did have 2 bars going to work this morning though.

To me that's working out at around 25mpg. It was all city riding though with a 5 mile commute across the middle Dublin to and from work. I also had a stubby fitted for the first time during these last few days.

Sound a bit low or OK?

I'll put the original pipe on and up the idle a bit over the weekend.
 
Nippy Normans supply Touratech, Wunderlich, Desert Fox and many other makes of accessories.
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