1150 ADV Rough as arses after new battery

[monkeyboy]

Thanks guys - it definitely sounds like a cable problem, the symptoms are identical to a dislodged cable at the throttle end, so it's entirely possible (and hopefully likely) that it's popped out at t'other end.

The little rubber cap on the TB is also a good (and nice and easy) thing to check.

Good tip re the pipe "blowing off" (snigger) inside the tank - if all else fails I'll have a squizz at that too.


Worked late last night so didn't get a chance to have a poke around, but all that info gives me a good few things to investigate this evening.

Now...where exactly do I find/how do I get to that throttle cable junction box?! Can't say I've ever noticed it - anyone got a pic or a diagram handy?

It's hidden away and quite small but there if you know where to look. Someome will be along with a pic soon no doubt but here is a vid of the cables being changed and it will show where it is . You just need to remove the gearbox vent hose to the airbox, then push the tab up under the box then slide it out. Just remember to release both the throttle cables from the throttle bodies first!

If it has come out, you might just be able to twist and wiggle it back in without taking the box out - I did. You'll feel it go back in then it's a pressure fit anyway if the cable is connected to the throttle body. I rode mine all the way to Bangkok last year like that so don't worry about it

 

[Steptoe]

Thanks guys - it definitely sounds like a cable problem, the symptoms are identical to a dislodged cable at the throttle end, so it's entirely possible (and hopefully likely) that it's popped out at t'other end.

The little rubber cap on the TB is also a good (and nice and easy) thing to check.

Now...where exactly do I find/how do I get to that throttle cable junction box?! Can't say I've ever noticed it - anyone got a pic or a diagram handy?

No need to find the junction box

And it's very easy to pop the cables back into place at the cassette/junction box.

Hold one of the throttle pulleys and twist the throttle open as hard as you can (obviously it won't turn), repeat on the other side - if they have been dislodged at the junction box you should feel the throttle cable snick back into place as you try the method i've posted .. You may need to try it more than once. And be very aggressive when doing it, snap it open and closed, not gentle.

Don't worry about the rubber caps not being in place as they aren't your problem.. if one or both of those are missing it'll just increase the idle slightly.

 

[Robster]

No need to find the junction box

And it's very easy to pop the cables back into place at the cassette/junction box.

Hold one of the throttle pulleys and twist the throttle open as hard as you can (obviously it won't turn), repeat on the other side - if they have been dislodged at the junction box you should feel the throttle cable snick back into place as you try the method i've posted .. You may need to try it more than once. And be very aggressive when doing it, snap it open and closed, not gentle.

Don't worry about the rubber caps not being in place as they aren't your problem.. if one or both of those are missing it'll just increase the idle slightly.

Genius... agressive throttle twisting sounds just about my level!

I'll give that a go first when I get in, nice one Steppers

 

[iftikartaxis]

rough

in your post you said before you changed the battery it was running smooth
when you put the new battery on did you do the operation where you turn ignition on and operate the throttles opening and closing a few times before you start up so the ECU can reset everything ive heard this may upset running forgive me if you have already done this

 

[Bmmike08]

One test you can try if not already done is to turn ignition on, open throttle fully and close, open throttle fully and close. Turn off ignition. This resets throttle/injection setting.

Now try and start engine.

Safe riding,
Mike

 

[Canuck]

One test you can try if not already done is to turn ignition on, open throttle fully and close, open throttle fully and close. Turn off ignition. This resets throttle/injection setting.

Now try and start engine.

Safe riding,
Mike

And don't forget to take out fuse 5 first...then after 10 secs or so out it back in before turning key to on position... But not actually starting the bike.

 

[Robster]

No need to find the junction box

And it's very easy to pop the cables back into place at the cassette/junction box.

Hold one of the throttle pulleys and twist the throttle open as hard as you can (obviously it won't turn), repeat on the other side - if they have been dislodged at the junction box you should feel the throttle cable snick back into place as you try the method i've posted .. You may need to try it more than once. And be very aggressive when doing it, snap it open and closed, not gentle.

Don't worry about the rubber caps not being in place as they aren't your problem.. if one or both of those are missing it'll just increase the idle slightly.

So, I tried this at some length last night and I didn't feel anything snap back in to place I'm adfrtaid to say – no improvement in the situation.

Was late so didn't go as far as pulling everything out and getting in to the junction box itself, but tried a few of the other suggestions here (including the throttle-twist motronic reset) with no success either

The fuel pump is priming, so I'd ruled out any issues with the electrical connector for the tank etc, but I guess that's worth checking for corrosion etc also.

Other than that, I'm back to square one again... properly stumped!

 

[Roger 04 RT]

One test you can try if not already done is to turn ignition on, open throttle fully and close, open throttle fully and close. Turn off ignition. This resets throttle/injection setting.

Now try and start engine.

Safe riding,
Mike

And don't forget to take out fuse 5 first...then after 10 secs or so out it back in before turning key to on position... But not actually starting the bike.

I ran a test to see how long Fuse 5 had to be removed before the Motronic is fully reset. You can read about it here: R1150 Motronic Reset Time: 5 Minutes Plus

Bottom line is that you need to leave the Fuse out for 5 minutes. I now leave it out for 10 minutes to be sure.

 

[Roger 04 RT]

So, I tried this at some length last night and I didn't feel anything snap back in to place I'm adfrtaid to say – no improvement in the situation.

Was late so didn't go as far as pulling everything out and getting in to the junction box itself, but tried a few of the other suggestions here (including the throttle-twist motronic reset) with no success either

The fuel pump is priming, so I'd ruled out any issues with the electrical connector for the tank etc, but I guess that's worth checking for corrosion etc also.

Other than that, I'm back to square one again... properly stumped!

Reread all your posts. Here are some things I'd look at.

--Have you confirmed that you have a strong spark on each primary plug?

--Do both throttle plates sit on the throttle stops at idle?
--When you turn the throttle, do both throttles move off the stops at the same time?
--When you pull the fast idle lever to the mid (detent position) do both throttles come off the stops together?

If the above are all okay, throttle linkage isn't your issue.

--Is your TPS cable properly seated?
--Are both fuel injector connectors intact and properly seated?

--Did you damage your oil temperature sensor or it's connection.

It is possible that an in-tank fuel line has split. You can test the entire system easily by doing the following.
--With key off, open the return QD.
--Then carefully point the return line (males QD) coming from the fuel distributor into a jar to collect fuel. PRESS IN THE CHECK VALVE FULLY BEFORE TURNING ON THE KEY. (Too much pressure in the system if you don't.)
--Turn on the key. If you get a good surge of fuel for the 1-2 seconds that the pump runs, then your in-tank hoses, fuel filter and fuel pressure regulator are likely okay.

To check things more, can you borrow a GS-911?

If all those tests pass, you could have an HES or compression issue.

 

[Robster]

Thanks Roger – I'll work my way through your and the other guys suggestions over the weekend and see what I can turn up.

The HES is only a couple of years old so shouldn't be an issue and, if I hadn't had it running (after the fluid changes and before I took the tank off) I'd be looking elsewhere than in or around the tank... but it was running nicely, so it's something I've dislodged or whatever in taking the tank on and off to swap out the battery and air filter surely?

We shall see... she shall ride again!

 

[DrFarkoff]

At all 4 ends??????

So The real way to check the cables are seated is to look at the back "of the throttle bodies" and make sure the cable quadrants are hitting the stops

Other than that, I'm back to square one again... properly stumped!

Looking at the rear of the throttle bodies twist the throttle

AS you close the throttle follow the cable quadrants at the lower side You will see a sticky out bit on the quadrant and the end of a threaded wotsit that is your throttle stop!

If those 2 do not meet then you have pulled a cable out up at the cable splitter box

 

[Robster]

Ok, out in the garage again but making no progress.

Checked the throttle bodies and throttle stops are "connecting" at the same time on either side and it looks like they are.

Interestingly, pulling the fast idle, I can only see movement on the right hand side TB (QD side) and only a millimetre or so - there's the tiniest movement on the cable on the left TB, but not enough to pull it off the stop.

Not sure what that signifies, or what to do about it, but I assume they should move together and by the same amount?

Bike will start without the fast idle (with a little throttle) but runs rough as per the original symptoms.

Can't see how i've managed to hoik out the TB cable at the other end just by removing the tank, but it does kinda look like all things are pointing to having to unearth the TB cassette/junction box to check that now? I really didn't want to have to go there!

 

[MikeO]

The fast idle cable routes down the left side of the front subframe near the tank mount - it's possible you fouled this when pushing the tank home.

I'm puzzled by the fast idle apparently moving only one side's throttle - it should be uniform, as the cable acts on the main wheel in the splitter box. It suggests to me that there is an unseated cable at the splitter box end...

 

[Robster]

The fast idle cable routes down the left side of the front subframe near the tank mount - it's possible you fouled this when pushing the tank forward.

I'm puzzled by the fast idle apparently moving only one side's throttle - it should be uniform, as the cable acts on the main wheel in the splitter box. It suggests to me that there is an unseated cable at the splitter box end...

Thanks Mike

Having a calming coffee so will head out and check that fast idle cable once I'm done.

I guess it's entirely possible I've snagged that one one of the half-dozen occasions I've had the tank on and off now! I suppose doing that might have pulled something adrift at the splitter box end.

There's no avoiding it is there, I'm going to have to get in there and check?! :-/

 

[Slipperyeel]

Well maybe hold off. Get new cables and just get in there proper. From everything I've read, replacing the cables is really worth while.

If/when you do get in there, at the very least get a load of silicone spray in between all the parts.

 

[MikeO]

Well maybe hold off. Get new cables and just get in there proper. From everything I've read, replacing the cables is really worth while.

If/when you do get in there, at the very least get a load of silicone spray in between all the parts.

No lubrication - cables are (teflon?) coated and the splitter box is designed to run dry...

 

[Slipperyeel]

No lubrication - cables are (teflon?) coated and the splitter box is designed to run dry...

Mike, you're right about the calcables, but i didn't mean them - I want clear. I meant the wheel (spindle and contact faces). Silicone spray lubricant should be just fine in there...

 

[Roger 04 RT]

Ok, out in the garage again but making no progress.

Checked the throttle bodies and throttle stops are "connecting" at the same time on either side and it looks like they are.

Interestingly, pulling the fast idle, I can only see movement on the right hand side TB (QD side) and only a millimetre or so - there's the tiniest movement on the cable on the left TB, but not enough to pull it off the stop.

Not sure what that signifies, or what to do about it, but I assume they should move together and by the same amount?

Bike will start without the fast idle (with a little throttle) but runs rough as per the original symptoms.

Can't see how i've managed to hoik out the TB cable at the other end just by removing the tank, but it does kinda look like all things are pointing to having to unearth the TB cassette/junction box to check that now? I really didn't want to have to go there!

Robster, It sounds like an adjustment issue. If the bike is running rough with the fast idle off but throttle advanced then you have a problem that is not related to fast idle cable.

Did you check that both injectors are firing?

 

[MikeO]

Mike, you're right about the calcables, but i didn't mean them - I want clear. I meant the wheel (spindle and contact faces). Silicone spray lubricant should be just fine in there...

The amount of dust that had accumulated in the splitter box all three times I have done this job would dissuade me from using any form of lubricant, to avoid forming gunk in there. The bearing surface is stainless on plastic, so I can't see the need...

 

[Slipperyeel]

The amount of dust that had accumulated in the splitter box all three times I have done this job would dissuade me from using any form of lubricant, to avoid forming gunk in there. The bearing surface is stainless on plastic, so I can't see the need...

I know what you mean, but the silicone is dry (once the medium had evaporated)... so even dust would get coated

But each to his own. Personally I would spray some in there. I think it would do no harm and certainly not accelerate the inevitable. On which note I'll be wanting to do mine in the spring. I'd only done it to the previous GS about 3 months before it disappeared!