1150 - Bash Plate HELP!!

  • Thread starter Thread starter ollieyoung88
  • Start date Start date
Could be.

Mine just drop off and what JB says could very well be right, but not if you look at the parts fiche....we are wrong. Have you tried to undo them with a warm engine?
 
Yeah, tried running the engine but still no luck. I think the previous owner must of had a stinker and put the plates on wrong.

Operation -"put a hole in the inner plate to get to the filter" is now in progress!
 
I think Jonnyboxer has hit the nail on the head. Which would also explain why Steptoe is telling me the 2nd plate should drop off with the first.

How do I get the 2nd plate off? I cannot turn the rubber threaded bolts without snapping the rubber...hmmmm???

Try a hot air gun and lightly warm the bolts that go into the sump.................see if you improvise something to deflect the heat away from the rubber bung

It's the only way i can see why you have a problem
 
Yeah, tried running the engine but still no luck. I think the previous owner must of had a stinker and put the plates on wrong.

Operation -"put a hole in the inner plate to get to the filter" is now in progress!

Seems a bit overkill and it'll always be wrongly fitted
 
Seems odd how yours is different, The diagram matches exactly what I have got, with parts 3 & 7 being the problem

I have never ever seen one fitted as per that diagram. Ever.

That diagram shows an 1100 main sump guard so i'd take it with a pinch of salt.
 
but as long as i have access to the filter and sump nut it doesn't really matter that its incorrectly fitted does it?
Heating the bolts below the rubber bung does not help, and I can't get to the bolt above the rubber as the plate is there...?
This is really frustrating
 
Seems odd how yours is different, The diagram matches exactly what I have got, with parts 3 & 7 being the problem

I have never ever seen one fitted as per that diagram. Ever.

That diagram shows an 1100 main sump guard so i'd take it with a pinch of salt.

Think he is talking about the one in post 15....
 
but as long as i have access to the filter and sump nut it doesn't really matter that its incorrectly fitted does it?
Heating the bolts below the rubber bung does not help, and I can't get to the bolt above the rubber as the plate is there...?
This is really frustrating

Can you not get to the stud if you cut the rubber off?? you maybe able to get the studs out then..
 
Last oil change on my 1100 one of my bolts separated (although they were correctly fitted as Steptoe says - plates sandwiched together). I managed to get some good quality molegrips on the steel mushroom (that's usually bonded to the rubber) and it came out ok.
 
but as long as i have access to the filter and sump nut it doesn't really matter that its incorrectly fitted does it?
Heating the bolts below the rubber bung does not help, and I can't get to the bolt above the rubber as the plate is there...?
This is really frustrating


Not a great idea to have the inner plate mated directly to the sump...............vibes will increase and if the sump takes a hit, then it'll not doing it any good

It was not obviously designed to fit as it has been on your bike
 
Bash Plate help

Rather than risk breaking the three remaining mountings and getting into the world of snapped studs, drilling, easy outs etc, I have now cut two holes in the sump guard to allow removal of the filter and oil drain. It will have to come off one day, oh what a joy that will be!
img0083hn.jpg
 
Your picture confirms that the secondary plate is fitted incorrectly.

Your mods have solved the immediate problem but sump protection and probably cooling are now compromised, doubly on the protection side as the inner plate is now weaker and is much closer to the sump.

I would order up new set of rubber bobbins and once you have them set about cutting the rubber off the old ones and removing the remaining plates/studs. They will probably move quite easily once you can get a good grip on the steel plate. Some bobbins have a hexagonal plate that you can get a socket onto but take care as the stud diameter is small.

You will be able to get a secondhand plate from Motorworks/Motobins/Sherlocks etc. that advertise on this site.

Finally it will be much easier to do the job with the bike laying on its side but if you do this take out a spark plug from the head you rest it on before spinning over the engine just in case oil has leaked into the cylinder head.
 
BASH PLATE OFF

Hi, it sounds very odd. I've just done an oil and filter change on my 03 1150gs last week. It was a bit of a pain with the engine bars etc. When I got down to removing the sump plate, the nuts were a bit tight and when removed, both plates dropped down together. Once all the nuts are off there is nothing left to hold the plates on. Unless, a previous owner has put the plates on incorrectly but I just can't see how unless he inserted further nuts between the plates! Very strange. Best of luck, lets know how you do.

Scorpioted.
 
Hi, it sounds very odd........When I got down to removing the sump plate, the nuts were a bit tight and when removed, both plates dropped down together.

That's not odd - that's how it's supposed to be.

Once all the nuts are off there is nothing left to hold the plates on.

Er.......yes. The nuts are there to hold the plates on. If you remove the nuts the plates come off. If there was something else to hold the plates on you wouldn't need the nuts.
 
but I just can't see how unless he inserted further nuts between the plates!

He didn't need extra nuts - he (incorrectly) used the rubber mounts (which have a short stud at each side of a rubber bobbin) to fasten the inner plate against the sump and then used the nuts to fasten the sump guard to the rubber mounts.
 
Think he is talking about the one in post 15....


Fed up repeating myself on this thread, but here goes again - that's a diagram of an 1100. .

Perhaps they use a generic diagram, but whatever, the diagram is incorrect.
 


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