1150 GS 2000 MODEL

daffyduck1962

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My last post was about deciding whether to buy a 1200LC with 49k on the clock. having read everyone's advice I respectfully bowed out and have gone for an 1150 with a Sargent seat already fitted. I can touch the floor but it isn't ideal so want to lower he sea height by 25-30mm which will then be perfect.
I was told you can buy a different linkage rod for the rear shock and then drop the fork tubes through the triple clamp to alter the front.
Can't find any linkage rod kits on ebay. where can I find some, are they difficult to fit.
Can you buy shorter centre and side stands to allow for the reduced height?
 

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kevin3bikes said:
I was told you can buy a different linkage rod for the rear shock and then drop the fork tubes through the triple clamp to alter the front.
Click to expand...

Who told you you can drop the fork tubes through the top yolk/clamp and lower the height :D.......... these bikes have a paralever front suspension

You can remove the fork stanchions completely and it won't alter/lower the height. the forks are simply there to attach the front wheel to the bike and to point the front wheel in the right direction :D ... It's the front shock that affects the height, and that's attached to the front paralever arm and frame.
 
We replaced the rear torque arm for a longer one to lower my wife's GS ,from an 1100s , 1150RT or 1150 RT. Check Motor Works or eBay for a used one
 
Steptoe said:
Who told you you can drop the fork tubes through the top yolk/clamp and lower the height :D.......... these bikes have a paralever front suspension

You can remove the fork stanchions completely and it won't alter/lower the height. the forks are simply there to attach the front wheel to the bike and to point the front wheel in the right direction :D ... It's the front shock that affects the height, and that's attached to the front paralever arm and frame.
Click to expand...
A guy who claims to have worked for BMW

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How does changing the torque arm lower the rear suspension? How can I lower the front to match? Would a shorter spring on both shocks have the same effect?

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In 2000, only the GS was available so you have the shorter suspension fitted to your bike (the GSA came out later and has taller suspension as std).

You can lower the rear slightly by using a longer paralever arm, which is the one below the swingarm. Making this longer pushes the bottom joint further back and rotates the final drive slightly around the final pivot, so the rear sits lower. There used to be adjustable paralever arms available but I’ve not seen one for some years. Check out RealOEM.com across the different models and you might find one that had a longer arm as std, like KTM-AL said. I would still check before laying out money as you might just find you buy what you’ve already got…

For the front, you could swap for alloy wheels and this would give you a 17” front, dropping the height by an inch.

Have you tried a standard seat? ISTR the Sergeant seats were profiled a bit wider so it affects the reach to the ground.
 
17" wheel? Do you have to resite the brakes as the front wheel is 19"

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Only suggested the torque arm swap from the GS 365mm to the longer 385mm one as I have just got a used one for £15 which will drop the rear by about 1 1/2" so worth a try.
 
Are we talking JUST the wheel? If so no difference in spacers etc?
Does changing the 'torque' (what's that?) arm lower bike by much?

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29" inside leg. With bike boots on balls of my feet if road is cambered much

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If anyone is interested, I have a spare 385mm torque arm (from an 1100S) I would be willing to swap for a 1150GS (365mm) torque arm.
 
Paul Young said:
Better, how..? It only drops half an inch and has significantly less choice of tyres/availability.
Click to expand...

Faster steering than a 19" rim but not as skittish as a 17" one . I've ridden 1150's with all of the above back when 19" tyres were very limited in choice and 18" tyres were more readily available in sportier road compounds
 
Wonder if that Yank style cruiser seat is causing some problems? They do tend to be on the wide side. I can't touch the ground flat feet with my seat in the higher position, but why would I need to? When I'm stopped I'm either covering the back brake or getting ready to put it in first so just lean the bike over slightly. They're well balance bikes so this is easy to do.

Another alternative if you really do want to have both feet flat is shorter shocks? I'm pretty sure Wilbers do 'em and if your bike has the o/e ones they'll be shagged out by now anyway. Not ideal perhaps, but maybe easier than changing wheels although of course you may have issues with the stands.

Maybe the best solution would be to do BMW's off road course. Fall off their bikes getting used to the height of a GS?
 
Cheers Neil, I appreciate your experience even if it’s very different from mine. I’ve never felt the 17” to be in the slightest bit skittish and I wear the fronts out on the shoulders faster than rears, but that could be down to personal preference/impressions, tyre choices, pressures, etc. I did consider the 18” many years ago when I first swapped, but they were rare, expensive (even s/h from Germany) and had limited choice of tyres. That’s why I was interested in your experience. :thumb2

Neil W said:
Faster steering than a 19" rim but not as skittish as a 17" one . I've ridden 1150's with all of the above back when 19" tyres were very limited in choice and 18" tyres were more readily available in sportier road compounds
Click to expand...
 
Nippy Normans supply Touratech, Wunderlich, Desert Fox and many other makes of accessories.
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