1150 GSA Rear Shock Removal

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stuyvpc

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Hi all,

I've got a 2002 1150 GS Adventure that I have had from new, its got 50000 on it and unfortunately the clutch slave cylinder blew this morning. :( The new cylinder should be with me tomorrow so I've set to, with a lot of useful advice from these forums.

One problem I'm having is getting the rear shock removed from the lower mounting. The allen bolt is really tight, lots of WD40 and 'in/out' movement doesn't seem to have helped much. I'm concerned the b*****d thing won't go back in again when removed. The bike has done 25000 miles in the last 9 months including through the winter so I'm a bit concerned about corrosion in there. Or is this normal? Advice/suggestions appreciated.

Thanks, Paul
 
stuyvpc said:
Hi all,

I've got a 2002 1150 GS Adventure that I have had from new, its got 50000 on it and unfortunately the clutch slave cylinder blew this morning. :( The new cylinder should be with me tomorrow so I've set to, with a lot of useful advice from these forums.

One problem I'm having is getting the rear shock removed from the lower mounting. The allen bolt is really tight, lots of WD40 and 'in/out' movement doesn't seem to have helped much. I'm concerned the b*****d thing won't go back in again when removed. The bike has done 25000 miles in the last 9 months including through the winter so I'm a bit concerned about corrosion in there. Or is this normal? Advice/suggestions appreciated.

Thanks, Paul


It should move quite easily ... have you got the rear wheel out, and the drive shaft supported?

If not, then the point will be still loaded ....
 
Check that it is not the hydraulic line which has blown where it joins to the banjo at the slave cylinder.
 
I did this job a couple of weeks ago.

The bolt was very tight. Like said above I had a support under the drive shaft and I ended up taking the top bolt out first, which may have helped a bit :nenau. It all went back together Ok though. If the adventure is the same as a standard GS, you'll have to raise the rear frame a bit in order to get your hand in enough to get to the cylinder banjo bolt. I cut a wee bit off the end of an old allen key, which helped a lot.

The slave cylinder was fine on my bike. The problem turned out to be one of the washers on the banjo bolt. The washer was corroded and letting fluid leak out. Have a good look at all the bits before replacing bits that may be ok.
 
Thanks to Den & StooL, you're both spot on, after I got in there with the wheel off and the shock out of the way I could see the hose itself has corroded through at the join where the allen bolt holds the hose in. Squeezing the clutch lever I could see the fluid coming from there. Pretty rubbish materials if that happens so soon, my wife's tin box (1995 Passat) is still on its original brake lines. Any advice on best fluid to use in the clutch cylinder?

So a replacement hose ordered. Means my daily 150 mile commute is going to have to be in a tin box for the rest of the week :( Just when it is warming up as well.
 
Glad you sorted it, i must say how impressed i am with the mileage in the last 9 months, do you think this problem is age related or use related as my adventure is 2003 plated but with only relatively low mileage.
 
duc9160_0 said:
Glad you sorted it, i must say how impressed i am with the mileage in the last 9 months, do you think this problem is age related or use related as my adventure is 2003 plated but with only relatively low mileage.

I've posted the warning and picture about the clutch hose several times. The outer protective covering, holds water, which causes the metal hose underneth the covering to corrode
 

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duc9160_0 said:
Glad you sorted it, i must say how impressed i am with the mileage in the last 9 months, do you think this problem is age related or use related as my adventure is 2003 plated but with only relatively low mileage.

I would say its probably a combination of both, I am commuting 150 miles to and from Heathrow each day, rain and shine and it only gets a fettle at the weekends. The winter has taken its toll on the paintwork on the engine and cycle parts, there is a lot of bubbling on the engine and the front yoke has very little paint left. When any bolts have to come out they get coppaslip'd before they go back in as some are getting pretty ratty. However a stainless kit should see that right shortly. But to be honest I think any bike would take a hammering on the M4 each day.

That having been said it just gets better to ride as the mileage builds. The engine is smoother and quieter than ever, the last 3 services I haven't needed to adjust the tappets at all. While I could never enjoy that journey, now the weather has improved its not so bad.

300 miles to a tank, 11000 from a set of tyres, only on my 2nd set of brake pads (not a lot of need to brake on the M4). The alternator belt had to be replaced a couple of weeks ago as it had almost split across. Apart from that (and the current problem) its been fantastic in every respect. My problem will be what next - I can't imagine riding anything else.
 


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