1150gs down pipe removal

[Deleted account 200123001]

I'm weighing up removing the downpipes so I can give the sump and engine some paint attention.

The nuts are the non domehead type.

My plan was to take the grinder to the nuts and remove the end to expose the stud. This would then allow lubrication to be worked into the thread.
Finally, id then be able to heat the nut, before commencing any forced removal hopefully avoiding the dreaded sheared stud.

So far the bikes done 57K, what are the gut feelings on this? Is it likely to work?

Also, Bill (Fanum) if your reading this, thanks for the pointer on getting the injectors cleaned. I eventually replaced both TB's with some 20k mile jobbies, pinging finally gone.
My guess is that the ECU had compensated for the poor injector performance and installing the chip reset all the fuel trims exposing the low flow.

 

[fatnfast]

My 1150gs exhaust stud nuts were removed by myself when new and the studs covered with copper grease. This doesn't help but....

An R1100S I had later had not had this done so I faced the same dilemma as you. Rather then cut the end of the nuts of to expose the thread, I centre punched and drilled a 4mm hole slightly above centre on the end of the nut. This allowed penetrating oil (plus gas works well) to be squirted into the hole via the cans straw. I left it for a few days, adding an addition squirt now and again, and they came of easily.

When you say non dome headed nuts, Im assuming you have the standard type which are still capped at the end?

 

[Deleted account 200123001]

Rather then cut the end of the nuts of to expose the thread, I centre punched and drilled a 4mm hole slightly above centre on the end of the nut. This allowed penetrating oil (plus gas works well) to be squirted into the hole via the cans straw. I left it for a few days, adding an addition squirt now and again, and they came of easily.

When you say non dome headed nuts, Im assuming you have the standard type which are still capped at the end?

I like that idea! Many thanks. I wasn't sure if there would be much of a gap at the end but I'll certainly give it a go. Might just need to get a decent drill bit. I think I've got a centre punch.

Yes they are still capped and are the standard ones. I thought I'd seen the 1150gs listed for both types on motorworks....must have imagined it.

 

[spanner monkey]

I took mine off recently on my 1100, soaked them for days in plus gas but had the same result both sides, top one came out complete with stud, middle one sheared , bottom one just the nut came off. (There's three on an 1100)
I very carefully drilled and cleared the middle studs then re tapped the holes to remove the thread ruminants, the bottom stud was not coming out no matter what I did so I opted to leave it be.
I replaced the removed studs with stainless ones and coated them in an anti size grease used for very high temp assembly and just put a new nut on the bottom one.
Just be aware that penetrating oils don't always work and a broken stud requires careful and skilful drilling to remove it cleanly, I wouldn't try this job unless you are prepared for this to happen.
Hope you get lucky and they come out fine.

 

[King Rat]

Ask elsewhere first, but probably worth getting stainless replacements. Steptoe used to do stainless fasteners for the Tossers mounts.

 

[Slipperyeel]

Ask elsewhere first, but probably worth getting stainless replacements. Steptoe used to do stainless fasteners for the Tossers mounts.

A couple of mine need grilling out...waiting for a clear weekend to do it.

I plan to replace the studs with stainless but i will use brass domed nuts. So end of removal woes! I think this is the best solution. The brass nuts won't look so good and the ss studding will merge with the head, but neither matter

 

[King Rat]

A couple of mine need grilling out...waiting for a clear weekend to do it.

I plan to replace the studs with stainless but i will use brass domed nuts. So end of removal woes! I think this is the best solution. The brass nuts won't look so good and the ss studding will merge with the head, but neither matter

Oh, I think you are so wrong there. they will look AWESOME. Maybe copper fuel pipe while you're at it? A steampunk 1150 Adv. LOVE IT.

 

[Slipperyeel]

Oh, I think you are so wrong there. they will look AWESOME. Maybe copper fuel pipe while you're at it? A steampunk 1150 Adv. LOVE IT.

I hadn't looked at it like that. Maybe you're right

The nuts are dirt cheap so have 10 in the drawer waiting. But in theory it'll only ever need 4. I live in hope



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[spanner monkey]

Got my stainless studs and dome nuts from this chap who also sells on eBay,the quality is superb and super fast delivery too.

 

[monkeyboy]

I did drilled the small hole in the top thing on my 175k 1100s and they came off fine. As for SS studs - I think these should be high tensile steel rather than SS myself

 

[Steptoe]

. Steptoe used to do stainless fasteners for the Tossers mounts.

£6 for the 1150 GS. Domed nuts, good quality British stainless not cheap crap.

 

[King Rat]

£6 for the 1150 GS. Domed nuts, good quality British stainless not cheap crap.

There you go - perfect.

 

[theoneandonly]

Steptoe back !!! run out of places to eat at ???

 

[Slipperyeel]

What's the thinking for using HT over stainless? They're hardly under any stain? Not sure I get it?

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[tadhgocuilleain]

I'd suggest taking the bike for a good hard run before trying to remove the nuts. Get the engine good and hot and try to loosen them as soon as you get back. Wear gloves or be prepared for barbecue knuckles. I've used this method to remove 15 year old glow plugs from an engine and it worked very well (glow plugs are notorious for shearing). Hope that helps.

 

[Slipperyeel]

I'd suggest taking the bike for a good hard run before trying to remove the nuts. Get the engine good and hot and try to loosen them as soon as you get back. Wear gloves or be prepared for barbecue knuckles. I've used this method to remove 15 year old glow plugs from an engine and it worked very well (glow plugs are notorious for shearing). Hope that helps.

Good tip

 

[Deleted account 200123001]

Rather then cut the end of the nuts of to expose the thread, I centre punched and drilled a 4mm hole slightly above centre on the end of the nut.

I can happily confirm your tip worked a treat. I only used a blast of WD40 once though...So I suspect that's more luck than anything.
But all 4 came off with no trouble and without much leverage. When I looked inside the nut it had a copper tinge so I suspected they may already have been treated before.

Getting the clamping plate off is slow progress though.

 

[fatnfast]

Glad the nuts came off OK. Plenty of copper grease on reassembly and there will be no more problems ever again

This is how my R1100S pipes turned out after good polish

 

[Deleted account 200123001]

Stunning......if you get bored I have a set of "weathered" pipes that need some attention....

 

[Deleted account 200123001]

Next problem....stud removal. The threads beyond those covered by the nuts have disintegrated.... This is going fun....a sheared stud is inevitable I fear.......