1150gs engine "tapping" sound after valves adjustment

[metallic_lt]

Hello People!

I am really sorry for bothering people too much on this site with my stupid questions. Having owned ONLY Japanese bikes two Italian modern scooters and always fixing and servicing bikes myself, BMW experience is still very new to me because I haven’t been riding my BMW that long.

I adjusted valve clearance and did oil / filter change to Halfords CLASSIC Oil 20W50 this weekend and I don’t think engine sounds happier after that !

BMW 1150GS 2001 46K, no service history.

I did valve clearance check by first bringing engine to TDC point by turning engine pulley. One cylinder valves had some clearance another no clearance at all. Checked valves clearance on the cylinder that had some clearance by pulling “rocker arm” up for valves maximum clearance and ect. Turned engine clockwise to the next TDC and checked / adjuster valve on the opposite cylinder.

The “issue” I am having at the moment is that before the service I could not hear engine “tapping” ... due to exhaust / intake valves clearance being 0.10mm/0.05mm ??? ... AND NOW I CAN HEAR ENGINE tapping.

1. Is that the right noise? Is that how it should sound? Am I suppose to hear “rocker arm” tapping on valves?
2. I am afraid to start another thread on “what oil to use” BUT ... could MINERAL oil affect engine noise as well?

Many thanks and God bless you!

 

[fatnfast]

You did set them at TDC on the compression stroke and then turn the engine to do the other side on compression?
You didnt do both pots at the same time, i.e find TDC on compression for one pot and then not turn the engine to adjust the other? Hope not.
There are loads of oil threads as you can imagine, I thought the Halfords classic stuff was actually below spec, but I could be wrong.

 

[Deleted account 220427001]

I use lidl engine oil 15w/40

 

[Timolgra]

Was the engine stone cold when you adjusted the valve clearance?

 

[Ian J Hartley]

It's difficult to work out your adjustment sequence.

It's important to take out the rocker endfloat before adjusting the valves, and then to have all 4 feeler gauges inserted together.

Steptoe did a guide on it, but sadly many of the pictures are missing, particularly at which point to measure the rocker end float.

Post 1

http://www.ukgser.com/forums/showthread.php?81408-Adjusting-rocker-end-float-and-valve-clearances.

First time round I used this guide, it's a PDF so all the pictures are fixed.

http://advwisdom.hogranch.com/Wisdom/OVADv2.2.pdf

There is a similar long winded guide on rocker end float here

http://advwisdom.hogranch.com/Wisdom/OREPADv1.0.pdf.

I doubt the oil would make any difference, it's new and the right grade.

 

[Mr K]

Valve clearances tend to close up over time, so it's only natural for you to be able to hear them more after adjustment.

 

[metallic_lt]

No, i didn't do both side together. I found "loose" TDC on one side checked and adjusted, then turned the engine few time to make sure the other side was "tight" -> "loose" -> "tight" -> "loose" before I did another side. It was not that obvious from ALL diy guides I read that you need to measure "loose" side of valves

 

[metallic_lt]

Yes, bike stood for a few days.

 

[Steptoe]

Put the tools down and step away from the bike.

 

[alphadog]

if in doubt get a manual and just follow directions, it takes away a lot of the guesswork like hunting for loose, tight, tdc, bdc, rock this and shaft that.

 

[metallic_lt]

Checked valves today. It looks like I made them "on the loose side" of specs. Ordered wurth feeler gauges to do it according to steptoe tutorial - with 4 feeler gauges.

I will step away from diy motorcycle and car maintanance one day when my hourly rate gets closer to mechanic's charge rates but until then i am afraid it is trail and error ... frustrating learning curve. BTW, dropped the timing plug into the engine casing! As i said trail and error ... just covered hole with gaffer tape

Thanks Everybody!

 

[Comfy Old Boots]

Don't worry about the timeing plug. I've three of them in there!

Sent from my HTC One using Tapatalk

 

[monkeyboy]

Checked valves today. It looks like I made them "on the loose side" of specs. Ordered wurth feeler gauges to do it according to steptoe tutorial - with 4 feeler gauges.

I will step away from diy motorcycle and car maintanance one day when my hourly rate gets closer to mechanic's charge rates but until then i am afraid it is trail and error
Thanks Everybody!

It's the only way to learn mate - we've all been there.

 

[Steptoe]

Checked valves today. It looks like I made them "on the loose side" of specs. Ordered wurth feeler gauges to do it according to steptoe tutorial - with 4 feeler gauges.

I've never used or ever suggested using 4 feeler gauges. No need whatsoever. One is enough to measure a gap.
What benefit to measuring a single gap does using four at the same time to measure four gaps give..

It started on the american forums, and they love a protracted over complicated procedure and a ten page "how to" when a few paragraphs would suffice.

 

[DrFarkoff]

I do tend to use 2 feeler blades But I usually do the end float check first, then inlets and then move over to the exhausts (and the thicker gauges)

4 at one time must be well talented (and an Octopus )

 

[metallic_lt]

Redone valve adjustment with 4 gauges and found it very convenient. Just not sure why it made it more convenient: the fact that it was my 4th attempt to do valves on this bike or 4 feeler gauges?!

Found the knocking sound source, by-the-way. Worn throttle bodies. Will have a look at the options at some time.

Thanks everybody for your input. (bow)