1150GSA final drive oil leak

Steptoe

Thansk for the very comprehensive explanation of the seal replacment - if nothing else, you have confirmed that this is beyond my resources and abilities! I'm gonna need a dealer to do this one.....

V
 
my 04 gsa did just the same after riding two up and the camping gear from italy i took the clips off and cleaned out the gaiter refitted that was last year
no a sign since gearbox and final drive levels spot on
just a glitch

"Praise the lord and pass the Ammunition"
 
I had something similar. Looked like oil, so i took the bike to the dealer and one of the mechanics told me it was just the grease they pack in the universal joint melting due to the hot weather. That was a year ago. Oil level is fine and no more lubricant coming out.
 
Thanks Steptoe, writeups like that are invaluable to us home mechanics :thumb2
 
Got the same leak, checked both levels and found the Gearbox had been overfilled at a service, 3k ago.
Draining it as we speak.

Does this mean that it`s the seal on the gearbox side that`s leaking and if so should it be changed or will I just keep an eye on the levels?
 
Top stuff again Steppers!

Probably the first pictorial report ever in the internet about bevel box'es input seal replacment along with self made exotic tools :thumb2

Keep it commin', Margus :beerjug:
 
How many mechanics would post pictures of "how to do this" ?

Mr. Neil Harrison, AKA Steptoe, thank you.

Wow, that is some rechargeable electric impact gun! Surprised your wrist can take the strain! ........................... err, use special "training" do you?:eek:

I believe:confused: the phrase is ............... go do one :augie :D
 
I may have to do this little job shortly as I have signs of this leak, I'm monitoring the situation, so as a precursor to it all going a bit pete tong.

The special tool thats required to remove the threaded ring is this a fairly generic part or is it BMW specific ? if it's generic does anybody know the size of this tool (thats just asking for trouble that statement :) )

cheers for any help or pointers
 
Depends how the other end is machined. Will it will be set up to connect with the other bmw special tool, which may not be a socket :augie

Does this mean there's more faffing about, I was hoping to just weld a plate with a suitable large nut to the top of the tool, so it could be torqued up correctly, I'm I mistaken ?
 
after this year's tour of france i have a mild case of this, I'm going to change the oil in the drive and the 'box soon so i'll see if i've lost any.
 
Ok, leaking rear input seal on your bevel drive.

If your doing this job, you know enough to be able to take off the rear bevel .

Here's the seal thats leaking. it's hidden behind the securing nut, you can just see it



As well as replacing the seal, you'll also need the inner seal ring.
This can have a groove worn on it's surface, as it spins inside the seal at shaft speed. Only a couple of pounds, so makes sense to replace it regardless while your doing the job.

Here's the ring from the leaking bevel.



And here's a new ring.



Put the bevel in a vice. I screw in two old wheel studs in the output wheel flange, and position the bevel in such a way that they'll stop the internals rotating as i undo the securing nut on the input shaft.

You'll need a deep 36mm socket to undo the input bevel securing nut. And it's tight - 200 nm.

I have a big feck-off cordless electric impact gun. Max Torque 400 Ib ft :eek:



Undo the nut - bang whizz.


Now you have to undo the securing ring. It'll need a special tool.
I made my own, and then welded a large nut on the end of the tube because this ring is also done up tight - 160 nm. It's not made to look pretty, it has a job to do.





This is inserted inside, impact gun attached , bang whizz, and it's off. You can use some heat on it when removing the nut and ring if you need to. .



You should now have the nut, seal ring, and securing ring. The seal is in the securing ring. All the old items in the picture below.



New seal and ring



Remove the old seal from the securing ring. You'll notice a lip on the securing ring, the seal only goes in one way, from the rear.

The front of the ring



The rear of the ring.



Now carefully insert the seal into the rear. Picture view looking at the rear.



And from the front.



Now carefully screw the ring back into the bevel unit. Torque setting 160 NM



And then slide the ring over the input shaft and into the seal. The picture shows the ring after it's been pushed into the seal

.

And then screw the input bevel nut back on - torque200 Nm.


And it should look like this when it's finished :D
Check it all turns by hand before replacing the bevel back on the bike.


I know I’m 12 years too late to this thread, but this looks like exactly the write-up I need. Unfortunately it looks like the links to the pictures have expired. Does anyone have an illustrated version ? Many thanks.
 
Hi,

Need to do this job in the not too distant future. I think I have the appropriate tools and parts but could do with some guidance on how to lock the bevel drive to prevent it turning when removing and installing the shaft nut to the correct torque.

Has anyone any tips or photos - I have a solid vice to hold the drive via the wheel bolts but need to stop the drive rotating when torquing up?

Cheers, D
 
You also need a special tool to open the big nut.
KD Tools 2467 suits for the purpose.

s-l1600.jpg
 
Hi, thanks - I've got the BMW tool so all good there. Just struggling to think of a way to lock the bevel drive without having to fabricate a jig.
 


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