1150R Telelever Arm on 1150GS

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snoopy

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Steptoe has advised the funky front arm on the 1150R Rockster/Roadster will fit the 1150GS with very slight change to the driving set-up.

On r1150R.org I was told by one American that this front is no good for off-roading the 1150 weight, however I'd like some to see if there is some experience of that on this site, given the American will be fat and therefore offering a biased opinion.

:D
 
I picked up a black 1150R telelever off eBay, a few months ago.

The pivot & bearings are different from the GS so either, fit the GS bearing set or get the 1150R pivot. I fitted it & it looks great but the Yank is probably right about the off-roading. The welds & plates used are probably not up to the beating they'd get...
 

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I picked up a black 1150R telelever off eBay, a few months ago.

The pivot & bearings are different from the GS so either, fit the GS bearing set or get the 1150R pivot. I fitted it & it looks great but the Yank is probably right about the off-roading. The welds & plates used are probably not up to the beating they'd get...
Hi, I'm thinking of doing this mod, did you use the r1150r ball joint?
 
Hi, I'm thinking of doing this mod, did you use the r1150r ball joint?
No, I just kept the GS fork bridge and joint as I had a front mudguard for the alloy front wheel that was made especially to go with it.

You could use the R fork bridge and joint if you are also using alloy wheels, though. Then an R front mudguard would fit. Most things are quite modular and swappable.
 
My mechanic swears the R telelever is built more robust that the original GS ones. He has seen a few broken ones for the latter. I am looking to replace it but am thinking if the TT hard part steering stop will also fit on the Rs.
 
I picked up a black 1150R telelever off eBay, a few months ago.

The pivot & bearings are different from the GS so either, fit the GS bearing set or get the 1150R pivot. I fitted it & it looks great but the Yank is probably right about the off-roading. The welds & plates used are probably not up to the beating they'd get...

No, I just kept the GS fork bridge and joint as I had a front mudguard for the alloy front wheel that was made especially to go with it.

You could use the R fork bridge and joint if you are also using alloy wheels, though. Then an R front mudguard would fit. Most things are quite modular and swappable.
Thanks for the reply. If it fits I'd prefer to install an a r1150r balljoint because of the dome shape top washer/boot retainer being the proper fit, vs flat top on the GS one. Do you know if the bottom r1150r bottom balljoint thread will screw into the GS yoke? If it does i'll buy a new one and spray up my spare yoke in preparation.
 
Thanks for the reply. If it fits I'd prefer to install an a r1150r balljoint because of the dome shape top washer/boot retainer being the proper fit, vs flat top on the GS one. Do you know if the bottom r1150r bottom balljoint thread will screw into the GS yoke? If it does i'll buy a new one and spray up my spare yoke in preparation.
I can’t confirm, but realoem.com may give you some more detail that will help. The ball joint thread into the bridge has a massive torque setting of around 240nm so I’ve never bothered with it in the 22 yrs I’ve had the bike. I bought an ‘as new’ spare GS fork bridge that has sat in a box for around 20yrs too. It came with the ball joint and boot fitted but, when I notice the boot had split on the original one, it was £3.99 for a new one and took about 30mins to fit.
 
I can’t confirm, but realoem.com may give you some more detail that will help. The ball joint thread into the bridge has a massive torque setting of around 240nm so I’ve never bothered with it in the 22 yrs I’ve had the bike. I bought an ‘as new’ spare GS fork bridge that has sat in a box for around 20yrs too. It came with the ball joint and boot fitted but, when I notice the boot had split on the original one, it was £3.99 for a new one and took about 30mins to fit.
Okay thanks. They have different part numbers, bottom thread size isn't listed unfortunately, so I've written to Motorworks as they should have them in stock to compare. Knowing I can use the GS ball joint is helpful, not sure I can remove it myself at home. On youtube someone heated it up on the bike, and a second person locked the forks using a long bar covered in cloth, near the yolk.
 
I can’t confirm, but realoem.com may give you some more detail that will help. The ball joint thread into the bridge has a massive torque setting of around 240nm so I’ve never bothered with it in the 22 yrs I’ve had the bike. I bought an ‘as new’ spare GS fork bridge that has sat in a box for around 20yrs too. It came with the ball joint and boot fitted but, when I notice the boot had split on the original one, it was £3.99 for a new one and took about 30mins to fit.
Motorworks confirmed the R1150R balljoint screws into the R1150GS yoke.
 
I fitted a new top yoke from an 1100RT as a free spare after a large prang in south America donated at a BMW dealers in Panmama city came from an old police bike and has worked fine over a large milege. One prob was they did not tighten the joint up to the correct tourqe and it came loose during a rough off road session., happy days!.
 
I fitted a new top yoke from an 1100RT as a free spare after a large prang in south America donated at a BMW dealers in Panmama city came from an old police bike and has worked fine over a large milege. One prob was they did not tighten the joint up to the correct tourqe and it came loose during a rough off road session., happy days!.
Are you talking about the “same thing” ? The top yolk of an RT is completely different to a GS - the RT doesn’t have handlebars, it has two separate left and right “bars sections” that bolt directly onto each side of the top yolk using 4 bolts on each side.
 


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