12 volts but no heat?

bikenav

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hello there all, left hand heated grip working fine but no heat off the right. peculiar thing is that there is 12v going through the heating element wire on the "cold" right side ie no apparent breaks in the wire or supply ,this is the old style spiral thin wire 2005 type, I am guessing I am down amps, but I am no spark, any ideas what to look for and how to repair thanks .
 
Should be an easy fix

hello there all, left hand heated grip working fine but no heat off the right. peculiar thing is that there is 12v going through the heating element wire on the "cold" right side ie no apparent breaks in the wire or supply ,this is the old style spiral thin wire 2005 type, I am guessing I am down amps, but I am no spark, any ideas what to look for and how to repair thanks .

I have come across this problem the heating element will be broken under the grip.Peel back the grip with out destroying it unwrap one turn of the wire element and twist the ends together then finish joint with solder. Re wrap with self amagamating tape and slide grip back on.
 
Mine work but have never been hot even on ** setting. The * setting gets warm but not enough to feel though gloves.

Has anyone ever fitted new elements to these grips? For example -

500MTRR.jpg
 
hello there all, left hand heated grip working fine but no heat off the right. peculiar thing is that there is 12v going through the heating element wire on the "cold" right side ie no apparent breaks in the wire or supply ,this is the old style spiral thin wire 2005 type, I am guessing I am down amps, but I am no spark, any ideas what to look for and how to repair thanks .
Yup, the element in the grip is goosed.
 
have done some more investigations definitly no breaks in the element run wires direct from battery to ends of element coil immediat heat. even found out that on the low setting the current is intermitent similar to flashers(flasher type relay?)as opposed to on high it is continuous. so there is feed from the switch did notice that using a test lamp a distinct reduction in brightness the further along the coil I went, would that be normal? My feeling is that there is just not enough power (amps?) there to create heat.Should mention at this time that I have replaced the element wire myself with the proper diameter stuff and it was working fine for half of last winter. Any ideas might there be a gadget to control the power to the element bearing in mind the other grip is fine, thanks for help so far.
 
Hi
You need to consider that the grip circuit has two sides to it, that being the positive supply 'to' the grip and then the element itself which
is the 'consumer' and then the ground circuit after the element.
You should test for voltage drops on the positive side of the circuit and the ground side of the circuit.
Note you can only test for voltage drops with the circuit switched on(element connected).

You need to establish that the positive supply wire is in good condition and then the ground return wire also as poor wiring or connections
will cause a voltage drop to occur and this will cause the grip to be less efficient (not enough current flow due to the voltage drop in the circuit).

I can if you want me to try and explain how to do this or get your local bike tech to test it for you :thumb
If you want me to explain just let me know the circuit of the grips EG where does supply feed from/any relays? etc etc

Deano
 
Just read that you say that you have 12v on the cold side grip.
Do you have 12 volts when it is switched on?
If you have a 12v supply to the element and a 12volt supply at the other end of the element wire at the grip then the ground circuit is the problem.

You need to be sure how the ground is designed as it may be by using PWM (pulsed width modulation)
where the bikes control unit will control the 'on' time of the ground in milli seconds (this will be how we get 2 heat settings for the grips if PWM is used).
OR the bike has uses a resistor circuit for heat setting 1 and 2.
Probably best for your local sparky to take a look :beerjug:
 
If you're getting volties but no ampies then a high resistance is indicated. Look for bad connections to start.
 


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