1200 G\S Rallye Best exhaust configuration

Dezi58

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Seeking feedback / advice on what changes other members have made to their exhaust system wrt what works and what doesn’t.

After reading a lot of information on various sites im thinking of AKRO headers with the standard silencer, using the original oxygen sensor if possible.

Not seeking any great up lift just a general overall improvement wrt sound and pick up but want to avoid dyno’s and ecu changes, preferably just plug and play.

Cheers d

PS Budget is a consideration so second hand headers would not be discounted
 
Seeking feedback / advice on what changes other members have made to their exhaust system wrt what works and what doesn’t.

After reading a lot of information on various sites im thinking of AKRO headers with the standard silencer, using the original oxygen sensor if possible.

Not seeking any great up lift just a general overall improvement wrt sound and pick up but want to avoid dyno’s and ecu changes, preferably just plug and play.

Cheers d

PS Budget is a consideration so second hand headers would not be discounted
I’d be speaking with Pier City Customs. They have to be the most experienced business in this country for tuning and customising these bikes.
 
Thanks but the bike is just about specced to death just needs a little character.
I was more after some pointers such as best combo’s eg akro headers / standard can works / doesn’t work or vfm black window vis a vis akro headers
but cheers anyway
 
Seeking feedback / advice on what changes other members have made to their exhaust system wrt what works and what doesn’t.

After reading a lot of information on various sites im thinking of AKRO headers with the standard silencer, using the original oxygen sensor if possible.

Not seeking any great up lift just a general overall improvement wrt sound and pick up but want to avoid dyno’s and ecu changes, preferably just plug and play.

Cheers d

PS Budget is a consideration so second hand headers would not be discounted
I ordered the Akra headers with my dealer back in December when I ordered the bike, but am still waiting for them to arrive. Latest news is delivery next week, but I'll believe it when I see it!
I was planning on keeping the stock end can, so once the headers are fitted I'll let you know my thoughts.
 
……….if you do bin the CAT, probably need the Rapid fuelling module too. Pier City
 
……….if you do bin the CAT, probably need the Rapid fuelling module too. Pier City
Their web site states not suitable for any bike pre 2021 and very few models post 2021
 
They also state it can be switched off to comply with emission tests!!
The modules are kinda bike specific. Check with Piercity for your application. I used on my R9T and plug and play. There’s APP to control too.
 
I’m actually assuming you’ve got an R1200GS Rallye (LC) the same as mine (2018 GSA Rallye). I initially removed the headers on mine, but it ran really lean mid range. Even with the Booster Plug. So I reverted back to stock headers with Arrow can. I removed the flappy cables too - so valve constantly open. The Booster Plug is still on and runs better than decat configuration.
If you go full Decat, you’ll probably need to remap or it’ll run dangerously lean mid revs 🤔
 
I’m actually assuming you’ve got an R1200GS Rallye (LC) the same as mine (2018 GSA Rallye). I initially removed the headers on mine, but it ran really lean mid range. Even with the Booster Plug. So I reverted back to stock headers with Arrow can. I removed the flappy cables too - so valve constantly open. The Booster Plug is still on and runs better than decat configuration.
If you go full Decat, you’ll probably need to remap or it’ll run dangerously lean mid revs 🤔
Yep same bike R1200GS Rallye TE (centre stand version) I’m just trying to avoid the rabbit hole i went down with a previous bike messing around with exhausts
 
Yep same bike R1200GS Rallye TE (centre stand version) I’m just trying to avoid the rabbit hole i went down with a previous bike messing around with exhausts
Unless you’re prepared to remap, I’d avoid removing the headers (and CAT). Your bike is Euro 4, but still has a “closed loop” setup. The Booster Plug is cheap and does improve fuelling a little. I’d also remove the flap valve cables (but keep all electrical connectors in place). This will leave the valve wide open. Then pick the end can of your choice. This will likely be enough, but you can always change header y piece later if you’re still not content. Most of the aftermarket cans are compatible with the Akra y piece anyway. This will need remapping though and there’s loads of threads on here discussing. Just search “hilltop”!! lol
PS. There’s usually used headers on eBay if you do decide on the “rabbit hole” route?! 😬
 
Unless you’re prepared to remap, I’d avoid removing the headers (and CAT). Your bike is Euro 4, but still has a “closed loop” setup. The Booster Plug is cheap and does improve fuelling a little. I’d also remove the flap valve cables (but keep all electrical connectors in place). This will leave the valve wide open. Then pick the end can of your choice. This will likely be enough, but you can always change header y piece later if you’re still not content. Most of the aftermarket cans are compatible with the Akra y piece anyway. This will need remapping though and there’s loads of threads on here discussing. Just search “hilltop”!! lol
PS. There’s usually used headers on eBay if you do decide on the “rabbit hole” route?! 😬
Cheers, im thinking black window headers / servo buddy / standard end can, the servo buddy should (?) eliminate need for remapping etc
 
Cheers, im thinking black window headers / servo buddy / standard end can, the servo buddy should (?) eliminate need for remapping etc
The servo buddy is useless for your bike because you won’t have any fault codes on your dash by eliminating flap valve. It doesn’t change fuelling, it just stops fault codes on the newer 1250.
Many are brave and run without fuelling changes, but the bike already runs lean (especially midrange) in standard setup.
My mate had the dyno machine that measures AFR and showed me how lean mid range was. He specialised in Dynojet Power Commander, but wouldn’t work with closed loop setup. Complete overwrite remap is only solution. Booster Plug tricks the bike into thinking it’s cold outside and sends more fuel across the range, but many argue that the ECU eventually figures it out and reverts back to lean setting.
Don’t get me wrong, I ran my bike for 6 months with headers and Arrow can and only Booster Plug. It just runs a lot better with stock headers back on………especially at low and midrange.
Pays your money and takes you chance!! 😬
 


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