Ozz
Registered user
So yesterday I conducted my own 12k mile service. This is just a few notes for those who may be interested.
Prep - I bought the the rear Brembo pads, oil filter, plugs, oil filter wrench, thin walled plug socket, crush washer / o ring for oil and FD drain plugs and FD filler as well as feeler guages from Motorworks. Very good service and obs some of the items will be used again in the future. Oils were from Amazon and Front Brembo pads from Bike Torque Racing.
I also downloaded the BMW service pdf to fill in, bought an online subscription to Haynes and created a diagram of the valves so that I could record the clearances.
Time - Approx 4 hours. Didn't rush myself. I have changed plugs, pads and oils on bikes before, but never measured valve clearances. Next time should be quicker though I will never rush myself. The Haynes manual here is invaluable as it gives step by step guidance and the online version is in full colour.
Grim Reaper reset my service indicator and advised just how fast the oil comes out of the sumo - to the point that it will overwhelm oil catch tanks. Go for an open drain tray. Thanks Grim.
Results - plugs appeared to be clean burning. Both appeared the same and no indication of rich or lean running.
Oil did drop out a fair rate. Not much swarf on the sump plug. However I was surprised at the amount that then came out once I took the valve covers off.
Measuring valve clearances were a doddle once I had a good look. Placed a normal straw into the spark plug aperture, stuck into sixth gear and the slowly jogged the wheel round with one hand while praising the straw in gently with the other. Once the straw stopped being pushed up by the piston and the valves were closed (as per Haynes manual) I knew I was at TDC. After that it was just a case of placing varying thicknesses of quages between shim and follower.
The airfilter yet had been replaced earlier with a K&N. Brake fluids (F&R) as well as clutch fluid were fine and were not replaced. All brake pads were mainly because they'd been in place for two years.
Front Pads had 3mm of material left and have been retained as emergency spares. Rear pads had 2mm left but one had had a significant chip present. Front are now sintered and rear are carbon. At 12068m I think info a lot of engine braking.
Valve clearances were within tolerances. Left intakes were .11mm and exhausts were .34mm. Right intakes were .11 & .12mm and exhausts were .35mm.
The FD oil looked manky - very dark and there was a lot of crap on the drain plug; almost impacted onto the inside of the plug. I've got a suspicion that either my FD is eating itself or it has never been changed in the last two services it's been through.
All in all quite easy. I saved myself some cash, but actually as I said Grim Reaper, I now know a lot more about my bike; what makes it tick and what goes where. The first start up after refilling the oil was a revelation as the valve followers were quite loud until the oil started flowing.
I'm not that mechanically minded. Haynes helped massively - well laid out with all the specs for each bit as well as torque values. It even goes through the engine suppression check.
Really enjoyed it - shame the bike is now washed and parked as I'm off to the US tomorrow.
Prep - I bought the the rear Brembo pads, oil filter, plugs, oil filter wrench, thin walled plug socket, crush washer / o ring for oil and FD drain plugs and FD filler as well as feeler guages from Motorworks. Very good service and obs some of the items will be used again in the future. Oils were from Amazon and Front Brembo pads from Bike Torque Racing.
I also downloaded the BMW service pdf to fill in, bought an online subscription to Haynes and created a diagram of the valves so that I could record the clearances.
Time - Approx 4 hours. Didn't rush myself. I have changed plugs, pads and oils on bikes before, but never measured valve clearances. Next time should be quicker though I will never rush myself. The Haynes manual here is invaluable as it gives step by step guidance and the online version is in full colour.
Grim Reaper reset my service indicator and advised just how fast the oil comes out of the sumo - to the point that it will overwhelm oil catch tanks. Go for an open drain tray. Thanks Grim.
Results - plugs appeared to be clean burning. Both appeared the same and no indication of rich or lean running.
Oil did drop out a fair rate. Not much swarf on the sump plug. However I was surprised at the amount that then came out once I took the valve covers off.
Measuring valve clearances were a doddle once I had a good look. Placed a normal straw into the spark plug aperture, stuck into sixth gear and the slowly jogged the wheel round with one hand while praising the straw in gently with the other. Once the straw stopped being pushed up by the piston and the valves were closed (as per Haynes manual) I knew I was at TDC. After that it was just a case of placing varying thicknesses of quages between shim and follower.
The airfilter yet had been replaced earlier with a K&N. Brake fluids (F&R) as well as clutch fluid were fine and were not replaced. All brake pads were mainly because they'd been in place for two years.
Front Pads had 3mm of material left and have been retained as emergency spares. Rear pads had 2mm left but one had had a significant chip present. Front are now sintered and rear are carbon. At 12068m I think info a lot of engine braking.
Valve clearances were within tolerances. Left intakes were .11mm and exhausts were .34mm. Right intakes were .11 & .12mm and exhausts were .35mm.
The FD oil looked manky - very dark and there was a lot of crap on the drain plug; almost impacted onto the inside of the plug. I've got a suspicion that either my FD is eating itself or it has never been changed in the last two services it's been through.
All in all quite easy. I saved myself some cash, but actually as I said Grim Reaper, I now know a lot more about my bike; what makes it tick and what goes where. The first start up after refilling the oil was a revelation as the valve followers were quite loud until the oil started flowing.
I'm not that mechanically minded. Haynes helped massively - well laid out with all the specs for each bit as well as torque values. It even goes through the engine suppression check.
Really enjoyed it - shame the bike is now washed and parked as I'm off to the US tomorrow.
it just seems wrong but apparently thats what ya do.....
