Bendy toy
Registered user
Mine is off the bike so I thought grab the chance to look at the internals.
The motor back end had two hex head bolts and two cross head screws.
Remove both hex get bolts they are long. Leave the cross heads in place.
Also remove the positive power tail nut and the power lead nut (both 13mm AF). Take off the plastic cover.
The motor end cover will now pull out complete with rotor and brushes.
Inside I found some rust not a lot but I'm glad I looked. I brushed out all debris from the magnets. Then soaked it with ACF-50.
The brushes looked ok but the brush carrier was quite rusty on one side. The zinc plate layer is very thin.
I decided to take the back end apart.
Remove the two cross heads (PZ-2 driver).
Push off the C washer. It's not clipped to the shaft. Place washers to one side.
Lift off brush carrier take care there are four carbon brushes (attached) but four plastic carriers and four coil springs (not attached). Don't let anything fly away.
I cleaned away all dust and coated the brush plate with ACF-50. No powder coat bollox here.
Putting it back is fiddly so I used a small zip tie to pull each brush into it's holder. Tip - run the clips under the brush flexes.
Smear a little grease on the back bearing bush.
The brush holder can now be put into the commutator. The zip-ties won't let it go right down but no worries
Hold the brush holder in place, cut a zip-tie and pull it away. Repeat for the other three. The holder with brushes will slip into place.
Slide the armature back into the stator casing and line up the lid with the power lead rubber.
Put the two long screws back onto place and tighten. Be careful they are only M4 threads.
Clean out the back bearing housing and fill with fresh grease. Replace flat washer and C washer then replace the bearing cover.
Finally clean off the gunk and put the motor back on the bike.
I chose to put grease into the epicyclic gears and front bearing bush. It was completely dry so hopefully lubrication will be a good thing.
The motor back end had two hex head bolts and two cross head screws.
Remove both hex get bolts they are long. Leave the cross heads in place.
Also remove the positive power tail nut and the power lead nut (both 13mm AF). Take off the plastic cover.
The motor end cover will now pull out complete with rotor and brushes.
Inside I found some rust not a lot but I'm glad I looked. I brushed out all debris from the magnets. Then soaked it with ACF-50.
The brushes looked ok but the brush carrier was quite rusty on one side. The zinc plate layer is very thin.
I decided to take the back end apart.
Remove the two cross heads (PZ-2 driver).
Push off the C washer. It's not clipped to the shaft. Place washers to one side.
Lift off brush carrier take care there are four carbon brushes (attached) but four plastic carriers and four coil springs (not attached). Don't let anything fly away.
I cleaned away all dust and coated the brush plate with ACF-50. No powder coat bollox here.
Putting it back is fiddly so I used a small zip tie to pull each brush into it's holder. Tip - run the clips under the brush flexes.
Smear a little grease on the back bearing bush.
The brush holder can now be put into the commutator. The zip-ties won't let it go right down but no worries
Hold the brush holder in place, cut a zip-tie and pull it away. Repeat for the other three. The holder with brushes will slip into place.
Slide the armature back into the stator casing and line up the lid with the power lead rubber.
Put the two long screws back onto place and tighten. Be careful they are only M4 threads.
Clean out the back bearing housing and fill with fresh grease. Replace flat washer and C washer then replace the bearing cover.
Finally clean off the gunk and put the motor back on the bike.
I chose to put grease into the epicyclic gears and front bearing bush. It was completely dry so hopefully lubrication will be a good thing.
