1200 suspension settings - Non ESA

[David Price]

Guys,

I've done a search on this site and can't find the answer

I've recently bought a 1200 Black Edition with manual suspension adjustment.

The manual recommends 10 clicks from minimum preload adjustment for normal use

What setting would the collective recommend when fully laden, with pillion and luggage, at max payload?

The manual doesn't really help

Thanks in advance

Dave

 

[Dellis]

You're looking to get to the same attitude when loaded as when empty. To do this get on the bike with the solo settings no pillion or luggage, point the bike at a wall and note where the line of dipped beam shows on the wall. Add pillion and luggage the point at the same wall from the same distance and add preload until the line of dipped beam is in the same place, you may need to REDUCE front preload as you won't be adding weight to the front. Adjust, ride fine tune and see where you end up then make a note of the settings - job done

On my last 1200 fully loaded was fully wound in at the rear and one notch down on the front, previous 1200 was similar.

Dave

 

[adventuredon]

Any adjustment needed on damping? Or for that matter, where should damping be?

 

[RedRick Esq.]

My experience is that oem non ESA is shit !
I tried all variations of adjustments and was never completely happy with it. It was always too soggy in corners or too harsh on straights. I cured this problem by buying wilburs !

 

[Dellis]

Any adjustment needed on damping? Or for that matter, where should damping be?

There's only rebound on the rear and I was pretty much at the max - rule of thumb with basic suspension is keep adding a few turns until the wallows stop or only show up in extreme situations.

My experience is that oem non ESA is shit !
I tried all variations of adjustments and was never completely happy with it. It was always too soggy in corners or too harsh on straights. I cured this problem by buying wilburs !

ESA is only the means of adjustment, and I stand to be corrected, afik the shocks are the same. ESA means you can't add preload to one shock and move the other in the opposite direction. Far better to adjust independantly as you see fit rather than press a button and adjust to what BMW think is 'right' for the average rider/pillion/luggage mix.

I've done 100,00 miles on GS's without ESA and about 10,000 miles on a K1200r with ESA. the only advantage other than not having to twiddle a know is that you can soften the damping on a motorway and firm it up when you get on smaller roads which is a nice touch.

Dave

 

[Neil W]

junk standard and fit maxton

 

[stick]

My experience is that oem non ESA is shit !
I tried all variations of adjustments and was never completely happy with it. It was always too soggy in corners or too harsh on straights. I cured this problem by buying wilburs !

Same with me , not the cheapest option but the aftermarket ,whether Wilburs or Maxton etc will give to the correct damping shims and spring weight etc to give you the best set up.
This is a great addition to the standard bike. I have had Wilburs on my non esa and also my last esa 1200, both gave massive improvments. Call Revs for the Wilburs as this is my preference.
You may find second hand units on the net but be aware they will have to be re valved / re sprung if the shock is not suited to your weight etc.
With the Wilburs you can get basic shocks upto the fully adjustable all singing and dancing ....... Revs 0121 501 3321 , ask for Jon and say Dave Porter gave you the number, hes a great guy.

 

[Bendy toy]

Ive been amazed by Wilbers on a different bike. I've been less impressed by Hagon (usually too stiff).

On The ESA I hardly ever use Sport (hard damping). 3/4 of the time, I use "Comfort" and the remaining time its in "Normal" mode. So my guess would be that 25% or 50% are likely to be good start points for non ESA shocks. Try both then split the difference until you find the sweet spot.

 

[Bendy toy]

Buy these
http://www.ukgser.com/forums/showthread.php?365275-1200gs-adv-wilbers-shock-absorbers

Unless they are hardly used, get them serviced at Revs Racing. All shocks should be be regularly serviced to avoid internal damage when the oil goes off.

 

[Neil W]

standard rear shock is a pia, if you set it up for solo to handle you need to up the damping and preload, when you start off it will be okay BUT once the shock warms up it will lose damping , so you up the preload to get it to handle then it starts to pogo.
Two up with luggage you end up with it wound right up on all the settings and then the damping fades and it handles like a total camel.
Experience from my new gsa which had the rear shock replaced at 2600 miles and its replacement was just as bad, went to Maxton and got new front and rear shocks in september 2011, the front has never been touched and the rear is left standard when solo either touring or pushing on, two up with luggage it gets 1 1/2 turns on the preload and never fades and the bike handles brilliantly

 

[RichardDunn]

I think m,y rear preload had seized, as bout second hand 2007 gs, 28,000 miles, great one up, but sgas 2 up. I have managed to free the pre load knob, but not sure if it works correctly. when wound fully right, does it go loose...ish? any help would be great, heading into Wales on Monday 2 up, luggage etc, and i would like it right>
cheers

 

[RichardDunn]

(reposted due to crap spelling!!) I think my rear preload had seized, as bought a second hand 2007 gs, with 28,000 miles, great one up, but sags 2 up. I have managed to free the pre load knob, but not sure if it works correctly. when wound fully right, does it go loose...ish? any help would be great, heading into Wales on Monday 2 up, luggage etc, and i would like it right! it states in the manual, fully turn knob right???
cheers

 

[adventuredon]

If. You mean turn it out as in loosening the preloaded it does get very loose. My manual says different, 2010 g's. Preloaded for normal weight is about 5 clicks wound on from completely loose. If too soft, tighten and see
hope this helps

 

[RichardDunn]

Thanks for the respone. erm, high is clockwise, low is counter clockwise. when i turn it fully clockwise it becomes very loose, it gets tighter as it is turned the opposite way, Im not sure if this is ok or not?? :/

 

[Jon P]

I have a 07 GS and when two up turn everything up max and when not two up I wind it back down a bit. I find that there is a good range of adjustment of spring preload and damping. This is my second GS and always found the shocks to be fine. You'll soon find the 'sweetspot for your weight / riding style)

I did once fit an Ohlins to my 1100GS (the BMW shock damping screw broke) and didn't really notice the big difference some folks seem to talk about, 'though I did notice a wider range of adjustment.

 

[Jon P]

Thanks for the respone. erm, high is clockwise, low is counter clockwise. when i turn it fully clockwise it becomes very loose, it gets tighter as it is turned the opposite way, Im not sure if this is ok or not?? :/

They usually become loose during the last couple of clicks when winding it out (softer). They get stiff in the last couple of clicks when winding it in (harder).

 

[Engineer]

Guys,

I've done a search on this site and can't find the answer

I've recently bought a 1200 Black Edition with manual suspension adjustment.

The manual recommends 10 clicks from minimum preload adjustment for normal use

What setting would the collective recommend when fully laden, with pillion and luggage, at max payload?

The manual doesn't really help

Thanks in advance

Dave

fully laden requires max pre-load and max rebound damping.

 

[RichardDunn]

Thanks guys, I have made the trip, and it seems to have worked. I turned the screw up th hard, and back a quarter, and the preload 2 clicks back from hard, seems great, but wonder if I softened the front end one click, as a little light (feeling) on the front. Rides a lot better than with a load of sag though!!

 

[Fluffy Bridges]

I see you've done the trip but this might be of benefit. Posted it last year..

"Both my wife and I tour extensively on my '09 GSA. Neither of us are what you might call well covered. Both of us together weigh in at about 19 stone wet through. With both ally panniers and top box stuffed and with a monstrous tank bag I have to wind the rear pre load on nearly all the way and wind up the damping to just off fully stiff (!). The front pre load is up one notch.
Like this the Old Girl is still a bit saggy for me, but I like a firm ride (lets not go there!). Having said that, it's better for long distance touring to be a bit on the soft side for comfort".

Have fun.

Fluff.

 

[RichardDunn]

Thanks guys, fully loaded settings that worked, 2 clicks from full on preload, and 1/2 turn from hard on damping.....worked for me, cheersdamping,