1200 Twin Cam Questions

RD.

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Hi All,

I plan to service my bike with the aid of a forum member but need to a few questions first.

I'm informed that the gearbox and final drive use the same oil and 1 litre will be enough for both changes.
Please could someone confirm whether Castrol Syntrax 75w / 90 Longlife (Formerly SAF-XO Castrol Syntrax 75w / 90 Universal or the Limited Slip gear oils? :nenau

Please see link http://www.opieoils.co.uk/vsearch.aspx?SearchTerm=syntrax
Which type is used?

I have recently bought Remus Headers and a titanium Akrapovic exhaust second hand and want to fit them both.
This should allow the lambda sensors, cat and the exhaust flappy valve thingy all to be removed.
Are there any other parts required for the complete exhaust system swap?
Could the original exhaust gaskets be used or are new gaskets needed?

The reason for the exhausting question above is a work colleague has a KTM RC8 but said his bike needs some loom / wiring bypass for the lambda sensors, is this required on a Twin Cam?

All constructive feedback appreciated. :thumb2

Cheers,

Rich.
 
I would try to have a second litre of oil available in case. Make sure to put 200ml back into the drive. You need a syringe to measure and refill. A bugger.
Gearbox is simple. Need spouted oil bottle.
Engine incl new filter is 4L. Fill the new filter b4 fitting.
 
I can confirm that 1 litre of Castrol 75w 90 longlife is enough for both G-box and FD. 180ml in the FD with a graduated syringe and the rest in the g-box till it overflows.
Have changed the oil in mine ('11 GSA) a number of times and am sure that the quality of gearchange has really benefitted from it. I've never tried the 75w 140 as I didn't realise it was an option, do you find it better than the 75w 90 Bryn?.
 
If you have the Remus headers with angled down pipes you can fit the Lambda sensors. But first disconnect under engine cylinders fit sensor connect electrics together and finally clip under cylinders. The leads are long enough if you unclip the connector from the engine.
 
Thanks for the info gents.

Very interesting Bryn and I'd like to know your thoughts, opinions and benefits from using the 75w / 140 Limited Slip gear oil and any others who have used this oil.

I didn't know Remus made different headers for the 1200!!
My Remus Headers have removable plugs to accommodate the lambda sensors but are there any benefits keeping the sensors, I thought it was better to remove the sensors?

On a few occasions I have had problems with the poxy flappy valve thingy seizing and Bahnstormers have removed the valve and unseized and lubed it under warranty however I did mention to Mike at Bahnstormers that I had trouble starting the bike again due to exhaust valve sticking again, possibly to me washing the bike and putting Nelly back in the garage.
I subsequently mentioned the ongoing valve issue to one of the service guys (Cody or someone?) who said he'd book my bike in to investigate while still within warranty and latterly Paul at an Alton Open Day but sadly nothing was done. :(
I didn't bother chasing this problem up anymore and now after washing the bike, I now go for a short ride 5 - 10 miles and lube the exhaust valve when I return home which to date, not given anymore problems.

I'd like to remove the flappy exhaust valve if possible with the Remus Headers.

As an aside, Ive owned my bike since new 2010 and have not received any recalls from BMW or Bahnstormers via post, email or telephone. Is this normal? Do I need to approach BMW or Bahnstormers regarding any recalls?

Please see attached a picture of my Remus Headers, hopefully it'll work.

ad603cc2c8b47f8840f042437cf91fd4.jpg
 
I believe that at one time 75/140 was the recommended oil for the diff... and having attended one of Mikeyboy's excellent Hexhead service tutorial days it was mentioned that 75/140 is also fine in the final drive, and the heavier weight oil is good if the ambient temperature is up and the diff is being 'worked'

So in other words... 75/90 synthetic is fine, 75/140 synthetic is also fine .. as the important bit is GL5 :thumb

Can't really notice any difference with the diff... but again I've read that 75/140 in the gear box makes for super smooth changes ;)

I reckon it does no harm to do regular diff and gearbox oil changes .... that's probably more important than viscosity
 
Thanks Bryn. [thumb]

Just ordered 2 x 1 litre Castrol Syntrax 75w / 140 Limited Slip gear oil.

Cheers,
 
Just to clarify ( and PM'd you) the limited slip diff oil doesn't mention use in the gearbox, just diffs... Syntrax 75/140 gearbox oil for the gearbox if you want to give it a go :thumb2

That's how I'm reading it unless anyone disagrees :rob
 
IIRC they used to specify a plain EP75W80 gear oil for the gearbox, then upped it to EP75W90 later such as Castrol Syntrax (SAF-XO). My suspicion is that it saves stocking many different oils and is a nice little earner for the dealers.

It can't do any harm to use Syntrax but the stuff is expensive. I only use it in my final drive, for the gearbox I have used some Fuchs Titan EP75W90 fully synth GL5 as its half the price and just as good.
 
Any comments concerning the Syntrax 75/140 limited slip diff oil? as I mentioned it states on the bottle 'for limited slip and standard diffs '

Might as well make this another 'oil thread ' :D
 
As I've just bought 2 litres of 'Limited Slip' oil which I'll use in the FD, I'd also like to know if its ok for the gearbox too?


Bryn,

I was under the impression that 'Oil Question Threads' were welcome here. ;) LOL.
 
Any info on any requirements for the standard exhaust system swap for Remus Headers (pictured) and BMW stamped titanium Akrapovic oval exhaust?
 
My understanding is you simply take the valve and drive motor off the bike and fit a Mk1 or Mk2 exhaust (Mk3 has a gap for flap valve). The Mk3 ECU will log a fault but it won't show on the display. If the motor is ever reconnected the fault will cancel.
 
I would try to have a second litre of oil available in case. Make sure to put 200ml back into the drive. You need a syringe to measure and refill. A bugger.
Gearbox is simple. Need spouted oil bottle.
Engine incl new filter is 4L. Fill the new filter b4 fitting.

I bought a pet water bottle, the type that fixes to the side of the cage and has a ball bearing feed at the outlet. This has a marked level up to 200ml on the side - removed the ball bearing and spout fits perfectly into the rear drive fill point.
 
My understanding is you simply take the valve and drive motor off the bike and fit a Mk1 or Mk2 exhaust (Mk3 has a gap for flap valve). The Mk3 ECU will log a fault but it won't show on the display. If the motor is ever reconnected the fault will cancel.

You can leave the motor in place (and connected), just remove the valve and its cables. ECU will still show an error if interrogated by a GS-911, but nothing on the dash.
 
I'am fairly sure the gearbox and diff will work the same way . You need an oil with good shear strength. The GL5 part is the most important part.
 
Originally Posted by Bin Ridin<br />
I would try to have a second litre of oil available in case. Make sure to put 200ml back into the drive. You need a syringe to measure and refill. A bugger.<br />
Gearbox is simple. Need spouted oil bottle.<br />
Engine incl new filter is 4L. Fill the new filter b4 fitting.
<br />
<br />
I bought a pet water bottle, the type that fixes to the side of the cage and has a ball bearing feed at the outlet. This has a marked level up to 200ml on the side - removed the ball bearing and spout fits perfectly into the rear drive fill point.<br/>

That's a good idea.
 
Not sure why you want to remove the O2 sensors. They don't do any harm. The only excuse I can think of is if your fitting a pcv or similar.
 


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