1200GS 04 Servosectomy advice please

[Kersidan]

Hi everyone.

1200GS 04 MY 2006 model 28k miles with the servo ABS system. I don't have any problems at the moment. I use my bike for a few longish continental trips per year. I'm thinking about doing away with the servo as a preventative measure as I don't want to find it's gone mid trip in the Pyrenees! I read somewhere that you could buy a 'kit' to do this? From Motoworks? Has anyone done this and got a description of what's needed?

Any help appreciated.

Mark

 

[JJH]

If it's not broken....... There is a way without any expense if you search on here I think it's one of Steptoe's threads. JJH

 

[Kersidan]

JJH, I know what you're saying re 'if it's not broke'.... but on the servo model if it does go the braking force is vastly reduced, not what you want on an Alpine pass. Hence my thoughts of a bit of preventative maintenance. I'll see what I can find on this forum. Thanks

 

[bigmadstu]

Did my old 04 a few years back, motorworks were very helpful. The rear brake setup uses OEM BMW parts from a non ABS bike. The front setup used a loopback adapter that motorworks had made specially for the job. Cost was roughly £100 for the bits and took me a couple of hours. I removed the servo unit retaining the PCB as it runs the speedo. The ABS warning light will flash permanently after doing this. ( Mine was anyways as the servo had failed completely and nearly put me through a hedge! ) I took the clocks to bits and painted over the LED to end the warning light. Had the bike for a few years after that with no issues. MOT test was not a problem.

 

[Bendy toy]

Is it not possible to repair the servos?

 

[JJH]

Not when they are not broken. JJH

 

[Speedy1959]

When I used to own a 2005 R1200GS a BMW mechanic told me that they cost a fortune to buy AND the spare units are drying up.
He advised I either sell the bike for a later one or (unofficially) have it modified.
There is quite a good YouTube video by that American mechanic (Chris Harris) on how to remove the electric servo..

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7xZMewBazMI&nohtml5=False

As you say the unit is very heavy and over complicated!!

 

[DrFarkoff]

Please stop showing that Muppet Harris!

He Over complicates the simplest things!

Do NOT cut any wires! Simply replumb the brake lines from front to front and back to back as per a non ABS bike

Remove the ABS unit and unscrew the Electronics box from the hydraulics bit and reconnect box to bike loom and Seal it and secure it some way

You retain your speedo and switches etc etc

The only problem is that your ABS lamps will do something But since I haven;t done a 1200 "Yet" I can comment on what it is that they do so you need tape on the inside of the glass or some method of obscuring the ABS lamps permanently

You can;t remove the bulbs as they are apparently board mounted LED's

Oh and remove the front ABS ring and sensor so that the MOT don;t fail you for inoperative ABS system

 

[bigmadstu]

Please stop showing that Muppet Harris!

He Over complicates the simplest things!

Do NOT cut any wires! Simply replumb the brake lines from front to front and back to back as per a non ABS bike

Remove the ABS unit and unscrew the Electronics box from the hydraulics bit and reconnect box to bike loom and Seal it and secure it some way

You retain your speedo and switches etc etc

The only problem is that your ABS lamps will do something But since I haven;t done a 1200 "Yet" I can comment on what it is that they do so you need tape on the inside of the glass or some method of obscuring the ABS lamps permanently

You can;t remove the bulbs as they are apparently board mounted LED's

Oh and remove the front ABS ring and sensor so that the MOT don;t fail you for inoperative ABS system

No wire cutting needed. I just separated the electronics section of the ABS module from the hydraulics, wrapped the open end in EPDM rubber to seal it, plugged it back in then bolted it back in position. To cure the fault light on the dash I took the cover off the clocks and painted over the LED. Had no problem getting an MOT with the ABS ring and sensor attached though I think removing them would be a good idea. Also hide the ABS button on the left handlebar switches somehow. ( I rubbed out the ABS wording with some fine sand paper. )

 

[Kersidan]

Thanks to you all for the advice. I'll ring Motoworks and see if they can get me the kit of bits that some of you have used.

Those of you who have done the modification, how did the brakes feel after mod compared to pre mod? Did you have to exert significantly more lever pressure for similar braking effect?

As I mentioned in my initial post I want to get this potential problem out of the way so it doesn't become an issue mid European trip.

Mark

 

[DrFarkoff]

You ONLY need to make up a Link pipe at the front to link out the steel ABS brake lines

The rear pipe "Should" reach

You do not need anything else

The rear brake is no where as powerful but develops a better feel after a few uses Maybe the servo is too powerful and glazes the pads a bit?

To be honest If it were me I'd change all the brake fluids and go for a couple of hundred mile trip prior to leaving It will only take an afternoon to remove the system if it become evident that you need it

My Sis and Hubby are just back from the Alps in their Crossdressers and Sis mentioned that she was glad of ABS on some of those cobbled corners she encountered

Just thinking out loud

Thanks to you all for the advice. I'll ring Motoworks and see if they can get me the kit of bits that some of you have used.

 

[Packer]

Those of you who have done the modification, how did the brakes feel after mod compared to pre mod? Did you have to exert significantly more lever pressure for similar braking effect?

I think that the early 1200's had the same callipers as the last of the (also servo) 1150's that I had. I really didn't notice much difference between the with and without servo in terms of effort when I removed mine. The brakes were much less "grabby" at low speed without servo so all round a good result with the only downside being the loss of the crude (comparatively) and intrusive ABS.

 

[Speedy1959]

The brakes were much less "grabby" at low speed without servo so all round a good result with the only downside being the loss of the crude (comparatively) and intrusive ABS.

My back is a 2009 and doesnt have the electric servo but does have ABS..
I have to admit they are EXTREMELY grabby at low speed and they seem to surge...
At say 20 mph or above they feel fine.
Coming to a standstill they are a pain in the ass.

 

[Steptoe]

You ONLY need to make up a Link pipe at the front to link out the steel ABS brake lines

The rear pipe "Should" reach

The rear pipe will not reach, it's completely different to an 1150. You need to buy the solid rear metal brake pipe for a non ABS bike. It's a simple replacement for the abs pipe. Push fit one end, screw fit the other. Costs about £25 from Bmw .

 

[paintman]

My abs light started flashing on my 04 1200 last year on Bakermans lost dog rally, because we were in off road I hoped its was mud on the sensors, but it was not to be, it was the dreaded abs failure. I had a couple of trips planned so took a chance and rode another 800 miles with the flashing light, my brakes worked perfectly during this time, although I was warned at any time that I might be left with residual braking.
This year I had to decide what to do, but finally after failing to find a suitable used abs unit and taking advice from Steptoe I invested in a new one from BMW, I just wanted my fantastic bike back as it was and the first unit did give twelve years good service.

 

[DrFarkoff]

Cheers Steppers I didn't know that

The rear pipe will not reach, it's completely different to an 1150. You need to buy the solid rear metal brake pipe for a non ABS bike. It's a simple replacement for the abs pipe. Push fit one end, screw fit the other. Costs about £25 from Bmw .

 

[Bendy toy]

My back is a 2009 and doesnt have the electric servo but does have ABS..
I have to admit they are EXTREMELY grabby at low speed and they seem to surge...
At say 20 mph or above they feel fine.
Coming to a standstill they are a pain in the ass.

My 2008 (same spec and 2009) has no such problems. Maybe your brakes need an overhaul or simply different spec pads. I'm not sure what you mean by "surging". Are the discs running true?

IMO the rear is over-braked by the linked system. It will chew a set of organic pads in under 4000 miles and the disc will soon look worn if you run road spec sinters. I would love to have less rear bias hence my try with organic pads.

 

[Kersidan]

Update and help please!

OK just done the servosectomy using a kit from Motorworks, all gone well. I have removed the servo unit but people say to unscrew the electronics part and plug this back in to retain speedo etc. But the unit is held together with security style torx screws. How do you separate the bits I need to retain?

Thanks for your help.

 

[Mr K]

Update and help please!

OK just done the servosectomy using a kit from Motorworks, all gone well. I have removed the servo unit but people say to unscrew the electronics part and plug this back in to retain speedo etc. But the unit is held together with security style torx screws. How do you separate the bits I need to retain?

Thanks for your help.

With security Torx bits?

 

[Kersidan]

Mr K, a simple answer and you could well be right. I'll look and try and get some!

Thanks