1200gs self servicing

[yoxi675]

I'm undertaking my 2004 12's 24k service myself and am wondering if there are any things to look out for. I have the REPROM disk and a good mechanical background.

i managed to get all the brake and clutch fluids and spark plugs changed as part of the deal when i bought the bike 12 months ago so effectively this service sould be a minor one?

one final question, does the 12 have a service warning/light and if so how and where can i get it re set. (don't want to spend on a gs911).

many thanks in advance

Chris

 

[BBB61]

No service light is fitted to the 2004 1200GS. I think these came in round about 2008.

Looks like the stuff you will need to change will be oil, oil filter, air filter, gearbox oil (if that wasn't done 12 months ago) and the usual adjustments and checks (valves, injector balance). I would advise you to change the final drive oil as well. Although there is no drain plug on the 2004 one's it can be done easily.

http://www.r1200gs.info/howto/reardrive.html

The clutch fluid shouldn't need changing for a long time ( I thought it was sealed for life, but I could be wrong) and the brakes will be the servo ones if you have ABS on the bike. If not then the brake fluid change is easy. If you have the servos then the brake fluid can be changed without too much difficulty.

 

[yoxi675]

cheers Bob.

the abs fluid was changed last August as i had read something on this forum re problems with stagnant fluid. many thanks for the link for the final drive oil change as that one has been at the back of my mind for some time.

now to open the box of frogs regarding which oils to use

 

[BBB61]

:
now to open the box of frogs regarding which oils to use

NOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOO!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

 

[Beemerman59]

The OEM brake pads may be getting a bit worn by now - I have just fitted new sets front & rear during my 24K service and went for Ferodo Platinum from Steptoe of this parish. Also fitted Iridium plugs which seem to be working well. The only standard service job I have yet to do is the alternator belt change which is a while away yet - everything else (on my 2008 GSA) has been quite straightforward. For my bike there's no service interval given for clutch fluid - it's sealed for life - until a seal or the clutch fails.

I did buy a GS911 though (secondhand from here) and it does make life a little easier balancing the throttle bodies and finding out any fault codes etc.

 

[cookie]

i thought the alternator belt was part of the 24K service.

 

[rudiemoto]

pop down will do gs911 work for a charge .....pizza

 

[Beemerman59]

i thought the alternator belt was part of the 24K service.

I thought it was 30K - will check the manual when I get home.

 

[yoxi675]

The OEM brake pads may be getting a bit worn by now - I have just fitted new sets front & rear during my 24K service and went for Ferodo Platinum from Steptoe of this parish. Also fitted Iridium plugs which seem to be working well. The only standard service job I have yet to do is the alternator belt change which is a while away yet - everything else (on my 2008 GSA) has been quite straightforward. For my bike there's no service interval given for clutch fluid - it's sealed for life - until a seal or the clutch fails.

I did buy a GS911 though (secondhand from here) and it does make life a little easier balancing the throttle bodies and finding out any fault codes etc.

I wasn't aware that the 911 could be used for balancing the throttle bodys. I assumed it was just a fault reader/diagnostic tool type of thing.

having just looked at the rear pads i'm guessing they will be just about ready for changing. anther item for the list.

 

[Beemerman59]

I wasn't aware that the 911 could be used for balancing the throttle bodys. I assumed it was just a fault reader/diagnostic tool type of thing.

having just looked at the rear pads i'm guessing they will be just about ready for changing. anther item for the list.

You can turn off/recalibrate the idle actuators - helps to balance the throttle bodies at low revs, but you still need a balancing tool such as a Carbtune or Twinmax. I also like to view the realtime display of the engine functions etc - shows everything working or not although I don't have a clue yet what some of the values actually mean

 

[Beemerman59]

i thought the alternator belt was part of the 24K service.

You're right - 40K Km's so thats 24K miles. Guess I better fit one this weekend then

 

[yoxi675]

I'd best put an alternator belt on the list as well. Getting expensive this home servicing lark

 

[leftofcentre]

You can turn off/recalibrate the idle actuators - helps to balance the throttle bodies at low revs, but you still need a balancing tool such as a Carbtune or Twinmax.

Dials or twinmax the best in my experience. i couldnt get a satisfactory outcome from the carbtune.

 

[Zigo]

One advice when changing the rear pads, check the guide pins on the floating caliper. Often wateringress will cause the pins to freeze up. The front one is usually the one to stick. Just remove the caliper assy (2 bolts) and pull the caliper and bracket apart, should move easily if ok. Clean and lubricate. I use anti-seize grease with moly (60%) which you will also need for the splines of the driveshaft after changing the oil in the FD.

 

[Beemerman59]

I changed my alternator belt this morning - used a combination of various tricks off this site and ADV rider to do it. The bike is a GSA so has all the crashbars in the way plus has ESA but neither affected the operation. I used the strip of plastic technique to lift the old belt off the upper pulley and some webbing strap to pull it off. Straightforward enough. To get the belt on I initially tried just using a wrench on the crankshaft nut but I couldn't quite get the wrench on properly with the belt in position and the belt kept slipping. So, off came the plugs, and with the bike in 6th gear I could use my foot to push the rear wheel just enough to get the belt on tighter whilst I held it in position with a finger. I could then use the wrench to keep the belt in position whilst rotate the crankshaft.

I would say that next time on a 24K service, as its a plug change anyway I would have this done in about 5 to 10 mins max. Who needs an £87 special tool anyways?

 

[G5RJO]

End float..

When its all opened up, set the rocker arm end float (search it on here, there's a Steptoe sticky somewhere).

Most BMW garage monkeys have never heard of it let alone reset it

Only takes an extra 10 mins but the difference on how the bike runs and sounds is unreal..... honest. Sounds like a new bike again and the mid range hunting goes away a fair bit.

Roger O.

 

[Steptoe]

I wasn't aware that the 911 could be used for balancing the throttle bodys. I assumed it was just a fault reader/diagnostic tool type of thing.

As said it recalibrates the idle motors, and turns them off so they don't interfer with a throttle body synch.

The latest software also does brake bleed/pressure tests, autoscan, adjustment/reset of exhaust flap servo motor, service/time resets, and can reset all adaptation values and much more.

And a Harmoniser is by far the best unit to use for throttle body synchronising.