1989 100GS Swingarm bearings - confused

[SeanW]

so, I'm in process of replacing a shagged driveshaft, and have got the swingarm out.

Gave it a good clean, and then had a look at bearings to see if they were ok/ might be worth replacing while swingarm is out.

Haynes manual seems to be talking tripe - in the same sentence it says the bearings are sealed for life and that you can pop the inner race out and grease the bearings.

They look to me like they are sealed - at least the outer facing side of each bearing has a black plastic cover covering the bearings.

On the inside face however there was plenty of evidence of grease having escaped on this side, plus since I applied degreaser to clean the swingarm up, some of it has made its way into the left side bearing, along with dirt, making a nice crunchy noise that wasn't there before.

All I really wanted to do was clean and regrease the bearings (if that was possible) or leave them alone if they were sealed bearings. But it looks to me as almost as if they are sealed on one side and not on the other, which I've never come across before. Unless the ineer seals are just completely crocked.

Can any of you clever people explain/advise/enlighten?

 

[Beemerboff]

If you mean the one at the gearbox end there is no definite answer- some have a blanking plate at the back and can be greased through the pin like the monos and twin shocks.

Some dont have a backing plate, and if you try to grease them through the pin you just end up filling the paralever- it takes about 4 1/2 lbs of grease from memory.

I wouldnt try and dismantle them, but I think the seal on the outside can be removed and a bit of grease worked in before replacing it.

The bearings at the tail end of the paralever have to be stripped to grease them.

 

[SeanW]

- it takes about 4 1/2 lbs of grease from memory.

...am replacing the bearings at the bevel box end - when I pulled off the rubber boot, a dozen bearing rollers fell out.

the cretin who owned it before me had been running it oblivous to the fact the bearings in the bevel box end UJ of the driveshaft had completed disintegrated - would imagine this may not have been healthy for the swingarm/bevel box pivot bearings

 

[SeanW]

...does anyone know a trick for removing these bearings?

I don;t happen to own an internally expanding bearing puller...

 

[colint]

Is it bearings marked 4 that you want to remove?

 

[SeanW]

sorry, am being a bit unclear

I'm replacing all of them

have had no probs removing the ones marked 4

it;s the ones marked 11 that look a bit trickier to remove cleanly - though I suppose if you just muller and remove the bearing innards there's probably a bit more room to lever out the outers?

 

[Voyager]

its the ones marked 11 that look a bit trickier to remove cleanly - though I suppose if you just muller and remove the bearing innards there's probably a bit more room to lever out the outers?

Hmmmm Its a while since I replaced mine.

If I recall, I removed the taper-roller inner, then used a socket on an extention bar through the outer track on one side to knock out the opposite track.

It worked for me.

Failing that, I have used a 'rawlbolt' to grip the outer track, then made a slide hammer out of a piece of threaded stud. A deep nut will just connect the two threaded ends. A bridging piece would be better if you have the facilities.

Then use a large socket as the 'hammer', whacking up against a large washer and nut on the end of the stud.

Like this (you will need two nuts on the rawlbolt in order to tighten it):

Hope this helps

Bob.

 

[(RIP) Arkwright]

Warm it up and the bearing will drop out, Aluminium expands more than steel, that's how gearboxes and bevel drives are done!

 

[Beemerboff]

If you dont have plate 17- mine didnt- get a couple, then you can grease the bearings through the pin like the other bikes

 

[SeanW]

Wow - lots of helpful ideas there to get cracking on.

Am tempted to add the grease retainers, though Haynes says some dubious stuff about the swingarm breathing thru the bearings ?

 

[Beemerboff]

The oil filled monolevers don't need a breather , so why should a dry paralever?.

If it really bothers you it wouldnt be a big job to fit a vacuum take off barb and a bit clear plastic hose up under the seat somewhere, put it on the bottom and it will drain out any oil that gets in too,
I have fitted one to my GS, but haven't had a chance try it out yet ----

 

[fritz]

...am replacing the bearings at the bevel box end - when I pulled off the rubber boot, a dozen bearing rollers fell out.

the cretin who owned it before me had been running it oblivous to the fact the bearings in the bevel box end UJ of the driveshaft had completed disintegrated - would imagine this may not have been healthy for the swingarm/bevel box pivot bearings

Sean - how much play did that produce, If there is no noticeable play at the pivot (felt through wheel when rocking at 9 & 3 o'clock, but not at 12 & 6) I'd leave the pivot bearings alone. My shaft was on verge of tearing apart it was so worn a few years back, but no effect on pivot bearings (or swing arm). Never replaced these on my 89 model in 100,000 miles even though been through 2 shafts and three or four paralever strip-downs - just unlucky withe new PD I guess

PS if you do want to do pivots I was recomended to change bearings AND pivots as I replaced the bearings alone just a few thousand miles ago, and they've gone so seems pivots were at falut, so another £50, but I'd rather have the piece of mind as dissassembly of the paralever is not a job that top of my list. Motorworks had to order in a pivot from BM as they had no stock, but all arrived within 3 days.

I also bought a 12mm Allen 'socket' as the left pivot takes some serious force to undo, scaffold pole at the ready!

 

[Voyager]

I also bought a 12mm Allen 'socket' as the left pivot takes some serious force to undo, scaffold pole at the ready!

Heat it up before you try to undo it . . . . I shattered my 12mm Allen socket when I tried to undo it cold

Bob.

 

[SeanW]

Thanks for all advice gents. Have no choice about replacing bearings at bevel box end - they had disintegrated.

Tried the home made slide hammer technique today on rh s/a bearing. Just ripped the inner track out; you need a washer that's exactly the right size as there is only about 1mm of the outer track visible from the inside of the s/a. I tried with a 30mm washer but you would need 32mm or perhaps a fraction more. Anyway, i found you can just about knock the outer track out with a drift (used heat as well). The lh bearing would be a different matter altogether as you can't access the inner side with a drift. Think you would need either the exact size washer arrangement as above or some kind of professional internal expanding extractor.

Quite like the idea of fitting the grease retainers to make the bearings greasable but as the lh s/a bearing feels ok and would be much trickier to remove think for now I'm just going to stick with replacing the rh side.

 

[Rob Farmer]

I have a puller from www.Cycleworks.net - works a treat.

 

[fritz]

...am replacing the bearings at the bevel box end - when I pulled off the rubber boot, a dozen bearing rollers fell out.

the cretin who owned it before me had been running it oblivous to the fact the bearings in the bevel box end UJ of the driveshaft had completed disintegrated - would imagine this may not have been healthy for the swingarm/bevel box pivot bearings

Aha - assumed it was the bearings from the shaft itself that had broken up.

Out of interest, with the pivot bearing gone was there a lot of play at rear wheel when all connected up?

Interested to know in comparison to the play I have (guess about 1mm at edge of wheel), with bearings intact (as far as I can tell).

Lot of this about used to 'just' be failed shafts

 

[MattW]

These are good but debatable whether it's worth buying one just for this job:

http://www.teng.co.uk/ak714-sealey-blind-bearing-puller-set-5pc_9630_pd.asp

On the other hand, like a lot of tools they can be surprisingly useful once you've got one (for example wheel bearings - expand the collet inside the bearing and use a drift on the end of the collet).

Depends how big a tool junkie you are....

 

[SeanW]

Fritz- the driveshaft AND The pivot bearings were wrecked. Probably connected, as I think the bike had been ridden extensively while these problems existed, though it probably started with one or the other.

to be honest I never looked closely at the play - it was making a hideous enough racket to know the driveshaft had gone. It was only when I got the bevel box off that it became apparent the pivot bearings had had it too.

Matt - yes, I'd like one of those. If they were about £100 cheaper.

 

[Archie Adv]

Fritz- the driveshaft AND The pivot bearings were wrecked. Probably connected, as I think the bike had been ridden extensively while these problems existed, though it probably started with one or the other.

to be honest I never looked closely at the play - it was making a hideous enough racket to know the driveshaft had gone. It was only when I got the bevel box off that it became apparent the pivot bearings had had it too.

Matt - yes, I'd like one of those. If they were about £100 cheaper.

Heat up the housing with a hot air gun and they all practically fall out..... they really don't need much effort with the mallet...!!

 

[Archie Adv]

Heat up the housing with a hot air gun and they all practically fall out..... they really don't need much effort with the mallet...!!

If your stuck and need some help give me a shout... I don't live too far away from you. PM me. Archie